Bronco

Me and a buddy did the route from the notch after bagging the N. Peak about 10 years ago. Nothing too memorable/noteworthy about the S. Peak route, bushwack III and some 3rd class scrambling on the west side of the peak. We weren't intending to include the S. Peak but the route looked short and obvious from the N. Peak and we were ahead of schedule so we went ahead with it. Didn't get any photos as the clouds were pretty low. Hope that helps.

Your mom wears a tin foil hat!

Tough to do a lot of ice climbing around here. Would it be possible for you to go to Bozeman instead?

I had this happen last week but don't think it has anything to do with CC.com. I received returned emails as "blocked" from msn.com, gmail.com, hotmail.com and live.com on 11/29 but it seemed to have been resolved by 11/30. What did you guys do to my computer and iPhone??? Moderators!!!

I've descended from Camp Muir via GPS in a whiteout. Having a partner sure made me feel a lot better, I can't imagine being alone and having no perspective. There were times when I felt like I was about to ski off a big drop and threw myself down to make an immediate stop only to find I was hardly moving. Glad the guy made it out and for the rescuers.

I agree with you Powderhound, that's why I said an "additional" hour from Big Sky. I drove Gallatin Canyon for 5 years living in BZ and working in Big Sky. If the OP wanted to stay in BS, would you suggest he consider checking out Beehive Basin? I never made it in there in the winter and not sure how frequently ice forms up. I do know I was disappointed with the Ousel Falls area (near the BS Meadows) and wouldn't recommend it.

Probably looking at an additional hour of driving (each way) from Big Sky. Could be more if road conditions are bad.

Back 'atcha redneck!

Hard to improve on the trusty dusty lightweight wind shirt for those particular activities. Except they don't look as extreme.

I had the same issue 100% of the time and eventually switched to Google Chrome. No issues since then. I think I was using the most recent version of IE.

So it sounds like we get a PhD if we reach 40,000 posts? Did I read that right?

[video:youtube]

I agree, there were TWO good ball games on last night.

Like every other piece of gear, headlamps come down to having multiple to choose from, depending on what you're doing and what time of year it is. Here's mine: Older (2006?) BD spot is still my "go to" lamp and only has three settings, off, low beam and high beam. Simple, effective and not real heavy or bulky, seems adequate for most climbing/skiing stuff and says put on my head/helmet. Trusty old (2001?) Petzl arctic Zoom with it's worn out elastic has been relegated to cleaning up dog poop in the dark months of winter when good lighting is critical, lest ye step into an errant pile of poo that ruins my good shoes. This thing won't die. Fancy Mammut Lucido TX-1 that is my dedicated bike commuting lamp (along with a fixed headlight/tailight mounted on the bike), good strong high beam and red flashers on the back so I don't get run over by a smartphone texting teenage driver. With the single band around the perimeter of my head, this one isn't as secure as the BD Spot and I acutally zip tie it to my biking helmet for the winter. I also have a $10 black diamond 3oz light for camping/backpacking and a similar petzl tikka for the same use. The only reason I bought this BD is that I lost the Tikka only to find it later inside the pocket of a pack. Lesson learned - always get your light out and on your head before it gets dark, especially if it's a smaller one.

I have a pair of the TLT mountain and a pair of Dynafit Zzeros and the Zzeros run wider as do most of Dynafit's other boots (just not the TLT series).

Are you sure it wasn't wetslide?

Golite - I ordered one and sent it back, too much mesh that would collect snow and no good place for crampons. Like someone else said, not really designed for climbing. BD Speed 40 - Have one that I've used a fair amount, Like the shape, roll top, removable waist belt padding (wish the gear loops stayed on the webbing though), big expansion sleeve. Don't like the rope strap, frame sheet (collapses if pack not loaded just right) finally decided I don't like the string axe holders, just too delicate. BD Epic 45 - Considered but too heavy. I also have the WT Guide Pack that Kurt Hicks suggested. My thermorest prolite 3 pad (womens ) folded up into 1/8th replaces the factory pad that serves as the frame. Really like this pack and it's become my go to alpine pack. I do like the design of the Cilo Gear packs and will probably check them out when I need a new one.

For some reason, downtown Everett didn't make the list.

I'm pretty average fitness and having done the route in July took about 11 hours round trip from Boston Basin. Figure another 2.5 hours up and 1.5 hours down from the trailhead to Boston Basin for a total of 15-16 hours which I think is pretty average for a car to car attempt of a competent and fit party. The snow in the north cascades is much deeper than what you'd expect in September. Looks more like a mid-summer snow pack on an average year. You might call the Marblemount Ranger Station and ask if they've got any recent conditions updates.

Looks like Mission fired up the snow guns early this year - http://www.wenatcheewebcam.com/missionridge.html

No Rules, just get in a single file line and watch out for the birds pooping all over the entrance. Standard grocery store line etiquette probably applies in that if someone attempts to cut in line, you can either passivly ignore them or choose to create some loud confrontation. I've picked up permits for Boston Basin on a Saturday afternoon for Sat-Sun-Mon so I wouldn't drive past just because there are folks in line. Like you said, there's lots to do so they may not be going in to Boston Basin just because they are in line for a permit. That being said, it's wise to have some alternative objectives.

It's fun!

I think I also climbed the W. Ridge in 2007. Great area with none of the crowds, permits, on route clusters... Hoping to go back sometime for the NE Arete. Keenwesh, you can always take up skiing but you'll ruin your perspective on Cascade Range snow conditions.

Since there is a new EA does that mean we need to submit new comments?

Tom, very inspiring TR and photos, you've covered more ground in the last few weeks than than most of us will in a year (or more).