ivan

i seem to recall the belayer could actually get into a cave just above the infamous chimney while belaying the next pitch above - a good thing too, since you're right, it's stupid chossy - still, what a fantastic route, eh? the setting is just spectacular...

almost did it last week after doing bluebird w/ denalidave - he had to home pretty soon though and i'm still unclear as to how to get back down or walkoff after doing riverside, so we did a simul-solo of the corner, after which i got arrested by The Man - turns out that doing riverside probably woulda worked out better for me! anyhow, what is the best way for finishing off that climb? i can't see an anchor to lower off of, and the upper part looks stupid overgrown and i've about had it w/ fucking around in the upper amphitheatre after nearly killing kev and a couple other folks last fall...

dude, bug, the drug thing is what created the gangs in the first place! it is their driving engine - after the gangs reached walmart size though they, like any other business, figured they needed to diversify and so they expanded into other lucrative black-market ventures, like kidnapping - get rid of the drug engine though and the police corruption will dissappear (well, at least it'll just be that sweet corporate-take-over-of-government kinda corruption that every red-blooded american can get behind) - kidnapping is not going to be so profitable on its own that you'll have these monster criminal organizations powerful enough to buy off an entire nations law enforcement but again, drugs make the baby jesus cry...

Are you going to try to free pipedream? are you confusing me w/ some sort of free-climbing hardman?!? i'll free what i can and aid/french the rest. have you done it?

it wasn't an X when i did it, but then maybe all the rock that i was holding up that one nut has flaked away now? it's actually a really interesting rock formation there at the chimney - some kind of delicate, shiny patina of rock that contacted the underlying gneiss and has mostly flaked off now

exactly - but america knows that it makes the baby jesus cry when jay and silient bob smoke a joint, so for that, we must destroy the whole fucking 3rd world how much longer will this unfathomable prohibition last?

i can't see gustav helping the gop - it seems a direct hit on the big easy would likely destroy the town all over again, and the current gov will take huge criticism for not having fixed the goddamn levees despite the katrina disaster - true, it might well be the fault of the local/state gov, but the perception of incompetence of the reps at the national level will be all that matters

if you can't find one, i'd recommend soloing the route - the only sketch part is the shitty chimney, but you'll need to have a rope for the raps on the escape anyhow, and you can just skip the chimney by rapping into the gully nearby it wish i could go - it's a climb worth repeating every year, no doubt! don't miss the fantastic bivy on the slabs just beside the glacier, just above the chimney!

tvash's curse is that he's articulate and fucking funny, but surronded by nit-wit-half-fuck-breed's like meself

one who suffers (badly) from logorrhoea?

do you have to break a law to get fucked by the police?

the same number have died in office of natural causes (4), and depending on how you want to look at it, many more probably died prematurely (within a few years) after leaving office, likely do to the stresses involved in the job (wilson and lbj surely qualify)

maybe i'll avoid epic'ing on saturday night again and actually get to see the slideshow?

hoping like hell that this wicked head/chest cold gets gone by tuesday so i don't have to start the year teaching w/o a voice hoping to climb pipedream or some-other similiar silly line at beacon on monday

i took 40$ and shiny beads n' firewater for trading w/ any redmen we might've passed along the way...

the ne butt is an order of magnitude cooler and comes w/ the sweetest bivy i've yet had in the n cascades (just above the "5.4" (ha!) chimney)

maybe i'll even be able to show early enough this year to compete?

you missed out by skipping hte granite staircase - truly a very cool formation! was that orange plastic tiger still up at the summit?

man, sounds like the brown bears are comign out in force these days 'round cascade pass! ne butt of j'berg in the dark sounds wicked fun

at least the homo huddle won't feel quite so homo for them wierd story - these ones always piss me off b/c they so rarely seem to have sensible explanations in the end

monday

the french finally decided to guillotine robespierre after he appeared on a giant paper-mache mountain as a greek god of reason

tina turner why the fuck not?

i don't have ball-nutz - off the start you have a pin practically at the same level as the anchor, then a sketchy 00 placement, a quick free move to okay feet, then 2 aid-nuts to a good pin - from there it's just plain wacky for 15-20 feet - i can't imagine free-climbing it, even though there's some stemming to be had, b/c the pro is so marginal - i haven't used ball nuts much but the one's i've seen don't look like they'd have fit - it feels very contrived NOT to step over into the sweet handcrack on bears in heat for that 20 foot section where the dutchman stays dangerously thin when you can be sinking gold and blue camelots, no?

the ptarmigan's a "hiking route?" the article says they lost their other gear a tuantaun could be a key piece of rescue equipment