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Everything posted by genepires
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hey Dan. if no one takes you up on those shoes, maybe they would be a good donation to something like a VW climbing team or a "hoods in the woods" group. there has to be some non profit outdoor education outfits around. Seems like those sizes would fit kids I got a pair of rock shoes in that same size range that I could donate if you find a good cause.
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excellent climb and a excellent write up. a disfunctional arm would have stopped most people. that Zeb is an animal.
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I believe Yates sells a adjustable daisy chain that has a built in load limiter. so the static line is fixed to above the tree stand? you have some kind of ladder to get up to the stand? Cavers have extrensive methods and tools for ascending fixed static ropes. try reading this about short static falls, which you are exposed to with this system. http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/the-dangers-of-short-static-falls It really would not be hard or expensive to put some dynamic components in your system. If you are worried about the damage from sitting in a harness for a while, then you should really be concerned about static falls.
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first ascent [TR] Vesper Peak - The Ragged Edge 8/18/2013
genepires replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
should be fine. alpine fine that is. not squamish fine. -
worried about the loss of strength due to girth hitching but planning on this? wrong priorities. I hope this is just a self belay of a fixed line. If so, there are much better devices to use, ones that would slide up smoothly therefore not generating that "max 2ft" fall potential. like a micro traxion or this http://www.kong.it/doc/Kong_Back-Up.pdf Heck even a unmodified gri gri works better. even so, use a dynamic rope to mitigate any small fall onto the rope.
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this makes no sense... shudder to hear the story behind the use of this. money says that it is a bad idea. a very bad idea.
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http://unofficialnetworks.com/2014/08/sad-news-from-moab-the-tower-known-as-the-cobra-has-fallen-before-and-after-photo always dreamt of someday going to fisher to climb the cobra. just goes to show that procrastination is a bad thing. Better go jump on el cap before it falls down.
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there is one trad line at exit 38 that I know of. it is on the Far Side at Shagri La. (I killed the spelling of this place) It is 5.10 something and pretty fun. If you ask Rad, he may take you out there for a tour. Seems like there are some trad lines around blackstone wall area at exit 32. Vantage has a trad climb sandwiched between every column. Index may be the bestest closest trad area around.
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another logic for having a beater logging road climbing car is that you don't care if it gets broken into at TH's. Leave the windows rolled down. maybe an old used 2wd pickup.
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maybe those really bad road days need to be car rental days? Or maybe own two cars. buy a real beater used car for those logging road trips and a squeaky clean ultra high mpg car for the 99% of the driving. added benefit is that the other person will offer to drive when you pull up in the beater.
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what gym lets you use those dry ice tools? the Redmond VW would not let me use them unless the area was roped off (dropped tools) and it had to be a TR. (no lead or auto belay) even with that, they still may not let me use it there. I should ask again. for the OP question. another option that I am gonna build this summer is a adjustable plice wall. no swinging involved but lots of set, step and pull. search for will gadd and plice.
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[TR] Squire Creek Walls - Skeena 26 7/18/2014
genepires replied to curtveld's topic in North Cascades
there is always more to dtown. that sound is not bigfoot and his mating call but rather it is those FA monkeys drilling a new line. nice job Curt! Is the cut off the main trail right where we saw crazy maniac taking a break? -
Steep Sport Climbing as Training for Alpine?
genepires replied to Rafe1234's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
while this does not address your question directly, it has lots of good info in the quest to prepare for alpine climbing. http://willgadd.com/reader-question-manual-labour-or-office-job-for-mountaineering/ finger tendons of steel will not help much in your alpine climbing quest. ability to move efficiently in 4th class, knowledge of weather, navigation, route reading, belay changeovers, licky split gear placements, first aid, general glacier skillz, low angle ice climbing, ect are the things one really needs to train to go in the alpine. -
are these a relaxed cut in the thighs? I got some thick quads and many pants are too tight in the thigh area.
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sweet! am I wrong in that it seems strange that the lake still has iced over? is that normal for this time of year? BTW. pretty cool to do it car to car. that is a lot of miles.
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[TR] Return to Moss (nee Spring) Mountain - 7/13/2014
genepires replied to susan's topic in North Cascades
that dirt makes your teeth look so white. people pay good money for a teeth whitening. little did they know that there was a cheaper option. may be the new fashion "look". -
[TR] Return to Moss (nee Spring) Mountain - 7/13/2014
genepires replied to susan's topic in North Cascades
since others are not allowed to comment on the area, it must be all yours. so how about YOU go and clean it up to your satisfaction. -
best of cc.com I made an amazing geologic discovery!
genepires replied to Explorer's topic in Climber's Board
found the renton granite? -
[TR] Return to Moss (nee Spring) Mountain - 7/13/2014
genepires replied to susan's topic in North Cascades
Seems like that trail has sorta disappeared for that last 20 yards or so for quite a while. that is nothing new. I think your bushwack part escaped too far right. I usually end up only about 30 yards right of the main area. the main area has always looked dirty but when I got on it, it has been clean. I think the moss and dirt cling to the rock on such a way to be confusing. SO even if it looks dirty, it is worth going up. Now, it being in the upper 80's is enough to make that place unbearable. I am a wimp that way. Spring/Fall is the season for Spring mtn. direct south facing sunlight. -
[TR] Mount Index - Traverse of North, Middle, Main 7/4/2014
genepires replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
proud looking trip. nothing is impossible with Chris around. -
1. don't go so fast that you knock down rocks. 2. don't go so slow that are in the firing line that long. 3. when you think you are out of the way and still in the gulley, you are still in the firing line. there is no safe haven. 4. wear your helmet till you get out of the gulley. I have seen big rocks roll down and get real close to friends. too close.
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leading the whole thing is leading in one block. If you are leading the whole thing and use your rope for the anchor, you will need to either redo the anchor with the second's rope or swap ends at every belay. using the rope for an anchor is something that should be done in the rare case of not having a cordelette or runners to make a proper anchor. from a rock rescue point of view, using the rope to make an anchor creates many difficulties. (escape belay amongst many issues)
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that is a #2 and a #3 camalot and a #1BD sized FCU