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Everything posted by Bronco
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Trout Creek this weekend carpool from PDX
Bronco replied to powderhound's topic in Climbing Partners
You might be too late! http://crag.org/2012/02/02/trout-creek-closed-to-climbing/ -
The Mantra does have a distinctly rounded and turned up tail that looks like a tip to me. Maybe that's not considered "twin tip" any more. My buddy was definelty getting manhandled by the boards and I thought it was worth mentioning.
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More just a caution about twin tips in BC conditions & terrain than anything against Volkl. I have a pair of Volkl resort skis and like them a lot. I guess it has to do with a backseat stance as well. Obviously, some skis are more forgiving than others. It was interesting to observe my buddy struggling in steep and chalky snow if he was in the backseat at all.
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FWIW, I spent a couple of days skiing with a friend who is a good athlete and snowboarder but has only been skiing for three years. At the advice of some guys at the ski shop, he bought Volkl Mantas and is really having a hard time skiing aggressively enough to stay over the front of the ski as is recommended (mandated?) with the twin tip design in steeper and deeper terrain. Some of the skis recommended here are very similar designs and depending on what kind of skier you are, may want to give it some consideration. Personally, I prefer the traditional (square) tails. I really like the K2 lineup of BC skis currently, you might check them out. I ski Dynafit Comforts (on old Tuas) for strictly back country and Marker Barons (on K2 backstashs) for side country/resort and like them each for the different uses.
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Best routes to learn to climb cracks in the NW
Bronco replied to KyleJ's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
jesus boadman, he said he wants to learn to NOT be intimidated by cracks, and this is the list you give the poor fellow?!? may I humbly suggest the following: -Ultra Brutal; -Great Northern Slab; -Aries perhaps; -Taurus rings a bell... and yes, -Toxic Shock is a good teacher. How about the Lizard at GNS area? I always thought that was the funnest route over there. -
Can I dig a snow cave with those plastic boards?
Bronco replied to Marmot Prince's topic in Climber's Board
Guess it's time for a new shovel! -
As I watched the video, I kept thinking, just get your own shovel and dig!!!
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Not from me. It is something I believe we've all wrestled with and I was just kind of curious about "le crap". I don't doubt the info Mr. Frieh posted but it seems a little subjective for my pea brain to relate to. Here's some fun facts: Say a 175lb guy drinks one half bottle (two six oz glasses) of red wine each night which is moderate by most standards. That's about 250 calories which takes approximately 25 minutes of running at 5mph for that guy to burn off. Seems counterproductive for most athletes. Say that guy spends $10/bottle for the wine. That's $1,825.00 per year or $152/month. If that guy's spouse consumes the same amount, it's $3,650/year. What else could one do with that money? A week in Maui right now sounds pretty nice. One doesn’t have to be a heavy drinker for it to negatively impact the quality of life. Yet, most of us (myself included) chug away regardless of the outcome. Kind of strange. Like having 1000 channels of stuff on TV with nothing compelling to watch but continuing to channel surf. I'm as guilty as anyone. That's the "crap" that ruminates around my middle-aged head (and gut). Am I going to do anything about it besides anonymously complaining on the internet? With my 40th birthday around the corner, I just might.
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Care to elaborate on "the crap"?
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yes, see story here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1046163/TR_Chair_Peak_North_Face_12_3_#Post1046163
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Consider using a lightweight locker if you're not sure what the correct orientation is.
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Dynafit Radical: Dear Dynafit community, We are writing to inform you about an issue related to our new Radical bindings. We have discovered a quite specific and unlikely circumstance that can lead to the heel unit being damaged. Since identifying this issue, our international team has been working hard on understanding the issue and finding a solution. After intensive testing, we are confident this identified damage DOES NOT present a safety risk. But at the same time, we aim to take a proactive leadership approach and as a result are communicating a “required technical upgrade of the Radical series”. This includes all bindings in the RADICAL series, including RADICAL ST, RADICAL FT, and SPEED RADICAL. Details on the issue and the solution: Issue: The damage can happen when the heel unit is subjected to forces in a particular way. This particular arrangement of forces is pretty rare. In the ascent mode (when the heel unit is in “lock” or “tour” position) the housing may be damaged if the unit is strongly impacted in a counter-clockwise direction (back towards “ski mode”) causing the internal PIN to strongly impact against the internal housing wall. Damage can only occur in ascent mode, not in the descent (or “ski” mode). (Editor’s note from Lou: This is simply the pin that’s supposed to allow you to only rotate the heel unit in the clockwise direction, as indicated on top of the binding in red.) Even if the housing is damaged, the binding should still release perfectly in any mode, and there is little danger of the heel unit detaching. Therefore this does not constitute an acute danger or risk for the skier. Essentially after the damage, the binding functions similar to a TLT Vertical binding which doesn’t have a PIN in the back unit (this “lock position” was introduced to prevent the inconvenient – and fairly rare – rotation of the heel unit back into ski mode, while touring). Solution: The good news is we can eliminate the risk of damage. This is achieved by a quick and easy exchange of the small PIN which is within the heel housing. For bindings in the market, this exchange can be completed without having to return the bindings. Please see the attached visual and written description of the solution. Details on next steps: Dynafit inventory – We will hold additional sales of Radical bindings until our existing inventory has received this technical upgrade. We expect this will be complete by the second week of January (week of January 9). In the meantime, we have availability in Vertical ST and Vertical FT bindings. Dealer inventory – We are requesting dealers also hold sales of current Radical bindings until they have completed the required technical upgrade. This upgrade can be completed after we ship the replacement PINS to dealers, with a target ship date of the second week of January (week of January 9). In the meantime, dealers have the ability to sell the Vertical series of bindings. In addition to any dealer inventory, we have Vertical FT’s and ST’s in stock, as well as Speed Superlights. Consumers – We are also requesting consumers with Radical bindings to undertake the required technical upgrade. This can happen in one of three ways: We can send PINS to the consumer to replace themselves. The consumer can bring the bindings to a retailer for the upgrade. The consumer can call us for a return authorization, and then return the binding directly to Dynafit in Boulder, Colorado for the upgrade. In the meantime and into the future of course, we will continue to honor any valid warranty claims for bindings that incur damage to the heel unit. THANK YOU for your understanding and your partnership in working through this matter together. We appreciate your support, and we are at your service. – Your team at Dynafit North America
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I would venture a guess that the attorney is risking consequences from the WSBA and a malpractice lawsuit if they've shown negligence or incompetence in representing a client. I use attorneys a fair amount in business and that the only standard I'm aware of. It does beg the question, why would someone use an attorney who's not qualified for a certain area of law? The client may have some responsibility here to investigate the specialty of their legal representative. It’s usually important stuff they are doing for you.
