Alpinfox

I climbed NF almost exactly a month ago. The entire bushwack traverse was melted out then, so it probably still is. You won't get to snow until you get to the base of the glacier. That bushwack would SUCK with skis on your pack. I recommend you ski up the Sulphide Gl. Good luck.

Here is my design:

What does "posted" mean?

It's "Denali". Thanks.

I have a little different opinion here. I climbed that route in mid-June a couple of years ago and I didn't think the coulior was very difficult. The toughest part for me was being way up on the ridge and watching cloud after cloud come zooming up the south face and wondering if we were going to get caught in a storm with no quick escape. Plus we had a lot of snow on the ridge, so the traverse wasn't trivial; we belayed most of it. I guess the snow on the ridge is gone now, but just keep in mind it takes as long to get down the ridge as it does to go up. Here is my TR: June 16&17, 2001 Partner – A.S. Route Description in “Selected Climbs in the Cascades” Steep approach on primitive trail with several stream crossings, glacier crossing, steep snow couloir (40-50 degrees), and 8 pitches of exposed climbing (up to 5.6). Left trailhead (3200’) at ? Arrived at high Boston Basin camp (6400’) at 3:30pm Talked with group of three descending. They claimed they reached 200’ from summit via west ridge and turned around due to low visibility and snow on route. We didn’t see any tracks a pitch or two past the top of the coulior indicating they probably didn’t make it even that far. Left camp at 9am?, reaching top of couloir at 10:15am was relatively easy on firm snow with crampons & axes, left axes at top of coulior, clouds rolled in. Periodic sunbreaks for the rest of the day. Lots of snow on the ridge which made the scrambling a bit precarious. The route was intimidating due to the difficulty of retreat, the sustained exposure, and the questionable weather throughout the entire day. Clouds were continually blowing up the south face and reducing visibility to 20-30 feet. Then the cloud would blow away and we would have clear skies for a few minutes. Climbed in hiking boots. summit (8815’) at 3:15pm, No other tracks on the summit indicating we were the first successful group since last snowfall. We could hear the party that had camped next to us ascending the East ridge, but talking to them later we learned that they did not summit due to snow on the route. Snow was extremely soft on descent; plunge stepping above the knee with every step. Bergshrund visible and just starting to open. back to camp at 8pm?, long hike in the dark back to the trailhead at 11:15pm. Having two ropes would be useful for descending (particularly the couloir). Adventurous drive out including a deer that wouldn't get out of the road, a mouse in the dashboard, and a flat tire. Good luck and please post a TR when you get back.

From the website: "your muscular skeletric apparatus" I didn't know I had one of those...

I never heard about that! Can you provide a link to a story or (OH PLEASE OH PLEASE) a picture, because I love seeing Bush making an ass of himself.

rich? damn dude. i hate to see what you call poor. Ed Visteurs is rich. And so am I and so are you and so is Tommy Caldwell. This is what I call poor: ""Severe" poverty, where more than one-half of the population subsist on below US$1 a day, was evident in eight countries - Mali (72.8), Nigeria (70.2), Central African Republic (66.6), Zambia (63.7), Madagascar (63.4), Niger (61.4), Burkina Faso (61.2) and Gambia (53.7) - of the 77 with data available in 1990 or later. "Severe to moderate" poverty - utilizing the US$2/day poverty line - existed for more than three-quarters of the population in 14 countries: Nigeria (90.8), Mali (90.6), Madagascar (89.0), Zambia (87.4), India (86.2), Burkina Faso (85.8), Niger (85.3), Pakistan (84.7), Gambia (84.0), Central African Republic (84.0), Nepal (82.5), Mozambique (78.4), Bangladesh (77.8) and Ethiopia (76.4). Poverty is clearly widespread and a prevalent problem in these countries, all of them in East and West Africa and south-central Asia. Latin America has not escaped the problem of poverty either, though. Countries such as Bolivia, Ecuador and Honduras show at least half the population at below the US$2 a day level. Of the highest poverty gaps measured at US$1 a day, more than 25 per cent were in Burkina Faso, Central African Republic, Madagascar, Mali, Niger, Nigeria and Zambia." from: http://www.ilo.org/public/english/employment/strat/kilm/kilm20.htm

He is a well known and rich American. Like Tommy Caldwell and those other climbers who were held hostage for a while. I'm sure some folks in Pakistan/Afghanistan would love to hold Ed and his bunch for ransom or kill them. I don't blame them for keeping a low profile.

p.s. Good luck Ed.

