Bronco

I've also used the Raven Pro with a small Charlet Moser third tool hammer for years on a lot of different routes. I really like how comfortable the Raven is to carry in cane position. I can think of several times where a slight bend in the shaft would've been preferable. This axe looks pretty sweet but I'm a little skeptical about the riveted pick tip. Anyone use one? http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/ice-axes/camp-corsa-nanotech.html

Hi Sig: I'm curious as to why you chose the Titanium version. Care to share what steered you to that decision?

Those Mont Blanc look like a newer version the Scparpa Matterhorn and probably a great general mountaineering boot. If you do go with a full leather boot, don't forget to start breaking them in as soon as you get them. I beleive the only downside to the full leather and stiffer shank is the prolonged break-in as compared to a synthetic boot.

Hi Greg: I have a pair of Charmoz that I really like for everything except snow climbs and would suggest you consider a full leather Scarpa for snow/glacier routes. They will outlast the Charmoz which have had some durability issues. I also have a pair of old Scarpa Matterhorn (full leather) boots that were my first pair of real mountaineering boots. They are bomber and still going strong after many glacier and snow climbs. Good luck!

Sounds like a pretty good training regiment. If you can find a long snow slope that's convenient, hauling a heavy pack up and down will best prepare your nervous sytem for the strain of the aproach and climb. FWIW I used a shovel at Camp Muir once to keep our tent from collapsing in an unforcasted heavy snow event. Not a bad idea to bring to base camp.

Isn't that acess road typically covered in snow until June?

Gear looks pretty well dialed in to me. I'd be more interested in your training program with three months to go before your climb. If you don't get stormed out the next most likely cause of failure is lack of fitness. Gear is somewhere down the line after that. Tenacity and fitness will get you a lot farther than the latest and greatest gear. I've climbed with guys on Rainier who wore army surplus wool pants on a 16 hour car to car climb. I think I hauled a 4 pound Eddie Bauer parka to the top and back that day, along with 3 cans of Rainier Beer that we were too nautious to drink on the summit. Anyway, what's your training program look like?

Yes, take a course in Bozeman. Continental vs Coastal snow packs behave differently.

Good Article on Heuristic Traps: http://avalancheinfo.net/Newsletters%20and%20Articles/Articles/McCammonHTraps.pdf

Nice job on the winter ascent, the photos are great! Just curious, did you forget your rope at Muir or just happen to not be roped up in the photos? edited to add that I understand it is customary to cross the ledges unroped, just a little unconventional to continue unroped for the glacier portion between the top of Gib rock and the crater.

Do the Mansalus match your pants/jacket/pack? I can't beleive this was overlooked in this important thread!

You might be too late! http://crag.org/2012/02/02/trout-creek-closed-to-climbing/

The Mantra does have a distinctly rounded and turned up tail that looks like a tip to me. Maybe that's not considered "twin tip" any more. My buddy was definelty getting manhandled by the boards and I thought it was worth mentioning.

More just a caution about twin tips in BC conditions & terrain than anything against Volkl. I have a pair of Volkl resort skis and like them a lot. I guess it has to do with a backseat stance as well. Obviously, some skis are more forgiving than others. It was interesting to observe my buddy struggling in steep and chalky snow if he was in the backseat at all.

FWIW, I spent a couple of days skiing with a friend who is a good athlete and snowboarder but has only been skiing for three years. At the advice of some guys at the ski shop, he bought Volkl Mantas and is really having a hard time skiing aggressively enough to stay over the front of the ski as is recommended (mandated?) with the twin tip design in steeper and deeper terrain. Some of the skis recommended here are very similar designs and depending on what kind of skier you are, may want to give it some consideration. Personally, I prefer the traditional (square) tails. I really like the K2 lineup of BC skis currently, you might check them out. I ski Dynafit Comforts (on old Tuas) for strictly back country and Marker Barons (on K2 backstashs) for side country/resort and like them each for the different uses.

jesus boadman, he said he wants to learn to NOT be intimidated by cracks, and this is the list you give the poor fellow?!? may I humbly suggest the following: -Ultra Brutal; -Great Northern Slab; -Aries perhaps; -Taurus rings a bell... and yes, -Toxic Shock is a good teacher. How about the Lizard at GNS area? I always thought that was the funnest route over there.

Guess it's time for a new shovel!

Dan: I was thinking about you on Sunday while skiing at the Mt. Baker Resort and staring at Shuksan wondering what adventures you might be up to on such an an incredible sunny day. Thanks for sharing.

As I watched the video, I kept thinking, just get your own shovel and dig!!!

