genepires

I don't think CF and I have different opinions really. I was just trying to make people think about when to use a boot axe and when not to. the seated hip belay is a very dynamic belay also but I think it is easier to make it dynamic. that may be due to the training though. I never had much practice with the boot axe due mentors opinion on such.

I would agree that the boot axe belay is useful, there are times that this kind of belay is not appropriate. I have seen many times people using a boot axe in very bad situations and when I talked to them about it, they usually bring up the Schoening or similar arguements. Before some newbie reads this thread, reads a little of the freedom of the hills, runs out and has one fail, I would like to throw out a few thoughts on the boot axe belay. -is the snow strong enough to hold the expected force applied? Is the snow soft and new? Mushy afternoon snow? Like pickets, a frozen surface crust over mush is better than the opposite. Obviously frozen all the way down is ideal. Also, are you catching a leader fall? (really, I have seen it) Or catching a slip on snow that is less than 45 degree steep. -what would the outcome be if there is a fall? You gotta think about the position of the fallen climber at the end of the fall to decide if the boot belay is appropriate. It is ideal if the climber can quickly get back on their feet after the catch Will they be hanging on the rope for a long period of time? (Think crevasse fall or a slide over a cliff) You will need to be holding the rope in a rather uncomfortable position and the failure of the anchor is a matter of time. Boot axe belays of people crossing fragile crevasse bridges drive me nuts. Yeah, you may hold the fall but then what? You gonna stand there all day, hunched over. What if you got to help the injured person out? How are you going to make an anchor in the snow? sorry for the rant. When I hear about the virtues of boot axe belays, my skin crawls. IMO, I like the seated hip belays more than the boot axe. except for the wet butts.

new meaning to the phrase "speed is safety"

probably. I don't care about them listening to my phone calls too. What negative effect is there with the cameras pointing at the climbing wall?

why care about a camera if you are doing nothing wrong?

damn it.....another one of the best is taken too early. condolences to family and friends of Joe.

I'll wait for the day after DPS goes in so there is a boot pack.

you might need to define alpine ice a bit. There is a lot of variety in term of alpine ice such that for some routes, your tools listed are not good options. I've been on some alpine ice where the regular mtn axe 60 cm was better than the reverse curve ice tool.(N face maude and buckner come to mind) While a iced up gulley would be a good terrain for your listed tools.

beckey route lib bell. south face ingals pk scan through the selected guide and see what fits your bill, then go and follow the masses to the route, right behind me.

right on and good job. I am not sure what happened but it sounds like you kicked some fed ass in court.

what are the winter boots you own? I doubt the s evo is stiff enough but maybe you cannonball calves?

If you are planning overnight snow camping trips, you may need to invest in a insulated pants also. Down may be a better choice for small females for both jacket and pants, due to the weight of the item and the heat retention ability. By down now or buy it later, either way.

While I am not for the parking fees, it is only $30 a year and there are a lot of poor people buying $5 coffee drinks on a regular basis. If they can afford to drive to the trailheads, they can afford the parking fee. The arguement against parking fees based on eliminating the poor doesn't hold.

while not basalt, I tried climbing in a quarry (it had bolts so someone is using it) and I thought it was very loose. A loose rock face would not be a good business location. Maybe you need to consult with a geologist to see what the face would be if you did some blasting. My gut feeling is that blasting would shake the place enough to destroy any good location.

damn sweet.

go in do what you can and rappel at a predetermined time. You will have the approach and lower pitch info for a full ascent next spring. don't let the haters deter ya.

climbing in shorts and larches! not a common occurance. nice job.

I fell into a crevasse (two feet dangle but only down into waist) near the top of the inter glacier. Very unexpected as the next glacier has more crevasses of size. There is a way to get from the top of the inter glacier to sherman without getting on the glacier again via downclimbing some shitty looking rock and the rangers use it often. The rangers often use another approach to not step on the inter glacier too but it cuts off the main trial early, goes up a different valley and runs along a ridge climbers left of the inter glacier. I have never done it so that is all the beta I got.

for $75, it better go in on it's own.

if it wasn't for the rope, it would look impossible. nice job finally getting on it.

what about old hacks? can we ex non-hardman be the human sacrifice for the AMGA?

heal fast. You both handled the situation in the best way possible. Much thanks to the rescue people involved.

regular cars are fine for even the black velvet canyon drive. Just don't tell the rental agency you are going to red rocks to climb. You are driving the strip and never going to think about leaving town. Otherwise they will give you the business and strong arm you into a expensive SUV. If you bottom out a couple of times, no one will ever know if you go slow. routes frogland is very good for your grade (shady) dark shadows (shady) lotta balls wall NOvember may be cold so you will have to chase the south facing aspects cat in the hat (5.6) all day sun solar slab (5.6) all day sun olive oil (5.8) late morning to early afternoon sun tunnel vision (5.8) with morning only sun do your homework before getting on routes there. Know the approach and descent. Have double ropes. get a early start and watch out for prickly plants. Some guidebooks have some mistakes. If you know the routes you want to do, ask people for advice on it before going out there. I lived out there for one year and would give you advice for specific routes if needed. JasonMartin has done lots more than me out there too.

damn it all..there is no justice. Met Dallas a couple time and he was one of the most friendly outgoing guys I ever met. Both times were very good encounters. We all will miss this great man.

anything BUT video games. They rot the brain and there will be no future for you to return to.