genepires

Went into maude to do the north face this week and had a great time. The route is in great condition and is a full 2000 feet of perfect cramponing and tool daggering. usefull beta if you go up there. the high camps (killer bivy about 6700 feet) have small creeks and good sized snow patches for water. There are sites at about 7300 feet too but lack any water. There are some snow patches and bivy sites just below the saddle but then you would have to go back up to get your stuff if you left any. There is a big shrund at the bottom of the route but looks easily passable on the left. Nelson describes a traverse from the seven finger/ maude saddle. He says to drop to 7300 feet but I kept traversing across at 7600 feet to bypass the shrund and not lose any more height. (I am lazy) There are several finger of snow that go all the way to the top. The snow is very hard and perfect for crampons and tools. Never was able to stab in the spike but relied on the picks as daggers. Classic! There are a couple of exposed ice bits that are very fun. The ice is very old and hard like water ice but only 40 to 50 degrees. Good times. It was cloudy so the temps were cool. As soon as the sun came out, two volleys of rocks came flying. A watermellon sized one came within 2 feet of me. Get a early start. The descent, who knows? I started down the right gulley then it starts branching. Being a chicken I kept traversing to the south till I could find a gulley that was a clear shot all the way to the base but ended up almost at the south buttress. I bet any of those gulleys would have been fine but I didn't have a rope and didn't want to go back up the gulley after hitting a big drop off. My route involved lots of traversing and lots of loose rock. Another option is to go to the south shoulder (nice scree) and then traverse back to high camp. There is a small trail going down the worst parts. Anybody got down nice and quick? Get out and enjoy.

We were on the becky/davis route which is to the right if the route in nelson's guide. That route looks really good if you are fond of chimneys I suppose. Another route on the tick list.

Got some free time this week, tues to thursdsay. Would be interested in alpine rock or darrington area, but open to most everything. email at genepires@hotmail.com or phone at 360-805-1024

Does anyone know if the gate is locked to get into the anderson river area now that the watchman is gone? If so, how does one go about getting a key from the logging company? Any phone numbers? thanks

Very thoughtfull and I am sure that someone will be very appreciative. I would surely wish that someone would buy my gear and return if stolen. But I have always thought that my climbing gear was safe from theft cause it would be difficult for thieves to sell it. Electronics and photo equipment are easy targets as they are easy to offload. Those bastards at squish haven't found a easy way to sell camping/climbing gear and that is our salvation. I don't want to be an ass, but now those kids will know that they can sell rock gear and go on the prowl for more. Why not just get the cops on them and bust there punk asses. There might be more gear to be returned in their homes. Don't get me wrong, you did a kind and thoughtfull act and if you ever come across any of my gear, I will pay you double to get it back.

Was in there last year, late august I think. For that time of year, lightweight hikers are OK but I would want to have those little 4 point instep crampons. After the saddle, going downhill, there is a fairly steep and icy (for just tennies) slope. It had lots of big suncups that helped but an axe and LW crampons might prevent an epic. If you use burlier boots than tennies, you can get by with chopping a couple of good steps on the worst part. Don't know when you are planning to go but you might want to keep that in mind. Also, the bivy on the NE ridge (after one pitch on climbing on the ridge proper) is awesome. Comfy and not a single light anywhere. (exept the stars of course) Plenty of good water when you get off the glacier onto the ridge. Enjoy!

I got a old pair of super coumeyer ( straight shaft 57 cm) and grey rambo bent grip tools. This has seemed like the best alpine ice set up and the new generation of tools have swung away from a simple straight shaft. Nothing available today seems to be as good as my old set up for alpine ice. Got the g-12 which is a great alpine ice crampon. I like that the grivel tools have changed over the years but the pick attachment system hasn't. Is there any plans to change the attachment system and make it hard to find picks for our old tools?

I was up there about three weeks ago and we could drive to within .5 miles of the trailhead. It would be a safe bet that you could drive all the way now. I bet that much of the old road/trail before the clear cut is snow free too. We didn't go any higher that the saddle so I don't know what the rest is like. But I did go up to the summit some years ago in late june (after the record snow winter) and the summit gulley was still full of snow. That is a very "interesting" experience. Steep sloppy snow. I would bring rock gear to protect it as the snow pro was worthless. I would expect the same conditions now as it was back then. Enjoy!

Damn Mikey, sorry to hear about your fall but glad to hear that you didn't crack your head open. Damn impressive with your self rescue from the desert. I got all scratched up just walking out of those climbs, can't even imagine what it must have been like to crawl out of there. Going out to for ya.

