ivan

the dex! and the nitro!

yeah, i was confused by this too - isn't it still legal to bivy sans permit on the rocks at the far end of colchuck lake, below d-tail? excellent kick-save after the cbr wave-off though

whiskey counts as food, right?

mcD 1/4 lb's w/ cheese mike n' ikes (or dykes n' kykes as my quasi-jew friend refers to them) anything from the lil'debbie line: oatmeal creme pies, stars, brownie, etc. hero pies (apple flavor for breakfast!) instant grits n' pre-cooked bacon corn-nuts - every flavor, especially salsa

dude, they clearly forgot the most basic of items when on k2 - THE NITRO! ...dude

most climbs at beacon rock are trad but have bolted belays - matt's point is a good one though, failing protection will fuck you far more frequently than failing anchors, though the latter option does at least get both guys in on the fun.

goddamit, i need to get some rogain for my face or sumthang 'cuz the handlebar mustache is the shit!

anyone wanna climb at beacon on friday?

get better man! and in the meantime, be sure never to inquire of layton "did you summit?" unless you're prepared to deal w/ a big angry meanie! i keep hoping none of this mortality shit applies to me...

Thanks for getting that for me! I'll trade a smoke! Stewart didn't you get real hurt last year using cams where you should be using nuts?

sounds great - did you bring a gps so you'd feel confident on descending in clouds if need be?

good article and writeup and the rescue folks conclusions are spot on - i can't think of another place on hood that more justifies wearing a brain bucket then the upper part of the spur - i hope your family soon forgets this tragedy and remembers just the good times that live on in your memories

man, looks fun! but why was there still pbr left to be drunk in the morning?

if only i wasn't getting on a plane to colorado... dude, go do something new - have you done bluebird? the upper pitch of flying swallow (you can rap in from grassy ledges)? wrong gull? there'll all as good or better then tropical smiff crap and w/n you're abilities.

what details do you need for flight time? the first pitch is basically a pin-ladder and is easy as an aid climb but crazy lichen-ated currently - the second pitch i haven't done but has a lot of shrubbery and just as much grungy-fungy - that second pitch looks very fun and i plan on going back w/ a pair of etriers sometime soon hopefully w/ ben - we'd probably replace the rusty-ass, american-death triangle laden anchor that currently exists below it's crux roof

wow - very cool looking peak, kinda slesse-ish - how long/hard is the route? and just flipping ya shit at beacon, esse - i was mostly amazed i could verify yer visage at such a distance - you pull so hard these days though i wanna take you w/ me so you can show me how to do these classics proper! go do ground zero dammit!

that's the pitch i do all the time since it has no choss on it and is very low angle - you can skip the kinda thin and steep scary third pithc of yw by taking the ramp pitch of the se corner about 3/4 of the way up, then cut right just before the grassy ledges and traverse over and up to the smoke ledge and no, i don't climb the incredibly contrived 10a move there on the 4th pitch as it's very silly when you can step 4 feet sideways and avoid it - the funnest move is the one above that, above the pin in the slab - the first time i did it this season i found meself momentarily confused, hanging by my hands w/ my feet scrambling in space - meow!

dude, don't fuck w/ me when i'm in the mood to use a word, da'lright?!? well, i'll go to college and i'll learn some big words and i'll talk real loud goddamn right i'll be heard you'll remember all the guys that said all those big words he must've learned in college the only word i can remember learning in college was "ubiqitious," which was only because it was used so goddamn ubiqitiously! feeling irrascible yet, huh, punk?

Are you saying you have free soloed Young Warriors? All of it? not that i'm some badass soloist (your boy jaime is way stronger/bolder than me), but yeah - the top pitches i do all the time, the first one i do occasionally w/ a rope to rap off, and the judge dread pitch only once when i was being a little whiney bitch about how life was working out (no need to talk sense to me, the experience got me good n' grounded and now is somethign to laugh about when armed w/ a rope) i don't understand why everyone isn't soloing the first pitch of dod's jam - wow, what a solid good time that is and totally sane/reasonable.

dude, don't fuck w/ me when i'm in the mood to use a word, da'lright?!?

forgot me favorite line from navigator, the one which somehow made my whole bottle dissappear and the short nap commence "they never drank water, but whiskey by pints and the shanty towns rang w/ their songs and their fights!"

aww bill, i don't spend no time on my writing - i just have some drinks'n'smokes'n start throwing all the adjectives, invectives and insults i can summon from the ether out into teh interwebs my vote for the first 10 tr would be laytons talking turd thang

there's no sense getting bent out of shape over the butts- the trail gets a lot of traffic from rednecks down there to have sex w/ their cousins anyhow - besides, wintering at ozone or godforbid rocky butte develops ones tolerance of trash - the shit that pisses me off (from y-day) are giant attack dogs blockading the trail on the way out while snarling and barking and generally demonstrating the size and attitude required to tear my throat out

did this w/ beaconben and jeff thomas the day after i saw the irrascible john frieh doing it the day before - first time i'd done the route w/ a rope in a long time - somehow found a completely new way to do the move above the traverse on pitch 2 that made the whole thing seem much, much easier - no new bolts required, though moving hte old anchor to the defacto anchor site makes sense

don't blame da butts on me joe, i actually stuff 'em in my pocket so i can smell like a hobo the rest of the day we even managed to find all the beer cans we threw down last night too!