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Everything posted by genepires
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or throw some leashes on those rigs? no wait.....
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maybe you now have a winter and a summer boot. maybe you need 2 pairs. Since you bought the liskamm as a summer work boot, it should be good for summer alpine climbing boot too. I don't own either boots though.
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One of the three girls climbs. She was weilding a axe and rack. She's up there right now sending frosty granite splitters.
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uh, I have a pair of nomics and ergos for sale now. 2010, bought 3 minutes ago. not what I come to expect for petzl/charlet moser.
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sweet! Me thinks that you folks above are just grumpy old dudes. how could you not like that video? I don't remember seeing those girls in town though. but I will look more.
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Ways back, I had a pair of omegas when BD was distributing them. A very long walk in them gave me blisters in the arches of my feet. I guess I have somewhat flat feet (not flat enough to need special shoes though) and the arches in the boot were fairly pronounced. I don't know if that is still the case for omegas but something to watch out for.
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Think climbing takes guts? Try logging!
genepires replied to Lowell_Skoog's topic in Climber's Board
different times with real MEN. Heck, just setting the pole took real effort. thanks Lowell. -
how do you get to climb with some hot chick? Lucky!
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the slinging the boot refers to using the pant legs tied down around the boots instead of using gaiters. Not using full strap crampons. I think whoever wrote it down might have gotten it wrong. Makes more sense to tie it down before putting crampons on.
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yes, we stayed a bit aways from the true ice caves due to the possibility of a large slough or full on avalanche coming down the n face. There is nothing "potentially" hazardous about it. It is damn ass dangerous. there was very little debris at the base which is good sign AND a bad sign. There was some big debris inside the ice cave though. Much larger than I would expect for a collapse inside without showing any surface disturbance. thanks for the safety reminder. keep safe y'all.
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No photos but just a heads up for any fathers wanting to get their kids out for a little winter "adventure" You can drive to the big four trailhead. there is a boot pack all the way to the ice caves. Maybe 10 people have gone up all the way so it is not super fat but doable. Just after the last bridge (new this summer?) near treeline, the trail kinda gets lost and you gotta go over downfall to get back into the summer trail. Find it on the way back or the swack back to the trail is kid epic. for a frame of reference, My boy is 3.5 years old and did ok. Should be good for sunday but who knows after the coming week.
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Modifying Older Style Cobras for Leashless Use
genepires replied to rock-ice's topic in The Gear Critic
You could use a plastic clipper biner as your leashless grip if you have big hands. I tried this on my cobras but my hands weren't big enough to really work. this takes a real man. take a plastic clipper biner like the BD ones. flat and simple is best. cut the spine near the top and the other side near the gate. should be "J" shaped. tape the hook really hard onto the shaft. this is so old school that dane, blanchard and josephson will want your autograph and buy you a beer. For those in SLC, Layton will be doing the old school leashless rig groupie following and buying of beer. -
Modifying Older Style Cobras for Leashless Use
genepires replied to rock-ice's topic in The Gear Critic
OMG, if it is not the newest fusion or the raddest newest thang out there, then people will laugh. We can't be climbing on ancient 3 year old tools. Surely death follows those whose refuse to buy new tools every other year. I have some 2004 quarks with the pinky rest added on late (had to trim away some plastic and it was real easy). Been very happy with it and not looking at getting anything new. unless there is more spray and drool over the new fusions. ooooooohhhhhhhhh yeahhhhhhhhhh. Besides buying new means going leashless. and that ain't happening -
500! now we are talking. Is the etrex user friendly? even for a tech newbie like myself. Couple the altimeter watch with these gps might be useful.
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I was wondering what experiences anyone had with this bushnell backtrack GPS device. Seems like a good GPS for someone who relies on paper maps and plain ole common sense but would save my ass when things go wrong. from what I can tell from the ads: pros- simple back track and setting waypoints shows altitude and temp and distance to waypoint $90 retail small (4"x2"x1") cons- only 5 waypoints no downloadable maps So my questions are for people with more expensive GPS is: do you plot more than 5 way points on a outing? Do you really need to download a map for where you go? (do you mainly use the backtrack feature?) for anyone with a bushnell, how good has the reception with satelites been? If you have any other opinions regarding this GPS, I would like to hear them also. thanks for your helpful responses and the smart ass ones too.
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math and logic on cc.com A miracle!
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how do you re-condition after a shoulder injury?
genepires replied to builder206's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
that doesn't sound possible. are you a noodly rubber man? -
they are probably fine. You may want to have new slings put on which runs about $5/cam from BD warranty dept. Just reslung mine which were a generation older than the ones you are looking at.
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that has got to be rough on the right leg.
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if it is just glued in, maybe some heat would loosen the hold. (campstove?) Then some dynamic forces could get it out. Maybe a funkness device clipped to the spike hole. To cover my ass, safety is a major concern with the possibility of flying sharp stuff. So have things locked down (axe in a vice) and area safed off. Maybe even wear personal protective equipment. maybe a better idea is to just buy a short axe. I broke the spike off of my long-ish ice tool a long time ago doing something foolish. Was able to cut the shaft square and re-glue the spike in.
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what about a regular truck? I have never had a 4wd truck and never really needed it. (it was real nice though when buddies have it in the winter) But if you are thinking of mostly non winter climbing and ski area access (chains on worst days), a largish 2WD truck with a canopy will handle all that you want. The 2wd helps with gas mileage and a 7ft bed is the best for sleeping in. Sleep in a subbie? get real. Your first requirement is the toughest one to fullfill. How rough of a road do you want to drive on. My t-100 has better clearance than a subbie. How bad ass snow driving do you want? A subbie is better than a 2wd truck. my truck mileage = 20 mpg wifes subbie forester is 28 mpg. Nothing is easier for a road trip than a truck with a canopy. No stupid roof rack.
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Dual vs. Monopoint ... Leashed v.s Leashless
genepires replied to marc_leclerc's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
still on leashes and duals. Not more than 7 days on ice though in those 2 years. I did see 2 short lead falls during last trip by leashless climbers. Yours truly was quite possibly the only leashed climber in all of hyalite all thanksgiving weekend. Experts and newbies alike. maybe I should just climb on straight shaft pulsars? anybody got a pair? Would people respect my leashes if it was on a pair of old gray rambo tools? -
ditto. great photos too!
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Shuksan grand central station NYC pic/mural?
genepires replied to olyclimber's topic in Climber's Board
there used to be a large photo of that same aspect of shuksan in a photo or a book store in lake louise. It had a stuffed bear that you could have your photo taken with. Always thought it was weird how in a land of big mountains, they used a yank mountain. -
[TR] Bugaboos - WR Pigeon, NE Ridge Bugaboo 8/15/2010
genepires replied to Lisa_D's topic in British Columbia/Canada
sweet! thanks for the photos and TR. Lucky you with the NR all to yourself.