genepires

if rule changes are so upsetting, then how about these folks just go climb outside, where there are no rules. while I am sure there are exceptions, comps lack spirit and camaraderie. When climbing with friends, why would I get upset when my friend climbs something I can't? (usual for my climbing days)

mr glass is half empty. though yes, any forecast beyond 3 days is suspect. certainly a 10 month forecast is as good as a lottery ticket. But I prefer to live in optimistic denial of reality.

well, at least in the long long term forecast, next winter should be "normal". http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/multi_season/13_seasonal_outlooks/color/churchill.php

I could climb decades at index and never get up a 5.11 I need to drive a long way to find new 5.9's that I can get up. there is a simple reason why the same climbs show up on many lists on this thread. A person writing their list after reading the previous posts are affected by those previous posts. Those climbs get "remembered" while the slew of other great climbs are neglected. I can do the same thing with my kid by getting the answer I want by framing the question a certain way.

winter over? how about winter has not started. it will be ragin snow storms all june and july.

would like to see what Drew's best / favorite / climbs of future list looks like.

I bet dad is as close second to mom in belaying their kid. I thought I heard a women voice in the video. maybe the videographer?

who is belaying him? I would think the best belayer in the world would be my mom. That would be the only person who I know would not be distracted. awesome job!

throw in a healthy dose of cragging rock climbing and some ice climbing to wi-3. A solid technical base makes everything in the alpine a little bit easier.

1) Have climbed. (nothing big in the grand scheme of things but big for me) polar circus n rib slesse ne buttres slesse beckey chouinard howser ham n eggs mooses tooth 2) Capable of but have not climbed. cassin ridge denali university wall squamish mt Huntington moonlight buttress zion zodiac 3) Admire but will never climb. 5.12 M6 WI6 anything scary (cassin ridge being one of them)

there is a couple of cliff bands at the bottom of the slope. also moat forms to the right of these cliffs. these would suck to fall over if there is a unarrested fall. in a usual winter, I would say these features are buried but this is not a normal winter. March may be like a typical may conditions if things keep going as they are. jason brings up a good point. adding a setup of a ultra light axe and aluminum crampons would give safety without a lot of extra weight. If this is a start of a alpine scrambling future, then these would be very useful in the future.

you probably want to do the aasgard pass way. the other way will be longer and more bouncing around trying to find your way. the route finding is easier via colchicum lake. make sure you have good visibility. up high above treelike would be a bad place to be in a whiteout without good nav experience. by that I mean nav by map and compass alone. no landmarks. use snowshoes if it is a large group. is everyone a good skier? I doubt it. you may need some winter backpack experience for the group. read some books. have everyone go out for a couple weekends and hike to a camp and spend the night. You will learn by making mistakes in a forgiving place. either snow pass or stevens pass has plenty of short hike/camp destinations. I wouldn't say aasgard pass is technical but kinda steep for snowshoes. doable but not easy. you may end up packing the snowshoes for the pass ascent. obey the avi warnings but don't let a good forecast fool you. be aware of avi's.

while I have no real knowledge of canmore and their climbers, this smells of Mike Barter style.

plenty of work at the refinery. dangerous work though. baker ski area? add 45 minutes to b'ham. so that would be about 2 hours if you drive slow like me. take that back. no idea as one can drive east and north towards the baker hwy instead of going to b'ham. +1 to what Alex said.

if you read more than you spray, you wouldn't ask such a question. No where does it say in the letter from the ANA to exclude nurses only from this new ruling. they call for the current 30hr/wk to be called full-time for all americans. including swing shifters. https://filemanager.capwiz.com/filemanager/file-mgr/nasn/1_ANA_Comments_on_H_R_30_FINAL.pdf

Dupree has a distinct defensive advantage. I don't think Tommy's knife could get through the many layers of down, fleece and stinky polypro. Of course any good defense can hinder the offense. All those layers would make mobility impossible. call it a draw.

I may be ignorant but damn that is some impressive wear for a boot. those were either extremely SOLID climbing summers or you kick rocks and drag your toes when you walk. I would say to either talk or send these photos to Dave Page cobblers in freemont area. They may have lost the favor with the rock resoles but they still do a good job on boots.

skyline would be good. pretty mellow and well traveled but that is something like a 3 hour trip if you go the usual route. if you have done the summer hiking routes up dickerman or pilchuck, those would be good 2 day trip too. Unfortunately, if you follow a ski tour guide, on some part of the tour you will be going on 30 degree slopes as that is the fun angle for skiing. that is also in the sweet zone for avi. I suppose good route finding would allow you to detour around those sections. Not evidence, but I feel like a snowshoe is more likely to trigger a slope than a skier. seems like more force applied to the slope. maybe I am wrong. get some real avi training. watch videos of people getting trapped in for some reality check. I have been involved in two small avi incidents. I have also lost two acquaintances to the white death. those have put the real fear of the angry snow-god in me. this is nothing to take casually.

or at least someone at NYT that knows climbing who started the whole media frenzy. even NPR had a phone interview with both of them.

could use any ski tour guide and just do those. a 2 day ski tour will take you 4 days, at least. also could use a regular hiking guide for a resource. get a list of the open fire lookouts and head up that via their hiking routes. Only did two but they were real nice. usual disclaimer: be very avi wary. on a long trip, you WILL be setting foot on a slope that is at that perfect angle for avalanche. learn about avi awareness.

can't Tommy just lead the rest and claim the first free ascent like Lynn Hill did for the nose? They could prolly come back later and send it again claiming the first team free ascent. Doubt that there are any people out for that same goal any time soon. but then I am no ethics master.

that is a man? I thought it was some deranged woman. now it makes sense and is OK with me. and the second video. I hope that is a mud ball and not a dog turd. not that it really matters to Alan.

UH?!?!?!?!

MEC in Vancouver made a r1 hoody knock off that is inexpensive and just as good as the original. At least they did years ago. That hoody is my favorite upper piece. worth checking out for the budget guy. I would just change your setup to 1 short sleeve synthetic top 1 long sleeve synthetic top a r1 hoody or mec knockoff vest is OK ( I don't usually wear one) windshirt 1 med or lightweight synthetic puffy jacket (spring and winter) lightweight hardshell. lightweight synthetic bottom (spring and winter) shoeller pant lightweight harshell pant (for those trips that hiking out in the rain is not an option). If you can't wear all the layers at one time, then you are bringing to much stuff.

I have gone up to banff in mid march and been ok. Not near Canmore but farther north on the ice fields parkway. Murchison is pretty cold all winter. Maybe it would be pleasant in late march. Think n facing and higher elevation and it could work out for you. But then two weeks could make all the difference between ice being fun and being in a heap on the ground.