genepires

I've heard somewhere (probably a gear manufacturer) that nylon degrades with time a given percent of it's strength. (something like 10%, even when in the perfect storage like you mentioned) Given that, after 3 years it would lose about 27% of its strength. (The math is too complicated to describe why it is not 30%)I've got webbing sitting in the closet too and I have no worries about it. But I would guess that 5 years is too long as some doubt begins to surface which is to much doubt. For protection, inspection is needed periodically. Taking a big whipper is not grounds for retiring pro. If so we would have to replace bolts often. One time at band camp, someone else found a large crack in one of my camalots. Luckily, I only got a dose of embarrasment instead of hitting the deck with pro failure. I usually check the gear once a season for obvious cracks.

wild things ice sack. It is a super versatile pack with only the important stuff and no b.s. gadgets. Bit more expensive (maybe $180) than others mentioned but will last a long time and get you through almost any kind of climbing trip. But serrarus makes great stuff too.

try doing some slot canyon descents in zion or other areas. I don't want to give one area in mind away as it is still pristine. But zion has lots of good slots to go down for a different kind of experience that is kind of like climbing. Sorry, very little free climbing to be had there unless you are 5.11 ready. Heck, red rocks is close though. Endless fuun routes there. Let me know if you want beta for red rocks.

It is raining at 8 miles east of the pass and very little ice in sight. None worth climbing only putting into drinks. If you think I am full of shite and "hoggin" the ice go look for yourself.

Oh Matt the pessimist, The reports of there being no ice might in fact be good people just trying to save you the drive. You give climbers too much credit with trying to mislead fellow citizens. (save that for politicians) The reason why we have time to write here is because of being shut down from ice climbing. The time to look for ice is when there is lack of people reporting bad conditions, cause we are out hacking it up for ourselves. (like have you heard any bad reports except from rat lately?) I am heading out tomorrow and will report if it bad. If not, then get out.

Off the main thread but along the new trend for good authors. Geoff Childs has a great book called Stone Palaces. Funny and introspective. It is the library system. I am sure to get slammed for liking this guy's book. Go ahead and slam me.

There must be favorable wind patterns up north because I have found many balloons on the north side of mt baker, especially late in the year when the snow is gone. One summer I found about 15 over a 2 month period. With the prevailing winds, the balloons would blow from mt vernon and everett up the side of the mtn and pop the balloons due to increased relative pressure. This leaves them on the south side. How do they get on the north side then?

Myrazime can be found in dive shops as people use it to clean wetsuits that have the nasty funk. Kills all bacteria that live deep inside neoprene and stuff like it. Works on funky tevas too. Should do wonders for your tent.

I've been using metolious small cams for 10 years and they take a beating. I've seen a alien cam unit's sleeve blow apart while aiding which makes the whole unit inoperable. The sleeve doesn't seem very durable. It depends on what type of rock you climb whether the head width makes any difference. In squamish granite, I have never needed a small width cam. For larger cams I've been using bd cams but in retrospect I would probably get metol. cams through all the sizes. (or some other durable lightweight cam like tech friends) For the same weight, you could get a couple of extra pieces by buying lighter cams.

I agree with the prior fellow, ushba ascender is the best because there is no teeth biting into the rope but rather a pinching of the rope. Flows really nice and bites down great. The problem with regular ascenders is that the teeth bite into the sheath which hold you. (not the core of the rope) If you take even a small fall (say 2 feet which could happen if the setup is sloppy) the teeth bite into the rope and tear the sheath. Then the teeth bite into the core which doesn't handle sharp things well. Stay away from devices that have teeth and use a device that pinches the rope like a belay device does.

Cool topic dude, About using a plate system with plastic boots. The boots used for plate bindings have very little flex when leaning backwards. This translates power on a heal turn. Most plastic boots allow some back leaning which will give you less power on a heal turn. Hard boots are more like ski boots. I have been doing backcountry for many years now, mainly near baker but now around snoqualmie. I've been using the regular snowshoe setup nut got a split board a couple of years ago and really enjoy it. If you got the cash, go that way. Otherwise, a regular board will work. Irregardless of the board you get, get a good board carrying pack. I've carried the split board when the snow is hard. Avi gear of course too.One thing to think about, When using my leather mountaineering boots, I have found that the highbacks are higher than the boots. (unlike regular board boots) That gap between the low boot and the higher highback causes some pain in those long runs. Koflach used to make a backcountry boot that was very high with a rigid full shank sole. Check them out if they still make it. Would be great for mountainerring too.Drop me a line if you are looking for backcountry partners. genepires@hotmail.com

Even though you mentioned your dislike of mormons, Idaho Falls was a great place to live. Tetons are 2 hours away, city of rocks are 2 hours also, swawtooths about the same. If alpine rock, crag rock, and backcountry/area skiing is your bag then check it out. Cheap land and easy girls too. Also I have had friends from northern new mexico with lots of good stuff there too. Close to much of the best stuff in colorado as a bonus. Without the hype of Co.

