genepires

Is this a optical illusion or is his R arm/hand all messed up? It looks like a foot.

how can a spring sale start in winter time? Don't you got a month to go till spring? (granted it feels like spring but forecasts call for some coldness on the way)

oh yeah. Damn fine climb you guys. Proud for any point in a climbing career but extra fine as a first winter climb.

bucketz=jackass same number of letters same position of vowels and consonants same 3rd and 4th letters Coincidence? I think not.....

Bob Kandiko is a legend. He taught my basic climbing class for the belligham mountaineers back in the day. Him and Karen are some really cool people!

page count: bolting cerro torre = 3 pages of flames, yelling and somewhat cordial discussion bolting beacon rock = 7 pages of inferno, screaming and full on hatin' this makes sense due to the obvious supreme importance of beacon over cerro torre. carry on gentlemen!

where do I get a permit (or verbal permission) from JoeH to climb in beacon rock? Does JoeH hand out annual permits for washingtonians to climb there?

While not a meteorologist, I would imagine that the muir hut gets hit by a cat 4 hurricane winds force way more frequently than we generally think about. I bet that roof has had high winds many many times. MIght need ear plugs though!

would have been real cool to be stuck in the camp muir rock shelter today. Just to see and hear what that wind feels like!

take bets on whether it gets to min 120mph with gusts to 170mph?

I doubt that "Wall St" has anything to do with that fake petzl gear. The companies traded an wall st are far to large to be bothered with making a few thousand fake reproductions of obscure rope ascending devices. They would rather steal a copy of viagra or hybrid auto design and make serious money. You need to point the finger at the real culprit. "China's bottom-line tactics aren't in our interest."

Interesting that the market for ascenders and pulleys is large enough to attract the fake reproductions industry. I can see faking a NF jacket for the ease of making it, ease of getting away with it and the huge market to sell to. I imagine that the day we outsourced our production of climbing gear to china is the day that the fake reproductions started being made too.

nice! could you give us a clue about "undisclosed location"? fun game?

all routes are four star routes. Nice.

BTW, was type of tool is it? My CM/Petzl and grivel tool never rusts.

use it and the rust will be gone. or clean up good, oil it and then never use it. the rust should not be a problem. For the time it takes the rust may be a problem, you should have replaced the pick long before due to the pick being filed down too far. (no metalurgist here) But I would imagine it would take 10 years or so for the rust to develop into something to worry about. If the rust is just something that you don't like to see on the tools (understandable) then maybe just clean it off (steel wool) and oil it down. This will wear off when you swing it into ice so you will have to redo. There is a liquid (on a cloth) to apply to metal to prevent rust and you can find it somewhere that sells gun cleaning supplies. It won't get rid of rust but will form a waterproof layer over metal. Obviously this won't survive a climbing day either.

not dead yet. Winter returns this weekend with forecast below freezing for the next 7 days!

wadda think? try to enjoy the sun while we got it?

Weird how you can hear the clipping of biners (in the rostrum video) but not the mumblings of "I am gonna die....I am gonna die....I am gonna die". Maybe they are just 10000% better than I am. She can layback for a long time! the nose video is rad too.

Not entirely accurate. you can't self belay 100% of time. The times I needed to self arrest, I wasn't on ground that needed self belay or walking downhill where self belay is awkward and less secure. Plus does anyone self belay while traveling on normal glacier terrain? Don't forgo self arrest practice because of a belief that self belay will save your hide.

that is really cool but what is are the poles for? wet boots too.

and I really did mean at least a couple hundred times. If and when you fall on snow, there is no trying remember what it was you were supposed to do. If you have to think, it is to late.

all self arrest really comes down to footwork. The picks purpose is really to get the feet downhill and add a little more purchase towards stopping. Slight changes in pick design within the classic mountaineering curve style will not affect the self arrest. Since you have asked this question, it is obvious that you really need to head up to the ski area, find a same place to slide down and practice that till you are really proficient, very wet and tired of hiking up the hill for the hundreth time. Learn all 4 of the standard downhill position and try a few non standard ones. Reading in a book means nothing. Doing is the only way to learn. Not learning this and being on snow means that eventually you will be a victim.

we need nomex long johns, tuk and socks.

worse yet is synthetic underwear. In the navy, we were required to wear cotton only undies. Not that they checked. But imagine the synthetic goop on the junk! That photo of the hand is sick. what is the story?