ivan

if summer hadn't suddenly come to a crashing conclusion today...

I got it I got it: "Tool Festival" but then you'll have a bunch of scary looking dudes w/ tatoos showing up hmm...but i bet marcus will be there either way...

i've been doing my bit - ground zero and pipedream are all spruced up (though they certainly could use some additional brushing to deal w/ the lichen) - if they don't get traffic though they won't stay that way though, and that's the problem, especially since the damn rock closes all winter/spring

WTF? How'd they think sumo wrestlers could get so fat?

pretty much the norm at most crags it seems - smith is that way for sure - not really my cup of tea, but then i usually spend most of my time doing retarded things for which there are never lines...

labor day What does a holiday have to do with lack of parenting? don't we have this conversation every couple of months? my tradition for years has been to climb on labor day to get my head straight for the first day of school the day after - and yes, i was home in time for dinner/bath/bedtime stories ("borris and bella" kicks ass!)

labor day

that wasn't rain - that was jim spraying his prostrate-enhanced old-man piss all over you from 10 stories up

what's a chute?

big stoke to denalidave and rope-gun nate for doing this route proper-style 2day! i'd have dug *seconding* it

i do kinda like at the moss infested lower ptiches below the rooves as the "blue collar" approaches though, and fighting like a drunken man through them, scared shitless, serves to make the money shit up high all the more sublime

tasty!

nice! that east side route seems pretty well-traveled now, but i wouldnt' want to go down it w/o a rope though - i'd feel damn scared not having the ability to bail back down the route too...

if you decide to swap out the anchor at the top of pipedream, joe, be sure to change out the other anchor 30 meters lower and halfway over to jensens - i thought about stopping there first until i got even w/ and got a good look at it!

Trip: Beacon Rawk - Windsurfer/Pipedream Date: 9/1/2008 Trip Report: great day at the big b - taste of fall in the air - lotza folks in the house - jimmy o and fighting the Man - warmed up on little wing n' jills - first time climbing w/ moof, a good guy and hella patient! spent far too much time laying seige to pipedream - pulled the first pin on the traverse off the ledge out w/ my fingers, just by touching it - the next next pin and 1/4 inch bolt held, but rightly belong in the goddamn smithsonian pipedream took a long, long time as an aid climb - typical beacon story for a route that hasn's seen traffic in god knows how long - lots of gardening and cleanign and now i'm blind - 160 feet is a looooong pitch - it's all clean now 'cept a giant blackberry bush just below the less-than-inspiring anchor (get at it joe!) - i was frustrated the last 10 feet as i was out of bigish gear and was contending w/ the demon bush and a sloping ledge that was 120% 1000 year old fern - my one fall on the route came 3 feet below the anchor - a nut blew as i aided through the thorns and i took a nice long ride of 30 feet or more - enjoyed getting to free climb back through that section, which would be classic if it wasn't such a motherfucker to get to - eschewed the topout to the trail and did a double rope rap back to the anchor at windsurfer my first time using hooks! the giant eagle talon worked great as both a cleaning tool and sod-sticker. a fantastic end to my summer and now it's back to school in the morning, but at least i didn't spend all day dreading it! my carharts resembled a dali painting by days end from the kaladioscope of lichen colors nature hate crime again! and will the complete stepphenwulf fall by my gumby hands on saturday? time will tell... :) Gear Notes: x3 .5, .75, 1, 2 x2 3 lotza brassies (key) x3 aliens x2 sets of nuts Approach Notes: moist

i'm there - spent the day cleaning out and aid-fucking pipedream - all good now except the gianormus blackberry bush that's conviently located just under the craptacular anchors at the 160 mark - took a giant screamer right there, just 3 feet from the anchor and got to discover that the lower 40 feet is indeed a fine free climb, w/ the benefit of a tr

hmm...going out there right now...maybe that'll be on the block after pipedream? was looking at doing that last week after the dutchman but noted it was brushy. flying swallow doesn't need much work at all, but if you were to clean the last pitch of flight time, that'd be rad (and check out the anchor there at the same time, as from a column away it looks like a death trap currently) never clean the first 20 feet of any of those roof routes! that's were the best of those pure adrenaline holy-fuck-i'm-gonna-die moments are to be had out at beacon!

alright then, all the sad, psychotic fucks who got into climbing as an alternative to suicide - please raise your hands!

that about covers it for me! good shit, kij!

good to see that in sailing, as in climbing, it's critical to have snazzily colored action suits!

good luck - don't forget the tr! or doug's direct, for that matter...

I agree with mythosgrl.... i totally disagree w/ the both of you - what a boring story so far! and that last pic, god! wtf? you couldn't free that?!? so when do we get to see/hear the next part? when? when? when?

which part did you find the most spooky matt?

can you please include a dictionary on your next tr so i can understand the jargon? sounds awesome - if only i didn't hate the sea, and everythign in it!

i was talking about mexico and parts south - can't argue w/ your evaluation of their sad histories, but i don't think it's much different from our own - the rich fucking the poor is one of the great themes of human history, no? still, the international prohibition of drugs has lowered the whole shooting match a couple circles of hell further down.