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I'm with Gene, there isn't really a single glove that covers the range of conditions for AT skiing. I typically skin up in windstopper or thin softshell glove and put on something heavier (like my resort ski glove) for the ride down. Personally, I don't care for gauntlet gloves, they're cumbersome and expensive. My favorite insulated glove is the BD Kingpin and also have an older version of the Legend Glove. I don't think I've ever paid more than $50 for a pair of gloves except once, a pair of BD Guide gloves (I think that's the model) and despite doing a lot of cold weather touring when we lived in MT (sub zero), hardly have ever worn them. http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/ski/snow-gloves
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Thanks for the info. I was just looking to see if they were available independant of a garment so I could duct tape it in our kids boot or helmet in case they were to fall into a tree well or something when out riding with friends. It seemed like a reasonable and potentially inexpensive safty measure but aparantly not. We do emphasize the notion of skiing with friends and looking out for each other but remember the days when I was 13 and it was always a race to the bottom. If someone didn't make it out right away, we generally assumed they must have decided to go somewhere else. She's still a few years from venturing into the back country but I guess it's time for her and her friends to take venturing "off piste" a little more seriously.
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I think they've been on back order at Mountain Gear since 2008 and get the impression that they are only obtainable in garments like a new jacket. Sort of strange but I can understand the economics behind the decision to manipulate supply that way.
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Does anyone have a source for buying individual recco reflectors? Seems like a good thing to have in the side country. Not really interested in buying another coat just want the reflector.
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Good work getting yourself out of there, hope you heal quick.
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I've been using these for about a year: http://www.amazon.com/ProSource-Exercise-Fitness-Gymnastic-Rings/dp/B0031QCS8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322849761&sr=8-1 I had some super ghetto home made rings for a year before and decided to invest the $37 in a nicer set. They are placed approximatly 24" appart.
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Reposted from Dane's blog comments:
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Looks a little like the Beartooths to me.
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1922 Film: 1st Winter Ascent of Mt Rainier
Bronco replied to Lowell_Skoog's topic in Climber's Board
Thanks for sharing that Lowell, what a great find! -
...AVALANCHE WARNING MONDAY AFTERNOON THROUGH TUESDAY NIGHT... Monday and Monday night: High avalanche danger above 4000 feet and considerable below and increasing. Greatest danger expected on north through east facing terrain. Significantly increasing avalanche danger Monday night becoming high below 7000 feet. Very dangerous avalanche conditions developing Monday night with natural avalanches likely. Tuesday and Tuesday night: Avalanche danger becoming extreme above 5000 feet and high below. Natural avalanches are certain with large to very large avalanches in many areas. Avoid all avalanche terrain.
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I think there are lot's of climbers who use it as part of their work out regimen. regardless of what exercise you do, you'll probably need to track calorie in vs calorie out to lose fat. I've gone back and forth between weight training and cross fit in my garage gym 2-3 times per week. The weight training seems more effective at building power but the Cross Fit really helps me with dynamic movement and core strength. This is in conjunction with 4-5 cardio/endurance workouts per week, either trail running or road biking. I agree with the other posters, the cross fit will do very little to help with endurance, you'll need to do that in addition to the cross fit. I wouldn't worry about adding bulk. What kind of routes are you training for? What kind of training are you doing now? All I can say about the importance of a good warmup is that when I do a Cross Fit workout on the tail of a 40 minute bike ride, I don't get sore. If I run on the treadmill for 10 minutes to break a sweat and then do the cross fit warmup exercises for another 10 minutes, I am ususally sore the next day. Cool down doesen't seem to have much to do with it for me. Here's the cross fit workout I typically do, it usually takes me about 30 minutes: 50 x 24" box jump 50 x jumping pullup 50 x walking lunge 50 x knees to elbows 50 x KB Swing (1 pood) 50 x Push press (45lb) 50 x back extension 50 x wall ball (20lb) 50 x burpee (suck!) 50 x double under (jump rope) I can't climb any harder but, I'm a better athlete and enjoy the sports I participate in more.