I have used both garuda and bibler tents. My old garuda did not have taped seams so in a rain storm, water would seep through the seams and puddle up in the corners. Biblers have taped seams and have withstood many a bad storm. Unless garuda has changed their design as far as taped seams go, I would avoid them. If you are staying in the cascades, there is no reason to get a big bibler. Get the eldo tent and forget the vestibule. If you need a vestibule, maybe you should be going home. How many cascade climbers have sat out a storm (probably lasting many days) then got the summit? Not many. The ones that did got it because they are dedicated and forgo the comforts. Anyhow, go enjoy.

avalanche on approach or descent rappel anchor failure slips on ice crampon catches on something and then fall over

Alpine ascents guide service is still doing trips down there. No problems with them.

I was just talking to a friend about how much climbing has improved our lives. When my time is up, I would really hate to have the sport I love take my life. Never take life for granted.

I lived in bham for 10 years and it takes a crazy cold winter to form any ice near there. I saw ice at larrabee state park once. But don't ever count on seeing anything around that baker highway. Slim chance of finding stuff around squamish but that is the best place to look when a cold snap strikes. Or out the fraser valley. Keep alert cause the cold snaps are brief.

Drove to l'worth to check things out. It is raining pretty good over there. Lots of snow has melted out or had avalached off down to the base. Very scary time to be had out there right now. -lower half of pencil is gone-upper half of drury is raging waterfall-hubba bubba is half gone (half of it is exposed dirt) A large avalanches ripped right down it and probably ripped the hollow ice right off.-rainbow falls is still not in save the drive if you are planning on coming over.

Looking for a ride to the cody ice festival which is in late febuary, presidents day weekend I believe. Something like feb. 15-19. Will split expenses of course. Will be meeting friends there but will also climb with whoever needs partners. Reply soon. [ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: genepires ]

I have been using those super feet for the last three years and they are worth the money. Weird thing is that there is very little cushioning in it (maybe because it is three years old) but I don't notice anything. The way it pushes the arches up, it keeps the toes from getting pushed into the front of the boot. Go REI return with something you found in the dumpster (maybe the rei dumpster?) and take the credit to get the super feet. That's what I did.

I posted this report in another section on this site but thought it would be better here. Hubba is thin throughout. Take only 17cm or shorter screws. tie off screamers good idea. Leave the snowshoes at home unless it snows lots. Pins for the belay would be nice or find the holes I punched through the hollow ice near the only pillar there. If it snows alot, beware of avi condition on the walk off. The slopes are steep enough to go big. have fun and be safe

We just did hubba today and it hasn't changed much since these last reports. Bring screws shorter than 17cm and those tie off screamers. Good luck finding ice anchors. I tunneled away to make a pillar to wrap. Bring pins for those belays. Leave the snowshoes at home unless it snows between now and when you show up. Good luck and have fun! gene

thanks all for the advice gene

It is that time of the year, driving to canada and getting hit by rocks from the big semi's. I heard a bit of advice for preventing cracks from chips from spreading outwards. I thought I would see if anyone has tried this. I heard that you could score a small line (say 1 inch long) in front of the lengthening crack (perpendicular to each other) to stop the crack from going further. Maybe with a glass cutter or a sharp ice pick. Has anyone tried this and found it successfull?

Seen other posts like this on this site and the responce is the same. What are you gonna use them for? Pure ice climbing? Stick with good leathers like nepal tops. I've the uninsulated one for 4 years now and love them for pure ice. Never even had a cold foot, but I would hate to walk 10 miles in them. Summer glacier walks? Look at the alpha boot. Light and comfortable for long wet walks. Might even be good ice. Denali? Stick with the invernos or something warmer. Doing it all? You will have to buy multiple boots and not complain of the price. There is no boot that does it all. No matter what the goof in the store will tell you. Suck it up and spend the cash. You won't notice the price when you are out there. gene