genepires

oh contrair sir. Me thinks that a lifetime in jail, walking unprotected among violent criminals (of the color he dispises) is a fate far worse than death. And the added benefit of not allowing him to be a marter to the white rascist crowd. giving him death is the kind thing to do to him. let him suffer.

i wouldn't concer yourself so much with the training for speed part right now. You sound like you are in adequate shape if you can go at a pace for long periods of time. Just focus on getting out and having fun....or phun as I like to call it. Type 2 fun. Pick fun goals within your limits on a regular basis. Have fun even if it is slow. Don't beat yourself up about some clock values. Speed is not what climbing is ALL about. Sometimes that bivy is the best part. Relish the alpine. Don't speed through and miss things. Gradually up the ante and so a little bigger each weekend. Your fitness will improve. You will speed up without trying so hard. Plus what folks above said too.

not my circus...not my monkeys....

kids love swings. use that to help kids (the really young ones like your 2 and 4 yo) get used to being in a harness. In a rock gym, my son's favorite thing was to go up some overhanging route 5 feet and let go resulting in a nice swing. He got very comfy with being in a harness and associated it with fun. then at squamish, the idea of being in a harness on some low angle slab was also associated with fun even though the swings are not as great. there are plenty of small not guidebook climbs that are great for kids. big enough for kids to get a appropriate thrill and not hogging up some popular climb that is prolly too tall for a young one anyways. Something even 45 degree steep is a great place to not over excite kids. just keep your eyes open (what ever that means) as you walk from adult crag to adult crag. always little kids crags stuffed in between.

that is some crazy shite! For a passing party to have Alan Kearney in it is very lucky. That is one man I would want to save me. This part is weird to me. "Has this in anyway turned me off to climbing? Not in the least. Do I blame God? No. With every venture there is risk and reward. Accidents happen and I bear no ill will toward the mountain or God or anybody else for this incident. " what about the guy who thought a single picket (unknown how placed) was good enough to dangle over a cliff? It wasn't the mountain or god (if you got that way) that placed a poor picket. Does this smells like he thinks it is gods will or the mountains fury?

last thing I know is anything resembling new protocols. I suspect that many things have improved since I last looked at this things.

Just to highlight the risk of a single point anchor, the latest R & I magazine has a accident article involving the failure of a single bolt anchor resulting in a death. And that was a bolt which is arguably much stronger than a stick buried in snow which is on it's way to being water.

Yeah curt, I meant that the sling points in the direction of load and the sling is perpendicular to the picket as well. Been a while so I can't remember the source but there was a test done where the vertical placed picket with the sling attached to the middle like a deadman did as well or better than a deadman picket. Still had dig a slot for the sling but just pound the picket in.

Time wise, my anchor takes about 5 minutes at a thoughtful non hectic pace. Something like this should happen in a well though pace. When things are done hecticly, things get forgotten and mistakes made.

If you are doing crevasse rescue, then chances are that the snow is not bomber hard snow. if the snow was hard enough for a single piece snow anchor, then it is very unlikely that someone could fall into a covered crevasse. I suppose that someone could have a sliding fall into an open crevasse There is no excuse for a single point snow anchor, regardless of snow condition. First rule of rescue is to not make more victims. Putting your life onto a single point anchor is a risky idea. Even if you only have one picket, you still have a ice axe to deadman. If one had to have only one snow anchor, it would have to be a deadman picket. There may be something to a vertical driven picket but the sling is attached to middle of picket. But I have never practiced it. My two point anchor takes about 3 minutes more than a one point snow anchor. Time is not a significant enough reason to avoid a solid standard anchor. My favorite way to make a 2 point snow anchor (both pieces have a double runner already attached) is to 1. Bury the first picket pointing directly towards the victim. 2. Bury the second picket directly behind the first about 3 feet with the sling slot pointing directly into the other picket sling slot. 3. Girth hitch a double runner to the lower picket sling and connect the other end of this runner to the higher picket's sling with a biner. 4. Tie a figure eight knot in this double runner to equalize and make a SERNE anchor Some wil find things that they don,t like about my way but there are also advantages as well,, some not so obvious. I have practiced this method many times with never an issue. There will be many opinions on something like snow anchors. A worthy resource is to find what the AMGA is suggesting that the guides teach and use.

or that phat pillar on rogers corner. we could make a list of things that are next to fall down and time capsule it.

