Bronco

How difficult would it be to make a mobile app?

I was putting in a contact this morning in the office restroom and some uncouth Neanderthal just walked right past me to the stall and started pooping like I wasn't even there. Please try to keep the following protocol in mind at the office and take care of your business at home if at all possible. [video:youtube]gUEu0O_oo0g

I'm sure everyone has their reasons for not posting as frequently. Life is busy and I don't get out much. Also, as I get older, I'm realizing my comments are probably not as witty or important as I thought they were in 2001. I think racked up pretty close to 3,000 posts from whenever I registered through 2004 and now try to limit posts to what I hope will help someone sort through gear or provide what little route info my meager brain is able to recall. Not so much of the spray or "good job" on some anonymous person's TR. I greatly appreciate the opportunity to kill a few minutes reading up on the website when I can. Got me through some pretty boring days. Thanks to Jon, Timmy and Oly (and the rest of you rich 1% moderators).

Anyone have new stories? I've made out very well with the last several partners from CC.com but still have a couple from long ago: Over 10 years ago I had a couple of experiences taking "5.10" climbers to Index on separate occasions that were awesome. One involved an Iranian who insisted on belaying me with his figure 8 device in belay mode while he stomped on my rope. He was pretty convinced the Iranian Army was the end all be all of climbing instruction. I wasn't quite sure how to respond and feigned a stomach bug. The other one had never climbed outdoors (unbeknownst to me) and had a difficult time with the exposure on Great Northern Slab, which we climbed first. We then went over to the Lizard and he totally lost his composure on the roof/undercling while I belayed from above, oblivious and unable to hear his cries to be lowered until the train passed. I finally lowered him back to the belay and rapped over the roof to get him settled down and finish the rap. Kind of awkward ride home but he went on to climb a bunch of stuff in the ensuing years so it must not have been as traumatic as it appeared.

You could consider doing the Emmons Glacier (if you haven't already) to get the descent route dialed and see how your body is at over 14,000'. It sounds as if you've got some good experience in moving over scary (but not difficult) terrain that is not really prudent to spend a bunch of time looking for protection. I'd wager that physical conditioning and mental toughness are more important than technical climbing ability on Liberty Ridge. Any routes on Johannesburg or Mt. Index would be good conditioning and similar type of stress in my opinion.

??? Wrong mountain I think he may have meant the 1978 Klewin-McNerthney route on the Middle Peak but I think Bibler was on the first winter Index Traverse team so not too far off. The N. Norwegian Buttress looks like it's ready to tip over from that angle

Good stuff Jason, appreciate your assessment and thoughts.

Length Sounds about right. I know a lot of folks who are real happy with the Dynafit Manaslu, (including myself) for an all around ski. It's relatively light considering the width. Easy to install your bindings on the factory inserts as well.

Si Senor - http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation/?cid=fsbdev3_053607#emap

Scott, check this out: http://getstrongergolonger.squarespace.com/journal/2013/2/18/making-it-better-dynafit-movement-pants.html Seems like a lot of work to me but worth a shot if you can sew.

Are you talking specifically about the TLT buckle rubbing a hole on the outer ankle area when in walk mode? I have some Arcteryx pants that I'm thinking I'll reinforce the inside of the pant leg with some duct tape in that spot before the hole appears. Oh, and yes, you probably ski enough that you'll wear out most pants in 2 seasons. The Arcteryx Gamma SK are the best softshell ski pant I've used.

If you don't have any luck with the warranty, you might consider using parchment paper or brown paper bags on the glue and a hot iron to sort of "renew" the glue. Worked well for me with an old pair of BD skins. I started with a low iron temperature and slowly increased the heat, it didn't take much heat to soften up the glue. You can probably search the web for more detailed info on the process.

