Alpinfox

The amount of force acting on a piece of pro during a fall is a factor of several things (weight of climber, length of fall, the amount of stretch in the rope, harnesses, bodies, etc, and the "fall factor". The "fall factor" is the ratio of the total distance the leader falls to the amount of rope out. So, if the leader falls above the anchor with no gear, that is a factor 2 fall. (Leader falls twice the rope length). I'm no physicist either (I'm a geneticist), so I don't know the formula to calculate the force of a fall (the rope stretch issue is complicated I think), but I think a factor 2 fall (falling from 10 feet above anchor to 10 feet below anchor) generates twice as much force as a factor 1 fall (falling 5 feet above your piece of gear which is 5 feet above anchor for a total of 10 feet of rope). This is why factor 2 falls are BAD. Always put a piece of gear in above the anchor, even if it's easy climbing. Don't fall on the anchor. Damn my brain hurts... I need a beer....

What were you doing with a TCU at the pearly gates???

Thielsen is a piece of cake anytime of year. I passed some wanker "Mountaineers" near the summit once in plastic boots and all roped up. No snow to be seen and the climbing might be upper 4th class!! Don't bother with a rope and pro unless you are really inexperienced or you want to carry extra weight for climbing purposes. Anyway, it's a fun jaunt. Enjoy.

I climbed the W. ridge last year in early June just before the permits were required. Came in via Asgard Pass. We hit snow just above Colchuck Lake and there was snow up to the base of the route. Some snow in crevices and holes, etc, but for the most part the route was snow-free. It was friggin' cold the night before we climbed though and it snowed a bit. It's a fun route and the summit tower looks bad-ass from the base of the route. Enjoy.

Hey I need a warm-ass sleeping bag. Feathered Friends, Western Mountaineering, Marmot, North Face.... As long as it's down and warm. Please email: -foxe@u.washington.edu p.s. I need warm-ass mittens too.

Lowe Alpine Adrenaline JacketWomen's size large = Men's size mediumColor is RedBrand new with tags still attached This is a great lightweight (13oz) waterproof, breathable, hooded shell. Leave that clunky goretex at home. Retail is $115, this one is $70 foxe@u.washington.edu [ 04-11-2002: Message edited by: Alpinfox ]

Feathered Friends Volant Jacket Size MediumColor is Bluish-purple and blackFabric is PTFE (FF's version of dryloft) Jacket is in great shape and super roasty warm. Retail is $295, this one is $180 foxe@u.washington.edu