I used to have the metolious foot slider and adj daisy. My no measure am I an expert on aiding. I don't count the number of placements on city park but the amount of time till I can get my summit tuna sandwich. after a while, the webbing got fat (much like yours truly) and it got hard to extend the webbing back out. after lots of wasted energy, the advantage was gone. Yates makes one that I think would not have that issue. Plus it felt like things were getting real sloppy with extra biners and tails all flapping around. they do make a lot of sense for jugging though. Chris Macnamara has similar thoughts. "Metolius Easy Aider — Not great for leading. Good for following until you have to clean a horizontal traverse. If you bring them for following, it means you will probably end up managing multiple sets of Aiders. That goes against what I believe is the key to having fun and succeeding at walls: keeping the systems as simple as possible. There is a similar version of this Aider made by Yates called the Yates Speed Stirrup."

step aiders are stone age equipment, just because you are climbing stone doesn't mean you have to live in the stone age. Step aiders are harder to use and mean more to learn not less. Aid is the slowest form of climbing there is, why would you want to make it s l o w e r ? By step aides are you meaning all ladder aiders and those offset step aiders too? Sliders may be modern but they are not better. Simple ladders aiders are the best but it ia all personal choices.

check out these videos. very well done. that should tell you about gear you need and other great things too.'

I remember that wooden ladder. must have been gone for at least 10 years now. I like the idea of that ladder coming back.

there is always a chance I made an error. I was just going off the tax tables for that particular year. Maybe you can explain how this CPI matters? are you talkig about the Consumer Price Index? If so, how does that affect income tax? thanks gene

I think you are misunderstanding what the progressive movement is all about. teachers do their job because they have a passion for it. it is not a job they do for money alone. IMO, they deserve at least a small amount of respect for the service they do for society. If it is rude to suggest that someone move to pay less taxes (assuming there is some kind of passion for their property and desire to not move), then it would follow to be rude to suggest that teachers leave the profession for reasons of pay alone. If we are talking about being polite, then what is the difference between the source of the passion? But I suppose this is getting off topic, if there ever was one.

with the exception of property tax, where is a wealth tax? Seems like it is all income tax of various kinds. so suggesting that someone move to pay less taxes is offensive while suggesting that teachers get another job cause the compensation is not adequate is not offensive? I would put career choices above objects in importance.

sorry, I made assumptions of your financial situation. you are obviously in a much better place (income wise) than the norm. Good job!

thank god I don't have any stock options. that sounds crazy and something that turbo tax could not handle.

Yeah you gotta watch those trades. I thought that the brokerage would have sold the oldest shares first to avoid that short term gain rate. How come we don't have a system set up when a trade is made, taxes due on the profits is not automatically paid to taxes? (like sales tax) I got hit as well when I pulled out of the market expecting a down turn. at least you made money on the trade. or else no tax was due. You must have retirement accounts outside of the usual IRA and 401K. a overall cap on taxes would be hard to figure out. I would imagine that someone could say that the price of things I buy has a tax element inside. (from the tax due to corporations, employees and many other avenues) that would need to be added to the known taxes we pay. this could propegate so far that my tax burden would be huge wihtout me paying a dime via the usual tax channels. Only the very rich could use this trick and prolly not pay anything. tax lawyer magic.

you may have a point when it comes to hidden taxes like gas tax. But our biggest state tax source (sales and property) may not be as big as one thinks. sales tax is around 8% but only on things you buy in state and non groceries. sales tax is also tax deductible so one can lop off about 20% from the 8% tax rate due to federal tax refund. I didn't keep track of everything spent but there is a estimator in the fed tax code. don't remember the exact numbers but I recollect that the amount spent on sales tax was not that great, maybe around $1,000. And of course I got back 1/5th of that so I gave about $800 to sales tax. property tax was around $4000 but once again I got back 1/5th of that so I paid about $3,200 to property tax total is about $4000 to the state for those two sources of revenue. (after fed tax deductions accounted for) this is about 3% tax on income. not that much but I live outside of the city so my property tax is much lower than some. maybe you should move?

capital gains is weird. but from their chart it looks like the rate is anywhere from 0% to 28% which is still less than the reg tax rate. I think dividend rate is 15%. Table 16-1. What Is Your Maximum Capital Gain Rate? IF your net capital gain is from ... THEN your maximum capital gain rate is ... collectibles gain 28% eligible gain on qualified small business stock minus the section 1202 exclusion 28% unrecaptured section 1250 gain 25% other gain1 and the regular tax rate that would apply is 39.6% 20% other gain1 and the regular tax rate that would apply is 25%, 28%, 33%, or 35% 15% other gain1 and the regular tax rate that would apply is 10% or 15% 0% this chart didn't copy and paste exactly but the last % for each line is the max rate for that line item. 1“Other gain” means any gain that is not collectibles gain, gain on small business stock, or

?? My mistake. Middle class starts around $30K but the end point is varied. Yes $70K is solid middle class. maybe the start of upper middle class. not really sure and I think there is no definitive def for that.

cause this is real "phun"I ran the tax due numbers for $200K both 2008 and 2014 2008 $200K single $51,767 tax due married file jointly $44,830 2014 single $49,860 married file jointly $43,250 same result. less taxes under Obama's watch. those damn socialists! now my simple analysis does not take into account any kind of tax relief via credits or deductions that may have expired or removed. Or maybe KKK doesn't do his own taxes and his CPA is screwing him over. But I am sure that Fox news is telling me that my taxes are going up.