Alpinfox

You COULD, but you shouldn't. Twin ropes are not rated to take a fall on a single line.

That's what I thought, but it begs the question: What is the breaking strength of a carabiner in the worst case scenario? That is, bent over a sharp edge with the gate open. My conception of the "worst case scenario" for carabiner loading: Anybody know of any pull tests on carabiners in this sort of scenario? I'm guessing the biner will fail at well below the open gate strength rating of 10kN.

You are dumb. Shut up. When the "links in the chain" (literally in this case) between point A and B are steel, it hardly matters if there are 2 links or 50 links. Steel is bombproof. What matters is making sure that your biner isn't getting tweaked sideways, bent over an edge, or pushed against something in such a way to open the gate. Aluminum carabiners can break at relatively low forces (though I don't think as low as what Rad quoted above), so make sure your carabiners are loaded along the long axis. If clipping your biners into the hangers results in the biner hanging cleanly and being loaded along the long axis, great. If you need to clip lower on the chain, fine. I usually try to clip as high as possible on the anchor (usually the bolt hangers) because the top rope usually runs better with the anchor point a little higher. I agree with Trogdor that it is best to avoid clipping the bottom chain link to make later threading and rappelling easier, but sometimes the chain is small and you can't get your biner through the intermediate links (lots of examples at X38) without the biner hanging kinda cockeyed, so its best to clip the bottom link then. Don't clip into aluminum rap rings. Use them for threading the rope through and then rappelling and that is it. Don't toprope through them, don't lower through them, don't clip your personal anchor to them, etc.

The Seattle Monorail project collected $200 million dollars in taxes and spent it all. They ran up a further $110 million dollars in debt which I believe we are still paying for. We have NOTHING to show for it. This is shameful.

source please?

Bravo!

Red sky by night, sailor's delight?

Also, watching Porter follow me up Princely Ambitions a couple weeks ago (his first time rock climbing again in about a year) was pretty sweet. It touched my heart and soul. And then Porter touched my special place.

On sighting the 10+/11- thin fingers splitter headwall pitch of the west face of NEWS during an October sunset with Mr. BobbyPeru providing the "attaboys" and "send it brahs" is probably my most satisfying pitch ever. The position is incredible, the light was gorgeous, the larches were golden, it was my hardest trad lead to date, we had climbed two spires earlier in the day, and I was stoked. Very very stoked. Thanks BP!

I mighta fucked yer missus but I never fucked your daughter.

That -82 is without windchill? I used to live in interior AK. My dad's job for a while was testing electronic equipment in extreme cold for the army. I walked to school everyday, but if it was colder than -50, school was canceled. Coldest day I remember was -65 and my dad claims he experienced -70 during field testing. That is all without windchill - usually those really cold days were eerily calm.

Everything on the north side of Exfoliation Dome (Voodoo Wall) is non-slab climbing. There are FAs to be done there as well. If you find a pair of sunglasses near the campsite at the base, let me know.

When I said I had recently climbed the first pitch of Tatoosh, I meant the first pitch of Free At Last. I thought they were one and the same. I don't remember a bolt, so I'm guessing I didn't do the pitch in question. I don't have any photos that I think would be helpful in this discussion, but THIS might help.

Aha. Gotcha. Yeah, I think that would be mighty hard. Here is a pic:

Maybe you are talking about "Avenging the Goddess Kring" 10a Great long pitch with some #4 camalot size crack and a thin crack.

I climbed p1 last weekend. I had climbed it once before, but it was a long time ago. What's the problem? Hold broke off or sumfin?

Throwing in my thanks to whomever was involved in the road clearing efforts. Thanks Matt, Mark, and ? I was hoping to "get my slab on" sometime soon, but have been deterred by the road closure. Good work guys! suggestion: Next time advertise the work party in advance. I would have gladly participated in some chainsaw work. So how far do we have to walk the road to get to the 3 O'clock trailhead now?

Not with my skinny little toothpick leg it ain't - I was swimming in that thing. An old style #5 camalot or #6 C4 camalot or a couple big ass hexes/tube chocks (a la MattP) are necessary for that OW in my opinion. I definitely considered it all of 5.9. My TR

I'm curious to hear what your basis for that statement is. I don't think I could have been much clearer. Oh. OK. I'm convinced.

Did you visit PWS before the spill? I did. From what I've heard, the place has NOT "healed itself to become the pristine place it was before the spill". I'm curious to hear what your basis for that statement is. PWS had the most incredible salmon fishing I've ever seen. My family used to catch our limit (5 pinks/person/day) in about 15 minutes. It was nuts. The quantity of wildlife there was stunning. Bears, otters, FLOCKS of bald eagles, blueberries, moose... The oil spill was heartbreaking for me, but I'm sure my pain is nothing compared to the folks whose livelihood and spiritual center was found in those waters. This court decision just twists the knife a bit more. Sad.

Is this your gnome?

they sat there overnight so I grabbed them Describe them and I will get them back to you edit: I'm back in Seattle now, but will be happy to mail them to the owner.

No, it did not belong to GK. It was placed by Mike Gauthier during his testing following GK's accident. Thanks for cleaning up the crack AM.

Video

Yes, cheers to sobo. Also cheers to bwrts for catching me in the biggest fall of my climbing career. I hope you mend well Dane. Thanks for sharing your story.