Alpinfox

Isn't it true some don't have this stamp... especially the older ones? Yes. Some of the older ones have date of manufacture stamped on the TOP of the trigger bar. So I have a couple questions about this whole deal that I have kept silent about until now. 1) How did that guy on rc.com happen to be taking rapid frames/sec pictures of the fall and how did he happen to have the faulty alien immediately backed up by some other cam? Chance? 2) How did all the defective aliens happen to have a dimple on the bulb at the connection point? Chance? There is something weird going on.

HEAR HEAR! Happy birthdays guys!

Alaska has just about the densest concentration of active volcanoes in the world. The Aleutian islands and SW Alaskan Penninsula are pretty much a continuous chain of volcanoes. See lower map below. Red dots are active volcanoes.

Not quite sure what you are talking about here CBS. Selectable markers? i.e. toxin-resistance genes to simplify identification of transgenic clones? If so, yes that is a very common practice. I'm feeling pretty all of the sudden. Gotta go.

Wasn't that hypothesis already proven? Yes. Repeatedly. This is nothing new. I've made flourescent mice. It's pretty routine actually. And CBS is wrong. Just because you can express gene A does NOT mean you can express gene B.

Nice broken link there Olympia Climber.

Me thinks someone is confusing his Hoffmans. Albert Hofmann . Abbie Hoffman

A few links: The "OH MY GOD Bisphenol-A WILL KILL US ALL" side The "everything is fine. We care about your health and would never do anything to harm you becuase we love you, dear consumer. Now go watch some TV" side Here is my take home message: Don't worry about this one bisphenol-A thing. Yes, it is probably bad for you, but you can make other changes in your life that will have a much bigger positive impact on your health than not drinking from a nalgene. Namely: stop smoking. Drink in moderation. Avoid prepacked, "enriched", and highly-processed foods. Eat organic, whole, fresh, and varied food as much as availability and your budget allow. Drink lots of water (preferably from a glass vessel). Get lots of exercise. Spend more time in clean environments (clean air and water) such as the North Cascades. Spend less time spraying on cc.com.

ya, but can you find a good deal on a Revelation? I sure did.

Link

Pretty good deal on good "all-around" rope. Mammut 10mmX60m $122

"Designed to be the über statement for true hard-core outdoor enthusiasts" Good Deals on Eldo Clothing Some OK deals on LaSportiva closeout footwear

Actually, maybe it was "West Chimney 5.6!!!" If so, that is hands down the hardest 5.6 I've ever done. But I think it was "Drawstring 5.7".

Both Deflowered and Leaping Leana are challenging for 5.6, but they aren't that bad. I didn't think LL was that bad at all, just a little run out at the beginning. Deflowered you just have to make about three chimney thrutches and then it's easy. You guys are weak sauce! That "5.7" offwidth that MisterE led last year on the west side of (intersection rock I think?)- now THAT was hard!

Index. 70min from downtown Seattle. Guidebook By the way, there is no need to post the same question in three different places on this website.

...except for the Apollo moon landing of course. LINKERATION

Ice melts under pressure you dope. A sharp angle in the ice isn't going to cut your rope. I disagree. Ice isn't going to melt due to pressure in the time it takes to catch a fall. That said, I don't think the "V" point on a V-thread is likely to cut cord, especially under the low forces of a rappel, and probably not even while holding a leader fall. Sharp ice edges are brittle and will break; I think that is the more important consideration than melting in the few msec it takes for a fall force to be applied to the ice. Sharp ice edges are a good thing to avoid with ropes. I wouldn't want to jug a rope running over a sharp edge of hard glacial ice for example. When I'm rapping from a V-thread, I back up the rappel with an unweighted screw or two for all of the climbers but the last and then clean them when the last person raps. Supposedly V-threads are stronger if you let them air out a bit (refreeze) after you drill them. AlpineDave told me that one.

Why would you stay in a hostel for $27/night/person when you can stay in a hotel (Rocky Mtn Ski Lodge in Canmore for example) for $60/night? Just get a hotel room. Cheaper (if you have 3+ people). Better (privacy, hot tubs, sauna, security for expensive gear). When I was there in late November/early December, the hotels were pretty deserted and the management was willing to haggle on the price. I don't think we ever paid more than $60/night. Or you could camp. That said, the Rampart Creek Hostel at the foot of Mt. Wilson on the Icefields Parkway is really nice (has sauna) and you can't beat the commute to Lady Wilson's Cleavage, Polar Circus, Weeping Wall, etc. Keep in mind that American Alpine Club members get the ACC rate.

Unknown climber laybacks () through the perfect jams of "Leaping Leana"; Locomotion Rock. Sweet 5.6: Alpinfox dangles like a Wu Li Master. 5.10a my ass: Sunsets are pretty:

Did you try to communicate with the lower party while you were rapping past them? "Hey dude, we are going to be directly below you for a few minutes while we rap off; could you wait before climbing again so that we don't get creamed by some ice?" The fact is that the easily accessible ice resources in the PNW are so limited that crowding, and therefore these sorts of accidents, are very likely. It's only with good communication and judgement by all parties that they will be avoided. Your safety is your responsibility (not some supposedly inexperienced other party's). You need to speak up if you don't feel safe.

I feel terrible about this. Not climbing or skiing today is going to totally ruin my two week trip to JTree which starts on Monday. Really, I feel awful. Just awful.

So what is the scoop on Ainsworth? Is it WI5? Got a picture? I don't have a guidebook for Oregon Ice (does one even exist)?

Can someone post a picture of great Ainsworth Falls? Here is a pic of Ainsworth State Park I found: And what is "The Big Daddy"? Multnomah? I found this pic on the web. I don't think it is recent. Anybody climbed that ice? caption: "Mosier Syncline, near Bingen, Washington"

He ain't bullshittin'. That's some weird wild stuff.