Can we get a paper on the appropriate use of ropeguns as they pertain to the mitigation of risk to middle aged couch potatoes? <--- middle aged couch potato guy

Primaloft lasts a long time and I think is superior to down for the damp PNW belay jacket. Just make sure you check which version of the insulation is in a given jacket, the PL1 is apparently the best: http://www.primaloft.com/en/performance/products/primaloft-one.html

It my understanding that to qualify as a Level 1 class they have to include *8 hours of training in the field. *see post below by Chris, appears I'm off on the 8 hours in the field, more like 16.

Hi Ben: I don't think any organization is going to offer a class that skirts the "book" on any safety issue. I don't know anyone (myself included) who's taken a Level 1 class and said "that was a huge waste of time". There really are no shortcuts and I'm sure there are some classes offered around Portland that you'd learn a lot. Also - get out and tour with guys who know more than you, ask a lot of questions and enjoy the process. Generally speaking, good days for skiing are bad days for climbing so that helps.

I haven't been out to index in a few years but I wonder about thinning (removing?) the vegetation from between the road and parking lot to increase visibility. Anyone know if the state would allow such work to be conducted by volunteers?

Citations issued in Grand Teton, Yellowstone The Associated Press POSTED: 10/08/2013 11:29:10 AM MDT3 COMMENTS UPDATED: 10/08/2013 12:06:33 PM MDT JACKSON, Wyo.—National Park Service rangers in Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks have been issuing trespassing citations to people found in the parks, which have been shuttered amid the budget impasse in Washington. "We have issued nine citations," Grand Teton park spokeswoman Jenny Anzelmo-Sarles said Monday. The citations have primarily been over the last two days, she said. In addition to assessing fines, rangers have warned other park visitors and turned still others around, Anzelmo-Sarles said. Anzelmo-Sarles didn't have the dollar amount of the fines handy. In addition to closure violations, citations for taking a vehicle off-road and for resource damage have also been issued in recent days, she told the Jackson Hole News & Guide. In Yellowstone National Park, there have been no "widespread" issues regarding closure violations, spokesman Al Nash said. "I know a few citations have been written," Nash said. "We do have a fairly robust boundary patrol in conjunction with hunting season on land surrounding the park." The national parks closed last week after Congress and the White House deadlocked over spending priorities and the new health care law. About 510 National Park Service employees in both parks have been furloughed. People cited for trespassing in Grand Teton included cyclists, runners and drivers taking vehicles around temporary barricades. "For the most part, people have been very good and we appreciate the help of the local community," Anzelmo-Sarles said. "There is still a very small percentage of people who have lashed out and actively tried to violate closures." One person earned a citation after an illegal excursion ran long and his tardiness returning worried his friends. "There was one individual on (Saturday) who was given a citation after biking to Death Canyon and then running into Alaska Basin with the intent to run down Cascade Canyon," Anzelmo-Sarles said. "The trail runner was delayed in returning so his friends called to notify law enforcement that he was overdue."

FWIW - I ordered a pair of Rebels from REI outlet this summer (they still have them for $320) and wore them around the house for a week. Loved the fit but decided the Rebel is not different enough from the pair of Scarpa Charmoz that I currently own and have a couple of seasons left before really needing to be replaced. The issue that really cemented returning the Rebels is that the heel piece on all 4 pairs of crampons that I own are too wide for the heel of the boot, leaving a lot of space between the metal "tabs" and boot heel on the sides. Dane has some info about this on his blog. I think there are some crampons available that fit the boot better but I couldn't justify new boots and crampons.

I have a free version of Topo Maps which is fine for my back-county use but probably not the best, Ski Tracks is a lot of fun (GPS records your ski activity for the day) Ski Report for resort conditions and of course the Avalanche Forecast. Theadolite is pretty cool for shooting slope grades and whatnot. I think you can find them all in the App Store by searching the text in bold.

Nice work, even without gaiters!

Just have to remove the boot (step out) from the binding to switch ski/walk mode on the Marker Baron/Duke.

Sounds like a good plan Dan. I have the lighter marker Baron for resort/side country, work great for that purpose.

Oh, here it is - [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9d9Of1NJjs

Chris - I have a very lightly used Speed 40 that I'd trade you.