genepires

good daddy!

Heard from a mtn guide that the south side of baker was pretty bad right now. Can only imagine the BS pain in the ass it will be by october. In normal years, the south side of baker is a pain by early september. other than glacier type climbs, really everything should be good for your time frame. +1 to what Curt said above.

Water good. Are the black flies or mosquitoes bad too?

strange cause we just got a decent rain there this weekend.

damn epic trip! Looks like you two make a good climbing team. try turning the summit register to landscape if you want to fit your name in it. Your tent has had quite a well used life. I doubt that many other tents get used so much.

we need a "top 50 routes in the 5.8 to 5.9 at index" list......never mind there are only a handful total.

amazing that such a beast has not been clawed on yet. beautiful name for the route.

sounds like a visit to a foot doctor is the best idea.

I am calling BS on the go pro / knife thing Canada[edit] The Criminal Code of Canada. Section 84(1) defines "a knife that has a blade that opens automatically by gravity or centrifugal force or by hand pressure applied to a button, spring or other device attached to or in the handle of the knife" as a prohibited weapon.[10][11] Only persons who have been granted exemption by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police through the Canadian Firearms Program are allowed to possess (but not acquire) prohibited weapons. If a person is found in unauthorized possession of a prohibited knife by any law enforcement officer, the person is liable to a maximum of 5 years in jail and the weapon being seized. The crown can then apply to a provincial court judge for the weapon to be forfeited and destroyed. The import and export of prohibited weapons is also strictly regulated and enforced by the Canada Border Services Agency.[12] Examples of prohibited knives include:[13][14] any knife, including a switchblade, gravity knife, or butterfly knife with a blade that opens automatically by gravity or centrifugal force or by hand pressure applied to a button, spring or other device in or attached to the handle of the knife; Constant Companion (belt-buckle knife); finger rings with blades or other sharp objects projecting from the surface; push daggers Manually-opened or 'one-handed' opening knives, including spring-assisted knives, that do not fall within the categories listed as prohibited weapons definition are legal to own, import and use.[15] There is no length restriction on carrying knives within the Criminal Code of Canada, but there is a prohibition against carrying a knife if the possessor intends to carry for a purpose dangerous to public peace or for the purpose of committing a criminal offense.[16] 89. (1) Every person commits an offence who, without lawful excuse, carries a weapon, a prohibited device or any ammunition or prohibited ammunition while the person is attending or is on the way to attend a public meeting.

may be crooked but the granite is very white and clean.

I may regret this later but I don't think bears are that much of a problem. not like in the sierras. the bigger animal to worry about it various small rodents and crows. Having a food bag hanging is a big open invitation for them. they can't resist a backpack laying on the ground. I have never had a problem with simply putting my food bag either between the two sleepers at night and in my sleeping bag during the day. Now if you are eating grilled salmon and trout every night you may need more measures.

If you had left out the reason you don't care to keep it you would have sounded like a good Samaritan instead. honesty never got anyone anywhere. maybe there is a lost and found thread on a mountaineers website. as a bonus, you know how to word the posting.

photos are awesome, especially the rainier / marmot shot.

I don't understand internet trolls and trolling. Can't fathom the need to spread controversy and non stop argueing. People got different views...got it. at some point though, you gotta say, "F it". libtard you computer savy folk impress me.

disclaimer: I have been to nearly every range in WA, except the olympics. I would think that the glacier would be pretty well open by the time you get there mainly due to our wierd snowpack this year. maybe I am wrong. If they are all open, then a shorter rope would suffice as it is for the very unlikely chance of falling in. (assuming you are bringing and proficient with crampons) If you are going to bring a 30m rope and a tagline, then you should really evaluate the weight difference between that setup and a standard 50m twin. from a pure safety / rescue point of view, a 50m double is the better option for a rope team of two.

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you are right about the knots being a pain that is why I "(another good reason to have extra coils is due to those knots when trying to do a 3 to 1 pulley)" or another line to prussik out on. it comes down to what you are more afraid of: chance of the falling climber dragging in the surface climber into the crevasse or a difficult time with the rescue. being the sole person to catch the fall is more worrisome for me. As a result I put in knots. As a result of the knots, I need enough coils around the shoulder to reach the other person. (and them some) As a result I need a 50 or 60 m rope and can't get away with a 30m rope. but even with a 3 person team it is a good idea to have enough rope to reach the fallen climber. Chances are that the snow is really soft or else someone probably would not have fallen into a crevasse if the snow is firm. So the rope would have cut through lots of snow. Trying to excavate the rope from that much snow will be time consuming and involve dropping lots of snow onto the victim. And the risk of cutting the rope while getting all the snow away from the rope. (think using the adze) The person in the hole will appreciate a fresh rope dropped down a well excavated hole off to the side.

It was mellow about 17 years ago. It was just 3 raps on fixed slings and mellow snow downclimbing to the ridge. A lot can change in that time though.

nice TR. just curious though. how come you choose to not go up the west ridge gulley and do the 3 or 4 rappels plus downclimb to get the NW face? Has something changed on that descent approach?

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everyone has their preferences but I take the worst case scenerio when deciding on glacier travel gear. That is your partner is hangin into the crevasse and you need to rappel in to give medical help or just make the person upright if they are unconscious and upside down. Others don't plan for that plan for the most common scenerio which is a simple punch-in or a non-event in the first place. You have to decide which one you want to gear up for and then we can talk about what the preffered setup is. Mine is to use a half rope 50m with enough rope in coils (not kiwi coils) to be able to rap into the partner. 3 butterfly knots in between to assist with catching the force. (another good reason to have extra coils is due to those knots when trying to do a 3 to 1 pulley). Each person has enough gear to make a snow anchor. (1 picket and the axe buried)

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1125663/Searchpage/1/Main/96413/Words/rope%2Blength%2Bglacier/Search/true/Re_Ideal_rope_length#Post1125663 was a discussion about that last year. seems to come up every year or so. This could be a worthwhile sticky topic. (admins)

oh contrair sir. Me thinks that a lifetime in jail, walking unprotected among violent criminals (of the color he dispises) is a fate far worse than death. And the added benefit of not allowing him to be a marter to the white rascist crowd. giving him death is the kind thing to do to him. let him suffer.

i wouldn't concer yourself so much with the training for speed part right now. You sound like you are in adequate shape if you can go at a pace for long periods of time. Just focus on getting out and having fun....or phun as I like to call it. Type 2 fun. Pick fun goals within your limits on a regular basis. Have fun even if it is slow. Don't beat yourself up about some clock values. Speed is not what climbing is ALL about. Sometimes that bivy is the best part. Relish the alpine. Don't speed through and miss things. Gradually up the ante and so a little bigger each weekend. Your fitness will improve. You will speed up without trying so hard. Plus what folks above said too.

not my circus...not my monkeys....