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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. To slog, or not to slog: that is the question: Whether 'tis nobler to ascend the south side and suffer the slings and pickets of outrageous crowds, Or to take tools against the north face, And by climbing grade III avoid them?
  2. I've related this story on cc.com previously, but... The night of 9/10/01 I was camped at the lower saddle on the Grand Teton. Just before sundown my partner and I noticed a few black moths flying low to the ground from east to west through our campsite and over the saddle down into Montana. We didn't pay much attention. However, the quantity of moths kept increasing to the point where I would guess SEVERAL THOUSAND moths were flying through our campsite per minute. This migration lasted about 30min from first moth to last moth. I have no idea what they were or what the story is. The next day we woke up, climbed The Grand, and didn't find out about September 11 events until a couple days later.
  3. Not available anymore? All I can find is this review.
  4. Does the pony mane detach for use as a bivy toupee? No gear loops? WTF?
  5. ....weighs almost five pounds, costs $360, and holds about four times as much as I specified. Thanks for playing though!
  6. Be careful! You can RAPPEL to the ground with a 60m, but you cannot be LOWERED to the ground with a 60m. Edit for more clarity: As stated, you can get to the ground by rapping with a single 60m rope (30m rappel), but only if the rope is free-hanging; not running through your gear. You will NOT reach the ground if you try to have your belayer lower you with the rope running through the gear and anchors. A 70m rope is nice to have at Index. Thanks Ken!
  7. Thanks for the replies. I'm trying to replace a North Face "Klettersack" that I had for about 14 years. TNF Klettersack That 18L Arc'teryx pack might be the ticket. Only 255g is nice. Clip in pts are nice. I think the Grivel Manu might be too small. John, can you fit two pairs shoes, etc in it? All the gear racking widgets on there might be nice.
  8. I want a pack that will hold two pairs of running shoes, two windbreakers, two headlamps, a liter or two of water, and a few clif bars - something the follower would carry on a multipitch rock climb with a walkoff. What have you used that you liked?
  9. Trip: Goose Egg Mountain, Tieton, WA - Ride The Lightning Date: 4/13/2008 Trip Report: K9D053fncvM Gear Notes: Bring a hanger and nut for 3rd bolt on 6th pitch. I think it's 10mm. Approach Notes: A wee bit of snow in descent gully
  10. In some thread a few years ago about the pink tricam I asked, "I wonder why they don't make a smaller tricam?" Some guy named "Dru" said because it would get fixed all the time. Huh.
  11. Cool. I haven't made it up Lassen yet, but that seems like a cool way to do it. Can one typically drive to the trailhead in winter (or "early spring")?
  12. Hey, don't you work at UW? Scientist or some shizzle? Wanna give me a definition for "shock load" there sport? I can't seem to find it in my fizix book. How much force you think he applied to that bolt? I'd wager it's on the order of 5kN. Certainly not going to damage the bolt.
  13. If he couldn't find Beckey on his own, his researching skills are questionable.
  14. Hey Josh, Did you get a chance to "walk up this route with an ice tool in your hand" this year?
  15. Hey Kevin, I'd wager it's getting buried in snow right now. The approach trail and slopes below the NF of Abiel have some significant avy exposure, so be aware of that. I'd give the snow from this most recent storm system a few days to settle before venturing in there. That said, I think the route I did was interesting and fun and I think Abiel is a worthwhile destination. It's All-Der Probably one or two more decent new lines to be had there too.
  16. Fred Beckey is looking for a roommate and I told him I'd help him out in his search. He is seldom ever at the house (usually out climbing/skiing/expeditioning somewhere) so you would pretty much have the run of the place. It's a pretty nice house. It would be a good location for someone attending/working at UW. Lifetime supply of napkins, rubberbands, and FedEx boxes included in rent. There was a climber (frequent poster here actually) who lived there for a bit over a year and that seemed to work out well for him, but he moved out of town a few months ago. I'm not sure how utilities or other bills are split up. Send me an email if you are interested and I'll give ya the contact info. alpinfox at yahoo dot com
  17. It's snowing in Ballard right now. Any ice forming on that wall yet?
  18. Hey Will, Have you climbed Running Man? My favorite RR pitch. Where is Out of Control?
  19. Alpinfox

    ALPINFOX

    ONE MONTH AND TWO DAY FROM NOW WILL BE MY 6 MO DAY! am i special?
  20. Thanks for clearing that up. Couldn't find that term in my physics book for some reason.
  21. Hi. Definition please?
  22. I think this is the best conservation-type charity going. They want to preserve a continuous strip of wilderness between Yellowstone (Y) and the Yukon (Y). The idea is that many high-on-the-food-chain species like mtn lions, grizzs, and wolves need VAST roaming areas and genetically diverse subpopulations to breed with in order to maintain the species. I think it makes sense. The money will go to buying land that interconnects the disparate island ecosystems of protected land inbetween the Y and Y to make one big preserve. It's where I'll be donating my charity money for the next few years; I encourage you to join me. This is the last remaining strip of bits of wilderness in North America. MORE INFO You can send a check to: Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative 503 W. Mendenhall Street Bozeman, Montana 59715 I did this rather than sign up on their website to avoid spam mail.
  23. I'm in Colo Spgs with ice gear. I also have rock shoes. Anyone wanna go climbing Tuesday or Wednesday? I fly back to SEA on Thr. Garden of da Gods? North Cheyenne Canyon Ice? Don't know if it's in. Something else? -Pax 206-three70-44seven4
  24. That campground sucks ass. Nazi campground "hosts" patrolling the grounds in their golf carts trying to sell you punk firewood for $90/bundle. 85 mile an hour winds everyday. Water that tastes like it was stored in a tractor tire for the last couple years. Miles from anywhere. Why, oh why can't they reopen the campground that used to be off the loop road? Before my time, but appaarently it was somewhere in the vicinity of the Pine Crk trailhead? It would be nice to camp in the park. God that place sux.
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