Not from me. It is something I believe we've all wrestled with and I was just kind of curious about "le crap". I don't doubt the info Mr. Frieh posted but it seems a little subjective for my pea brain to relate to. Here's some fun facts: Say a 175lb guy drinks one half bottle (two six oz glasses) of red wine each night which is moderate by most standards. That's about 250 calories which takes approximately 25 minutes of running at 5mph for that guy to burn off. Seems counterproductive for most athletes. Say that guy spends $10/bottle for the wine. That's $1,825.00 per year or $152/month. If that guy's spouse consumes the same amount, it's $3,650/year. What else could one do with that money? A week in Maui right now sounds pretty nice. One doesn’t have to be a heavy drinker for it to negatively impact the quality of life. Yet, most of us (myself included) chug away regardless of the outcome. Kind of strange. Like having 1000 channels of stuff on TV with nothing compelling to watch but continuing to channel surf. I'm as guilty as anyone. That's the "crap" that ruminates around my middle-aged head (and gut). Am I going to do anything about it besides anonymously complaining on the internet? With my 40th birthday around the corner, I just might.

Care to elaborate on "the crap"?

yes, see story here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1046163/TR_Chair_Peak_North_Face_12_3_#Post1046163

Consider using a lightweight locker if you're not sure what the correct orientation is.

Dynafit Radical: Dear Dynafit community, We are writing to inform you about an issue related to our new Radical bindings. We have discovered a quite specific and unlikely circumstance that can lead to the heel unit being damaged. Since identifying this issue, our international team has been working hard on understanding the issue and finding a solution. After intensive testing, we are confident this identified damage DOES NOT present a safety risk. But at the same time, we aim to take a proactive leadership approach and as a result are communicating a “required technical upgrade of the Radical series”. This includes all bindings in the RADICAL series, including RADICAL ST, RADICAL FT, and SPEED RADICAL. Details on the issue and the solution: Issue: The damage can happen when the heel unit is subjected to forces in a particular way. This particular arrangement of forces is pretty rare. In the ascent mode (when the heel unit is in “lock” or “tour” position) the housing may be damaged if the unit is strongly impacted in a counter-clockwise direction (back towards “ski mode”) causing the internal PIN to strongly impact against the internal housing wall. Damage can only occur in ascent mode, not in the descent (or “ski” mode). (Editor’s note from Lou: This is simply the pin that’s supposed to allow you to only rotate the heel unit in the clockwise direction, as indicated on top of the binding in red.) Even if the housing is damaged, the binding should still release perfectly in any mode, and there is little danger of the heel unit detaching. Therefore this does not constitute an acute danger or risk for the skier. Essentially after the damage, the binding functions similar to a TLT Vertical binding which doesn’t have a PIN in the back unit (this “lock position” was introduced to prevent the inconvenient – and fairly rare – rotation of the heel unit back into ski mode, while touring). Solution: The good news is we can eliminate the risk of damage. This is achieved by a quick and easy exchange of the small PIN which is within the heel housing. For bindings in the market, this exchange can be completed without having to return the bindings. Please see the attached visual and written description of the solution. Details on next steps: Dynafit inventory – We will hold additional sales of Radical bindings until our existing inventory has received this technical upgrade. We expect this will be complete by the second week of January (week of January 9). In the meantime, we have availability in Vertical ST and Vertical FT bindings. Dealer inventory – We are requesting dealers also hold sales of current Radical bindings until they have completed the required technical upgrade. This upgrade can be completed after we ship the replacement PINS to dealers, with a target ship date of the second week of January (week of January 9). In the meantime, dealers have the ability to sell the Vertical series of bindings. In addition to any dealer inventory, we have Vertical FT’s and ST’s in stock, as well as Speed Superlights. Consumers – We are also requesting consumers with Radical bindings to undertake the required technical upgrade. This can happen in one of three ways: We can send PINS to the consumer to replace themselves. The consumer can bring the bindings to a retailer for the upgrade. The consumer can call us for a return authorization, and then return the binding directly to Dynafit in Boulder, Colorado for the upgrade. In the meantime and into the future of course, we will continue to honor any valid warranty claims for bindings that incur damage to the heel unit. THANK YOU for your understanding and your partnership in working through this matter together. We appreciate your support, and we are at your service. – Your team at Dynafit North America

Hi I have a pair of Black Diamond Viper Leashes that came with a pair of used vipers I purchased a couple of years ago and promptly replaced with the spinner leash. Just noticed them and figured someone around here might use them - $40 Either PM or email - ryan at rpmcousa dot com