Alpinfox

$85,000,000,000/200,000,000 = $425 not $425,000 DING! More analysis of bailout cost

[video:youtube]881TR0a6J6U

Looking for any scenic/action photos in particular? BTW: I talked to Fred Beckey recently about his early ascents of Classic Crack. In your book you say he and the boys laid it back. I asked him about that and he said, "I think we jammed it... yeah, I'm pretty sure we jammed it." I dunno how well he remembers it, since he (jokingly) said, "not sure I could even find CC right now", but I'm curious where you got the laybacking story?

Topo looks really nice. What program did you use to make it?

convince me.

I didn't say "sheared" numbnutz, I said damaged. I've got plenty of quickdraws with bolt-side biners with gouges and deep scratches in them. You don't? Wires are flexible and therefore count as pseudosoft. Like your brain.

I believe there is some general rule of thumb about hard/soft not hard/hard or soft/soft. That is, biners (hard) shouldn't be clipped to other biners (hard) directly, nor should slings (soft) be connected directly to other slings (soft). When one biner is connected directly to another biner (or a bolt hanger for that matter), the amt of surface area in contact is extremely small resulting in very high local forces which can damage the metal. When a sling is connected directly to another sling, the bend radius is very small again resulting in high local forces which could cause failure if the material was old/weakened etc. The combination of hard/soft, a sling connected to a biner, allows maximal surface area contact and therefore lowest peak forces. I'm not an engineer, but the above makes sense to me.

It's Ken4ord's birthday! Ken, I want you to know that you are a very special person.

I don't recall needing anything bigger than a #4 for sagi-scarious. Where do you put the #6? Carnival Crack (10d) in the Icicle would be a good place to test out the big gear and technique. It totally flummoxed me. There is another splitter OW crack in the Icicle too, but I can't remember it's name. I think it's a 10b. I haven't been on it.

SWEET! No fewer than THREE little birdies chirped this news to me this morning. It was hard to wait for the report. Congrats!

That is a good point Off. Well, assuming nobody out there in cc.com land is a pro floor finisher and willing to loan out their gear, where would be the best place for me to rent the gear? Is the Lowes/Home Despot/etc stuff good enough?

Very good to know. I wonder if maybe you missed a couple intermediate stations? We should go back and check.

Nice!

Hmmm..... I think my acct has been hacked.

I am the man.

FAWK!

So you'd say the new reverso has slightly more friction than the older one? In rap mode? In autoblock mode? In belaying leader mode?

Holding my place on this important thread.

This is a good thread. Hey Avitripp, you still like that Raviltek belay device? Any updates on your review? How much are they at ClimbOn?

Anybody have experience with the new Reverso they'd like to share? I need a new belay device. I thought the BD Guide XP had too much friction. Don't like the sharpening of older Petzl Reverso, but otherwise like it. Interested in Kong Ghost or new Reverso.

I bought the parka version (hooded) at Jim Nelson's shop Pro Mountain Sports. Nice jacket. Very light, very warm for the weight. I don't think it's going to be a Canadian Rockies ice climbing belay jacket, but for the Cascades, I think it's great. I would prefer a drawstring at the waist rather than elastic because when you raise your arms, the jacket creeps up and then stays there. Kind of annoying. It puffs up very well after being pulled out of its stuff sack. I think the down is good quality, though probably not as good as Feathered Friends or Western Mtnring. Fabric is very lightweight. I seriously doubt it would hold up to chimneying or crampon/ice tool points, but that's the trade off you make for lightweight. Gotta be careful with it. No significant down loss or manufacturing defects that I've noticed yet. Fleecy lined pockets and collar area are nice. Nylon on the inside elsewhere so it slides over layers easily. Stuff sack provided is just the right size. I got the brown one. Wish they had a red/orange/yellow for better photographs! HAHAHA! 14oz! and ~ $160! Thanks Jim!

Bill, Give us a review of the Ghost belay device already!

Discussion links: Link 1 Link 2 Link 3 this guy is selling a "like new" Serratus Genie Long for $35 Link 4 <--

I'm in the process or refinishing about 350sqft of red oak topnail flooring in my living rm. Anybody have any experience renting floor sanding equipment in Seattle? What kind of equipment did you rent? Where did you rent? How much was the rental? Did the equipment do a good job? Anybody own or have access to a floor sander that I could borrow?

I don't think the UIAA really gives a shit about marketing. Twins and doubles are both kernmantle, but twins are thinner and haven't passed the tests for UIAA approval for # of falls, breaking strength, etc on a single line. They will be more prone to cutting over edges as well. I've used a single skinny line for easy stuff, but I'm not going to recommend that to anyone else. I think Trogdor's advice above is very good.