If you are looking for a real alpine ice climb, wait till august like mentioned earlier. But if you are looking for a good mountaineering climb, then the NR is a great climb. I've done it in several different months (including may) and I've always enjoyed it. It was my first ice lead back in 92. The glacier travel to the route should be OK but I did punch through in may a couple of times. Might want to scout out a path the day before or have a good time by going through it in full daylight and bivy on the ridge below the serac "ice" wall. Never done that but heard from others that it was really cool. (of course you would carry over) Be wary of avi conditions though as there are a few slopes you climb up that are the prime angle. I would bring a few more screws than previously mentioned. I would bring four and have one screw for each belay and two for pro. I would definately bring pickets for running belays. Those deaths mentioned earlier I believe were the russians who fell while roped up without a running belay. I lost a climbing partner in another similar situation. Something to think about. As far as the two different starts, I like the right side start. (the face vs. the full ridge) You get more steep snow climbing that way. Enjoy the mighty Baker-horn! Send me a PM if you have any questions.

Good ideas Miller. I will try the butterfly knot sometime. I like your spacing of the knots as well. It is cool that you went out and gave it a real test. As for the question of having an extra sling or prussik for ascending the rope, if it is team of two, each person should have enough gear to create a z-c pulley system. This means that in addition to the texas kick prussiks (or whatever system one chooses), one should also have a couple of short prussiks which could easily be used for jumping past the knot. Someone mentioned earlier that they wouldn't use knots with a 30 meter "glacier " rope. A team of two using this short rope can find themselves in trouble. (with or without knots) Either the team is 90 feet apart or 50 feet apart and each carries 20 feet of rope. (of course the distance could be between 50 and 90 feet and this would change the amount carried but not the point) If they are the full 30m apart, then there is no rope to make a z-pulley. Bad. If they are 50 feet apart and have 20 feet extra, then there is not enough rope to rappel to the victim if need be. An unconscious upside down climber will die and needs to be uprighted and maybe given cpr. Does this happen often? Of course not. But it would suck if it did. IMO, I would rather be ready to handle the most likely hazard on the glacier than save the weight of 30m of 8.5 mil rope.

On the topic of putting knots in the rope for glacier travel, I take a different view. The knots in the rope is a technique used for rope teams of two. Has anyone ever tried to hold a crevasse fall alone? Especially when you are not expecting it? Even with good self arrest skills, it CAN be very hard to hold a crevasse fall. (like getting pulled onto your back) The knots should dig into the snow, relieving the arrester of some of the forces. The worst case condition is if both people fall in and anything to help prevent this is a good thing. As to the problem with hauling and ascending the rope with knots in it, yes this can be a problem. But each climber should have enough rope in rescue coils to reach the other. This would be true wether or not you use knots in the rope. The surface climber needs to be able to rappel to the victim and down prussiking is not a option. So with this rescue coil rope, simply clear a lip to the side, throw down the extra rope and let the climber prussik out on the clean knotless line. Or haul with this line. I can see no disadvantage of using the knots in the line (maybe the knots getting stuck in weird chunkies, but have never experienced it myself) and only advantages in helping me arrest the fall. Of course knots would not be needed for teams of three or more. Also, of course there in no excuse for traveling roped up on a glacier without good self arrest skills. I usually use a simple overhand knot (which can not be undone when weighted) about halfway between the climbers and then another about 6 feet to either side. You generally need a long (60m) rope to be able to give enough room between climbers and still have enough rope for the rescue coils. rescue coil (75 feet each) and between climbers (50 feet plus a few knots) Better yet, don't fall in.

Should have done my homework first and checked out a guidebook. Looks like the anchor on library ledge are for inconoclast. There is another new anchor straight down that are not for iconoclast. With a brief look around, I didn't see any bolts between these anchors so I assumed it was a rappel route. If it is a route, then it would be a pucker route as I didn't see any bolts with the quick glance I gave. Slinging the chicken heads? If the anchors don't go to the ground, then it would be a worthy, karma building, venture to finish the anchors to the ground. Anyone interested in helping me?

Was up on outerspace this saturday and I noticed two nice rappel anchors to the climbers left of outerspace. One being out about 15 feet on library ledge and the other about 50 meters (maybe 60m !) down from this other anchor. These are shiny new bolts with a couple of links, modern fancy rappel setups. Anybody know if there are more new anchors that will get one to the ground? Or after these two bolted station, normal old anchors (trees and chockstones) are used? Are there anchors to get from the top of the climb to library ledge? Does one need two ropes? Or are there more anchors than I saw allowing one single line to be used? BTW, the climbing on snow creek wall is pretty good right now. (outerspace and orbit known good, others looked good) We were climbing in tshirts when the sun was out. There is a big snow patch on the top which does melt off and bring water down, but it is way off to the side of outerspace. The route was dry except for the last short pitch on big chicken heads. In the afternoon, maybe the melt off will go in the hand cracks. The snow probably won't be there by next weekend. Was cool kicking steps with rock shoes in it though. (not) The approach is fine with some snow in the valley bottom. We had regular tennies and did OK with wet feet. Once again, I doubt the majority of the snow will be there next week. Very little snow (only near the base of the wall) on the walk down descent to the base. thanks gene

While there is relatively no avi hazard, that doesn't you will be free for falling stuff. While rappeling down, we were in this sheltered belay when a LARGE chunk of ice fell off (due to the sunny exposure) and then broke into thousands of pieces which flew over our sheltered position. Was pretty cool to see from the safe vantage but would have really sucked to be in the shooting gallery. Just as bad as a avi. Get a early start. Great climb though and well worth the drive. You might find that locating the loggin road difficult. No worries though. Ask a local were the Gibraltar wall is as most of them are familiar with the place.

