genepires

are you sure the strain gauge measured in lbs? I imagine that they go in metric so it could be some other measure.

I am not really a hard sport climber so I can not personally speak to that but canmore has plenty of great stuff going for it. Someplace that will be good end of July till early August. -very good weather A good spread of difficulty (one of us projects 5.10 the other 5.12) -I have a bow valley rock guidebook with plenty of good looking hard sport on EEOR and Yamnuska. Plenty of crags all over the place. There is also a guidebook for the Ghost area. May be free camping down there. Mostly single pitch -I wouldn't say the majority is single pitch but the multi pitch stuff should be on your radar. The ones I did are awesome. I can only imagine that the harder stuff would be even better and cleaner. not sure about the ghost area. Lake Louise is mostly single pitch and good quartzite. Free or cheap camping - not free but prolly reasonable. Enough stuff in the area to keep us busy on rest days -yes. great hiking and scrambling peaks. the drive up the icefields is beautiful. Awesome Rec Center that canada is well known for. Not in WA -check To me, the great beauty of canmore and banff is the alpine climbing. The long trad multi pitch, glacier walks and alpine ice sheets is my usual wet dream and banff and surrounding area deliver that. Also a little secret - Bugaboos is nearby. YUM. This kind of thing may not attract you but maybe when you get there, she will bend you to her ways.

not trying to be a smartass but how about find a partner instead?

bring a stove and pot to melt snow. only saying this as you didn't mention it but you were kinda extensive in your list. I am also mentioning it cause my first overnight at muir, I did not bring a stove but 2 liters of OJ for 2 days. not enough and I got pretty sick overnight. burning white gas in a pan for heat and light in the hut did not help either. the hut may be a good choice in late april.

I am going to go to a dog shelter, bring a couple of dem hounds to your crag and have them pee out "FU" in all caps. I would bring my dog but she is too old and scared to be on any nuisance. One time in the city of rocks, I managed to get my little black lab up some 20 feet up a 5.9 by throwing a stick. she pulled the crux and free solo! I imagine she would annoy you if throwing sticks for a energetic black lab was the kind of thing that annoys people.

It is OK Mike, he has a valid point.

just curious, what are the 4 options? BTW, I was just kidding about using Pat as a bad example. Just noting that Pat is far above the norm and his example is not typical. But his positive attitude and dedication to rehab and to getting out, whatever the reason or activity, is a great example for anyone after such a drastic surgery.

it has been a long time since I was in one but back then it was real cheap. Seem to remember it was like $100 for a really long string of classes and outings. (bellingham mteers) inflation has jacked up the course to $650 so you may have a good point. $375 for boealps. maybe if you are correct in your skills assessment, you should take an intermediate course? meet people and learn something new? (boealps is $490) of course the problem is that many of these may have passed for application deadlines but then maybe next year if things don't work out well enough? good luck' gene

at least bad dogs don't use ALL CAPS. I find that annoying.

too bad they don't make a 50m version.

while you said that you don't want to take a course, the basic climbing courses from local clubs are a good way to meet a fair amount of people. Depending on the club size, as a bonus, it may be full of people close to where you live. I met a lot of good folks from the bellingham mtneers class back in the day. Not sure about in the kent area.

not quite the Smash and Grab style. way to get up that beast!

using Pat Timson as a example for the average joe is a horrible idea. Pat is an animal and would still climb if both his legs fell off. Prolly just hand over hand everything. I remember him before the surgery and he was always out and smiling even though it was painful. Nothing stops him. Good luck with that YC. Must really be painful to be considering something like that.

the first two campgrounds (8 mile and bridge creek) both have entrance roads that people park on (so that you are not on the main road) and do a quick walk down to some campgrounds. They are really close.

It all comes down to personal choice as there are pro and cons to both. I think the cons outweight any pro in this question cons - this applies to the persons who do not fall into the crevasse. When the rope comes tight, I want to force applied to these people to come from as low as possible and in this case, the harness area. Keeping it down low makes getting into self arrest easier and they may even be able to hold the weight from a standing leaning back position. If the force is applied to the chest area, it is much more likely that they will be pulled into a bad position and they would have to do those self arrest from positions that require swinging body around. ie, the head first down the hill positions. This would mean that the victim falls deeper in the crevasse which runs the risk of having the rope cut in deeper, hitting things or getting wedged before the surface folks can stop me. Imagine someone pushing you at the waist area or your shoulder area. Someone pushing you around at the shoulder is easy to knock you around. Why someone would push around your waist is something you should do at home in private. another con - if I am a surface member and holding the weight of the other, with a chest harness on, the rope runs up to my chest harness and then back down to my harness. This would be harder to hold the weight and make it really hard to do crevasse rescue in a 2 person rope team scenario. When holding the weight, I like to keep all the force on the hips which allows the legs to do all of the holding which frees up the hands for making anchors and other things, like taking a smoke break. pro - if you fall in, you are less likely to tip upside down. not that big of a deal for me as I make a leash for the pack and preclip it to the rope. so if I do flip around, I can unclip the waist belt and not lose my pack. I am not sure if there is a physical harm aspect to flipping around in the crevasse. The rope cutting into the snow and dynamic nature of rope should keep the force low. I would imagine that it would be natural to grab the rope when falling which would prevent one from flipping around too. With all that in mind the choice for me comes down to do I want my team to be able to stop me quick or prevent a unlikely flipping? easy choice for me. and an even better question is if you do decide to use a chest harness, what does the middle person in the rope team do? If they pick the side of the team that has the person falling in, then the 3rd person can not offer any assistance in catching the fall welcome to cc.com!

that is some good info from petzl.

N Evidence? None. You show me yours and I will show you mine.

once again, provide evidence please. Though to be honest, I do support the idea that felons who served their time have the right to vote.

yeah, preventing 100,000's of eligible people from voting to prevent a hundred fraudulent votes. real 'merican values.

Fuck! That fucking fucker is fucking fucked!

I am pretty fond of my simple BD drytool gloves. my fave is a discontinued pair of cloudveil gloves though. never rap on sweet climbing gloves. I always rap bare handed.

just a guess but I think "luck" went to be "look". awesome job on watusi. Curious how often it gets climbed?

Al poons is the weapon of choice for WA summer alpine. when you need steel, it is obvious before leaving home. if you have to ask, then all you need is Al poons. forgo the romance and take sketchy Dan with you. He is a alpine golden good luck child.

I am usually the guy who is all about having a 60m rope for glacier travel, but this sounds like a good case for a 30m x 8mm glacier rope.

I would say that emmons would give you the most trouble fro the list. late season climbing on that route can be a pain but maybe the snowpack up high is OK? North side of baker and adams should be fine. no idea about glacier pk.