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ivan

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Everything posted by ivan

  1. josh n' i spent our whole jeff trip channeling this tune "you n' me, getting lewd, w/ the food, if that's what you're into"
  2. where is this again? how far from da 'couve?
  3. a cwaaaazy solo for sure
  4. if you do the left variation of the route, you can leave all the rock gear, plus all but 1-2 picketts and maybe 3 screws behind.
  5. jeff from the road deeeeeeeep snow in the woods jeff from around sentiniel hill? a lot of up and down and annoy-ness here strong winds on the approach day - cool lenticular around hood the route from across the way - note the scrumcious rimmed-up summit pinancle on the far right ahhh, it ain't easy be'n a pimp - wine n' smokes n' the sun toolz these guys will eat out of your hand, and peck out your eyes unless you throw snowballs at them! moon-set on the morning of the climb - and no, it ain't photoshopped! looking down on jeff park - lakes just starting to show up the dog routes of hood n' adams josh's feet went to shit, so i set off to solo the route yummmy crevasse below! traversing above the 'schrund - a fall here would get you out of paying your taxes next year the landscape around camp settled 12 inches in 2 days - finally a haze blew in and the death-by-solar-rays diminished as the sun-rings formed
  6. nice! and jealous too - i tried like hell to talk my partner into doing francis after denali but he just wouldn't budge from his wine-bottle!
  7. yes, they took my to court over it, though i don't know if it was the worst "raking" imaginable - basically i just bought the pass before i showed up, gave it to the prosecutor, and he sent me home - i did miss a full day of work over it though, but that was mostly spent in a park drinking now i practice guerilla terrorism and dismantle/destroy every sign i think i can get away w/ - gives you a reason to carry a saw and wrenches
  8. road ends about a mile from the trailhead
  9. Trip: Mt Jefferson - Pimp Fest on the Jeff Park Date: 6/19/2008 Trip Report: spent 2 days in the vicinity of oregon's neglected step-child - shame she's so overlooked as overall it's a much manlier mtn than hood - figured, as a good uva alum, i'd run out of excuses not to do my founders namesake - have always laughed and derided the tr's of folks doing this in summer so figured this was the ideal time - sick, sick skiing all over the place, if only i could ski - tree wells 10 feet deep in jeff park - out w/ pimp-master joshk, back from a long hiatus studying mandarin chinese and tantric masturabting techniques in tulsa and tibet, respectively. the jeff park glacier is steeeeep, and very much like a snowcone at the moment. the most notable parts of the climb are the slogtacular hike in, currently remarkably annoying given the snowpack, and the uber-direct descent strait down whitewater creek that we cooked up once our supply appeared in danger of being kicked in just a few hours - holy hell this was a fun way to walk out! 40 foot sump holes in the creek eventually giving way to raging rapids and waterfalls. at one point in the vertical forest i slipped on ice and began accelerating towards a sodden demise when a perfectly placed sapling hit me just where the good lord split me (so says the poet) - don't think i've ever had such a hematoma in so unusual place ('cept that one sweet, sweet summer evening in kansas city, so many moons ago) fantastic trip - didn't see another soul thursday to saturday - came home and got drunk at a kids b-day party and slept on the floor while being treated like a human pinata - good times pix to follow if i can get motivated Approach Notes: snow x 30000000
  10. not so early that it's too dark to make certain you're in the right place but not so light that everything but the kitchen sink's comign down on top of you
  11. no shit
  12. i didn't let myself go there until after i came back from the mountain, and only then after a pitcher or 4 at the west rib
  13. i solo at crags and in the alpine regularly, but generally either on things i've done roped before or that are supposed to be easier than 5.8. i find soloing to be tremendously fun and confidence building, not to mention occasionally scary - soloing is kinda like regular climbing X 10. soloing routes like the se corner at beacon is just an incredible expereince that can't be reproduced w/ a partner.
  14. sounds like i'm going to mt jefferson thursday ya'll - enjoy yer ersatz alpinismo!
  15. might could make it thursday - currently hoping my partner will rally from his recent alaska trip and go do liberty ridge w/ me starting htat day though - if not then jefferson, but if my parnters fall through on both fronts i'll just crag thursday and will be in attendance for the sick-film-fest!
  16. soloed it back in the winter - the coulior is easy, the face is very exposed but probably a lot easier when not covered in light snow and ice
  17. i'm outta school after tomorrow and can crag most any day i'm not recreating w/ the fambily or roaming up north - pm any day you're interested - i rarely have a clue what the hell i'm doing more than a day or 2 out
  18. nice - looks like it opened on the 3rd - teh interwubs werk grate!
  19. anyone have any clues on how much longer till the road opens?
  20. me n' josh's trip report of climbing the ne butt and descending the doug direct found here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=484182 it contains stellar writing and hustler-magazine quality phots of the route and even a well annotated image of doug's direct
  21. WTF?!?!? Are you just an asshole, or what? i am, but perhaps you missed the context? - poster before said its common for folks who engage in a dangerous occupation to discuss the details of another's disaster in such a way as to reassure themselves that similiar things couldn't happen to them - i was agreeing. i prefer to think of myself as immortal and incapable of error, though i fear in the back of my mind i'm just as susceptible as the unfortunate folks in this disaster.
  22. That is because the ones that are currently being freed are freed for a reason. i don't care how pretty your flag is or how hot your bitches are on tv, if you detain me for 5 years w/ no trial and torture the shit out of me, i'm going to try to kill you and everyone who looks like you if'n i ever get out. Then you will spend the rest of your life in Gitmo. See how it works? fine - and in this hypothetical situation, where i'm innocent yet imprisoned and abused for life, i'm certain that all my relations and friends will be similiarily motivated to do harm to you and yours - are you going to lock up the whole innocent world? hey, i have no problem w/ locking up bad guys forever if they are in fact bad dudes - trials are the way civilized societies go about determing folks are bad right? and not after the damage has been done, 5 years after the fact. seems to me if you take guy on the battlefield who's been shooting at you, and you're choice is between imprisoning him w/o trail and just shooting him then and there, assuming you caught him guilty as hell, you oughta just shoot the motherfucker as that is the least hypocritical of the two options.
  23. That is because the ones that are currently being freed are freed for a reason. i don't care how pretty your flag is or how hot your bitches are on tv, if you detain me for 5 years w/ no trial and torture the shit out of me, i'm going to try to kill you and everyone who looks like you if'n i ever get out.
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