genepires

I have spent a lot of time on the Easton at various times between March and October. Climbing on that thing in September gives one a very good idea as to the number of crevasses you casually walk over during the summer months. It would take a choice between soloing that glacier and a bullet to the head to make me solo that thing. I have seen many people solo it, usually a close line of men with skiis on their backs in the afternoon. Call me nutz, but I feel like Baker has a kind soul and rarely punishes the disrespectful climbers. So many people get away with really bad glacier habits there that going by the stats, I wouldn't call soloing the Easton a death wish. I have been on the coleman deming in mid September and found the crevasse situation very tame in comparison. With the exception of the shrund by the pumice ridge, it seems like much of the route is a compression zone or just devoid of rock rollers under the ice. The potential rock and ice fall danger from baker and Colfax onto the Easton is easily managed by being in the middle of the glacier or just hustling through the sketchy areas.

BRAVO!

depending on who you talk to, that fact that these predate the stainless steel version could drive the price up or down. Some folks really don't like the new SS versions calling them easily broken.

another of the weekly R&I weekly whipper videos. but this guy takes a ground fall from fairly high up, immediately gets up and climbs back up to finish the chossy climb. This dude is either a huge badass, complete ignorant or possibly both.

forwarding to friend.

did this happen this last sunday? Curt and I were camped out on city park and Godzilla for the better part of the day (till about 2:30PM) and I don't remember seeing anyone go through packs while we were there.

sweet! home boy out on the vert. makin' it happen is always good.

if you piece it our, I will def take a couple panels and wood. nice looking wall

Not "lately" but I was up there about 5 years ago. the road was all dug out for water erosion prevention or something. Not overgrown then but they did that excavation work fairly recently at that point.

it looks like that upper grip is just a plastic plastic biner held on with grip tape and a hose clamp. should be easy to take off and put back on. +1 to what Dru said. Never been there myself but seen photos. Maybe someone who has been there can chime in. good luck down there. that looks like a amazing place. Keep the duct tape off the feet.

just my mediocre opinion, but I would get rid of the index finger trigger. seems like the hose clamp would tear up the hand. if it doesn't bother, then I would leave it. you could drill a small 1/4" diameter hole through the plastic bottom trigger but you won't be able to make that loop go through the metal hole. not that you are suggested to do, but anchoring with your tethers since would be on plastic and bolts. Just curious, what kind of ice climbing are you gonna do in S America? maybe a more alpine (no triggers) may be a better option. are we talking winter ice climbing or alpine ice climbing? and why S America? why not in USA or Canada in our winter? seems like a long way for cragging. maybe none of my business.

maybe you could drill a small hole through the plastic of the bottom grip to allow you to thread some perlon through and make a loop for your teathers. My quarks have only the bottom grip which I like. No upper grip so no educated opinion on those. But I would think that you would want the upper part of the upper grip and maybe could get rid of the index finger trigger. maybe you should try it out with your climbing gloves and see how it feels before chopping it off. It might be the best thing ever.

if you wear boots like this, you don't have to even hold the rope. the boots will do the belaying as well as the climbing. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1124953/FS_Sportiva_Batura_38_5_These_#Post1124953

You could donate them to the Redmond vertical world kids climbing team. seems like your shoes may fit them or they could sell them to pay for some costs.

you don't need a cat machine if you had these: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1124957/Re_FS_Sportiva_Batura_38_5_The#Post1124957

this is the best "for sale" ad ever. If I had teeny tiny girly feet like you and a smartphone, I would buy it and wear it around a local starbucks, commenting on "see this post on my smartphone and how rad I could be if I wasn't so weak". I like how you bust on 'merican women a little and expect there to be a 'merican male to fit these puppies.

and face the ridicule from folks in squish? I get crap for wearing tape mitts. I got crap from folks in bellingham for wearing the original crack mitts way back when. stranger's opinions matter to my weak personal ego.

sabre and midway on castle rock are good beginner places as well. assuming that he is not doing a TR mock lead practice.

fuck...not again...........

best to call the rangers station. maybe the climbing rangers have been in the area recently.

there was a box of used kids climbing shoes cheap at the Redmond vertical world. might still be there. try calling to see if they still have some and sizes they have. it is to raise money possibly for the kids climbing team. the sizes they had were too big for my 6yo.

http://eveningsends.com/climbing/climbing-gyms-arent-problem-assholes/

wire bail - needs complete rigid sole on your boot. better for vertical climbing but you really gotta check to make sure it fits the groove in the boot. toe strap - better for alpine with boots with a little flex.

not enough verbal recognition and rewards from partners? I would say that you either get internal rewards (preferred) or get new partners, most likely those who climb worse than you. they are easy to impress. You can find them at the mountaineers lodge in large groups. Not sure if I really understand the issue. "crushing" as I thought of it was how one felt internally after doing a climb. How smoothly and confident it went, not the accolades received afterwards.

DIY ice tools. would have never thought of that. awesome.