What a great caption on that photo: "Ed Viesturs CONQUERS Manaslu". Yeah... I'm gonna go CONQUER snow creek wall today (if my partner ever shows up...). I'm gonna beat that thing into submission and hang it above my fireplace when I'm done. Let's hear it for hubris!

Yeah! What he said!

The establishment of a minimum wage was a great victory for labor unions. Previoulsy, employer could pay anything they wanted. So yes, you have the unions to thank for your (very high) wage. And for your good working conditions, etc... My point is that historically, unions have done wonders for the american worker and you and I are continuing to reap the benefits of the work of unions. Walmart sucks.

You wouldn't be getting paid what you are (whatever that is) without unions. You also wouldn't have ANY benefits (health, dental, etc) without unions. For a good look at pre-union working conditions in the US, watch a movie called "Matewan" about West Virginia coal miners. The workers were pretty much slaves.

Thanks for the advice ya'll. Based on my criteria, the following cameras are my frontrunners: Canon Powershot s200, 2x optical, 2MP, 9oz, Ebay ~$230 Canon Powershot s230, 2x optical, 3MP, 9oz, Ebay ~$320 Casio EX-Z3, 3X optical, 3MP, 6oz!, Ebay ~$375 Olympus Stylus 300, 3X optical, 3MP, 8oz, ~$300 Now I need to find these in person and check em out. I'm still taking suggestions though, so keep em comin'.

So I don't know what "plab" means. I searched for "plab" on google, and here and some of my hits. Fun stuff: Pole Lorrain De L'Ameublement Bois (P.L.A.B.) center of advice and service for the Lorraine furniture industry Professional & Linguistic Assessments Board Test (PLAB) PLab - short for Parallel Matlab Hello, I am plab. My real name is Patrick Labelle. I have a PhD from Cornell University which was followed by a two years postdoc at McGill University. Since 96 I have been teaching physics in a small college. I really want to learn superstring theory and hopefully get to a point where I could do research related to string theory/M theory. In a few years I will take a two years leave of absence and go do research somewhere.

http://www.sprawl-busters.com/

In American theatre/cinema, extras say "walla walla". Moose can eat rhubarb leaves.

If you wanna buy a pair of Brand X crampons, should you pay $130 at Pro Mountain Sports (or some other independently/locally owned climbing shop) or $99.95 at some online place? Your decisions determine what kind of businesses survive. Walmart sucks.

Anyone care to share their impressions of any small digital cameras that they have taken climbing? My criteria: at least 2MP at least 2X optical zoom small and relatively sturdy Thanks.

http://gusa.site.yahoo.net/g1089201-browse.html

K, Summit registers are a source of pollution that we as climbers can exercise some control over. We can't do much about the roads, trails, boot tracks, etc, but we CAN do something about summit registers. Besides, they are totally unneccesary for the climbing experience whereas all those other sources of pollution (roads, flatulence, etc) are required to get out there. Aren't summit registers some lame form of chestbeating anyway? Oh boy, I got my name on the list at the top of Peak X, now everyone will know..... Also, summit registers encourage The Man to keep tabs on us freedom-loving climbers. I'm pretty sure the FBI takes fingerprints and DNA samples off those things. JUST SAY NO to summit registers.

Or take matches and set that shit on fire... Summit registers are pollution. Friggin' mountaineers...

The WM ultralight is a sweet bag. If you can get that in a shorty, that's what I'd do. 20deg/ 1lb 10oz

Get a down bag. Mo' Betta. I got me one a deez and I'm real happy with it. Western Mountaineering Ultralight 1lb 10oz/20deg Buy it at Jim's place and support a locally-owned (and badass) climbing store! www.promountainsports.com