genepires

dane doesn't look at freshies forum.

not sure about vertical as I don't own those but I bet it would be great for routes up hood. Anything works with toproping though. Most of the hard routes were put up a long time ago with inferior gear. Surprisingly, Dane hasn't chimed in as he is our resident ice gear guru.

It may seem strange at first but you will adjust and not notice it much. My fave tool setup a long time ago was a straight shaft grivel 55cm with a bent grip grivel 50cm. Thought I was so rad alpine like (Kitty Calhoun was swinging that way) but I was just dreaming. Did some good ice climbs and mountain ice routes with that setup though. I think your setup is a very good one, especially for something like n ridge baker. What routes were you thinking about using these tools for?

I was belaying a fellow who fell onto his umbilical and it held. Without that, he would have cratered. food for thought. maybe umbilicals should come equipted with screamers.

why didn't you trundle or burn them?

How do you find such cool things?

took longer to read the comments than watch the video. That way one can scroll through the video real quick. So whats the point of this comment? Absolutely nothing, like the video, like climbing in general.

never heard of a "3 or 4 wheel" cam. Maybe the next big thang from the major cam players.

didn't they go to stolby 4 years ago? Maybe more. I remember reading this in some climbing magazine. yes.....F$#@ing crazy.

good for her. but I am still scared of her.

keep your eye open for any road cut that is on a rarely traveled road. (like a logging road for example) Find a super strong tree for a TR anchor and have the belayer anchored and away from base of the climb in case rock comes peeling off. It doesn't have to be pretty to be mixed climbable. In fact, the uglier the rock, the better it is.

beautiful artwork. Trundling to pyrotechnics. whats next?

sounds reasonable. check out indoor climbing gyms in FL. You might get lucky and learn some basic rock skills which will go a long way in mtneering sport. summer quarter? Maybe hit the road, live outta the car and live large in good country. good luck and stay safe,

So what are your plans when you graduate from HS? Or are you already? If so and you are really commited to climbing, pick a place to live near the mtns you enjoy. Pick the flavor of climbing you enjoy and move to where it is conducive. You can read books but that will only go so far. You need to do it often to get it ingrained. And the information may not make sense without real life experiences to give it meaning. Plus there are things to learn that books can not do, only experience will. you can't lose with places like washington, california, utah and colorado. as well as many other western US states. what is keeping you in FL?

the modern warrior uses leashes. I was right all along!

voters want services without the taxation that is required to pay for it.

interesting that they quote that they spend $1200 per climber for the mtneering program. It seems to be a high number given the total number of climbers there. Isn't there something like 5000 climbers per season which equates to a cost of 6 million dollars per climbing season of 3 months. Would be real interesting to see a breakdown of their numbers. (I could be way off on the climbers per season) Just checked the NPS website: I guess there were about 1300 climbers in 2008 so assuming that the numbers are fairly constant, that comes to $1.5 million for 3 months or $500,000 per month.

very cool. thanks.

if driving from seattle, the i90 to sandpoint in idaho, then north to the border is the faster option. i don't have a map out but it is fairly obvious if you have one. plus as mentioned earlier, then you got gibralter wall on the way and bring chains and a reliable vehicle. Flying in to calgary won't save you much of anything and will cost a bundle to rent a car. The rampart hostel is getting to be a hotel with all the improvements. My favorite hostel for sure.

I got some draws on a rad 5.6 Please don't take my draws.

very good video and music. Is that mask the newest in balaclava from patagonia?

pair of aiders, pair of daisies (regular kinds not PAS) and pair of jugs. The daisies are cheap. Unfortunatley the whole thing will run into a couple hundred bucks I think. You could use prussiks instead of jugs if the line is straight up. Hopefully your partner has some pro and biners to couple with your set of gear for that monster aid rack needs. As seen in your video, you can get by with tied aiders and prussiks but the daisies will help.

"used to be a long distance/marathon runner in High School and Junior High" says it all. Hope you get better. MAybe muscular imbalances? Maybe try to figure out ways to promote more muscular balance in legs and hips areas. (work hamstrings and glutes?)

I think the wierd bounce test was near the end of the video. A #2 tcu high and bounce on a nut below. I would not have brought anything up if I hadn't been in the same spot myself. the testing thing matters more on sketchy aid. City park is a very good long aid pitch. Aid climbing is one of those sports where reading more helps because there is so much rope work, gear management and various techniques to various situations. Always something new to learn there.

not being a hater but your aid sequence needs some streamlining. Plus, it is a good idea to clip the piece after you have tested it either with a bounce or applying full body weight. And why bounce test a nut with a solid cam above it? It should have been bounce tested from below. Just a little friendly advice from someone who is not a aid expert by any means. Get a pair of regular daisy chains and use a fifi on them. read some on aid techniques. try it. read some more. try them. continue ad nauseum. simplify, simplify, simplify to go faster. here is my basic sequence that I am sure many others can improve upon: assume nut for simplicity climb up aiders till nut at waist height. hook fifi into nut. Place next nut as high as possible while still being strong. An extra 2 inches won't matter if it blows. clip daisy to nut. No other biner besides daisy biner. Clip lower piece to rope, take fifi off and give a little bounce test via daisy. Put one or two aiders onto daisy biner (if not on already) and give it full body bounce test as aggresive as you feel like. While bounce testing, your rope is connected to the nut below the testing nut which has been tested already and should hold a good fall. (If the rope is connected to testing nut and it fails, you have introduced slack into the system) If satisfied with the new nut, climb up aiders till at waist height and fifi in again repeat till you are sick of aid climbing and go sport climbing. Once, no hating here just saw a lot of inefficiency going on in the video. Why the equalized anchor mid pitch?