Heard on the morning news that Craig Kelly was one of the victims. For people who don't know, he was the original snowboard legend from the start. Baker local and inspiration for us old school boarders. Tons of back country experience.

I have done lots of placing and pulling on pickets in the cascades summer snow. Pulled many a man and woman out of slots here. IMO, the 18" picket is very adequate for crevase rescue. You will have two of these 18" pickets equalized for the anchor I assume. 2 of these 18" pickets equalized is stronger than one 3' picket alone, as there is more snow holding the picket in place. (buried deadman style) The snow that holds the deadman is not only the snow directly in front but a bit to the sides as well. For fun (???) we bury various crazy things and see if we can yank it out. Even with three big guys and a static cord we couldn't get Nalgenes and softball sized rocks out of GOOD HARD snow. So if these things will work, why not a short picket? For summer use, cut one 3' picket up and save the other 3' for crazy winter use.

Last time I was in there, Second Bounce didn't sell all kinds of used climbing gear. They are selective about the used climbing gear they will sell. They won't sell used rock pro, harnesses or even aiders & daisies. Second bounce is subject to the same litigation that other retail stores are. Retailers would get hit if a law suit was to happen. Look at previous cases, such as the big Chouinard lawsuit. Accident happens (lets assume gear failure) and the estate forms a suit. The lawyers go against everyone they can find with any possible connection. If a store has a policy that they accept used gear, then they are automatically forced to prove that the gear that failed wasn't tampered with by a previous owner. That is the damn society we live in, which works for the most part. I used to work in a small climbing retail store part time. We took back things like axes and crampons and such. But we didn't know what we were doing anyway.

at first thought, I was thinking that a fixed line above to back up your newbee friend might be a good idea. The thought of having a less experienced person catch a fall sends shivers. But we all started out not knowing crap right? Plus, I assume there is a message you want to give to your friend that you trust their abilities. If I was in your rock shoes, I would have another person backup your bud by holding the brake line incase your new belayer botches it up. That way you can go higher for a less stressful and jarring fall. Anyway: classic crack in l-worth. clean fall but hard for your friend clamshell cave. one of the 5.7's octupus's garden in squish. not as steep but ok fall I believe all of the smoke bluffs. sure you will find whatever there indoor rock gym. steep and clean and easy and dry to boot good luck.

I got a pair a couple of years ago. Pretty nice pair of pants at a good price. Wore them everyday in AK. Some people won't like to side zipper cause it is not easy to take the pants off without taking the boots off but venting is much easier without the zipper going all the way up. I haven't used AT boots with them but I think they will fit over. Taking a crap wearing it is not as easy as other pants (no rainbow or butt crack zipper) but how often do we need to crap with the pants on anyway? Definately get the suspenders with them.

A lot of comments to the affect that few people have experienced rope burn, except for the previous post. People have held 60 footers. How many people have held a fall factor 1 or more? Not me. Pluggin in the numbers in the petzl fall simulator shows that there are lots of slippage in fall factor 1 or more when held with a slot device. Catching a BIG fall (fall factor 1) with all this slippage would be very difficult. If the slippage burns the hand, who can say they would not let go? Gloves sure would mitigate this hazard. If you are looking at climbs with big fall poteintail, using gloves while belaying would be a good idea. For this situation, you might want to anchor the belayer down as well. That said, I have never used belay gloves while craggin (except for red rocks with all the prickly desert shwacking) but might consider getting a cheap pair.

Be extremely aware of the avi hazard at the ice caves. Avi's are the reason there is ice there at all. With all the recent snow and fluctuating freezing levels, there is a good chance a big fatty will crush you and your partner. With that said, have fun!

Lots of good friends came by for a birthday party for the little woman. Then some stayed the night and hung out today while the rain dumped outside. Then had the pleasure to deal with offers to buy a house.

Wondering if anyone ever had a wierd chemical reaction with cytomax like I did this summer. I was loading up my dromedary bag with glacier water and regular amounts of cytomax. The grains of cytomax didn't dissolve but absorbed water and became little mushy balls about the size of a grain of rice. The entire dromedary was full of these granules and tasted real bland. (had to try of course which probably wasn't a smart thing to do) I have used aquamira in this bladder many times before but the bladder was rinsed out before. Could chlorine dioxide (or the phosphoric acid) be leaching out of the dromedary? Could residual chlorine dioxide (or the phosphoric acid) be reacting with cytomax to prevent it from dissolving? Maybe the water was too cold for dissolving?

Real ironic that you, cavey, call berdinka a "pussy". Both Leahy and Berdinka both use their real names in the posts yet you HIDE behind your "Cpt Caveman" shield of anonymity. IMO, you are the "pussy". Now go ahead and threaten me too. I wonder how long it will take for you to reply.