Bronco

Are you sure it wasn't wetslide?

Golite - I ordered one and sent it back, too much mesh that would collect snow and no good place for crampons. Like someone else said, not really designed for climbing. BD Speed 40 - Have one that I've used a fair amount, Like the shape, roll top, removable waist belt padding (wish the gear loops stayed on the webbing though), big expansion sleeve. Don't like the rope strap, frame sheet (collapses if pack not loaded just right) finally decided I don't like the string axe holders, just too delicate. BD Epic 45 - Considered but too heavy. I also have the WT Guide Pack that Kurt Hicks suggested. My thermorest prolite 3 pad (womens ) folded up into 1/8th replaces the factory pad that serves as the frame. Really like this pack and it's become my go to alpine pack. I do like the design of the Cilo Gear packs and will probably check them out when I need a new one.

For some reason, downtown Everett didn't make the list.

I'm pretty average fitness and having done the route in July took about 11 hours round trip from Boston Basin. Figure another 2.5 hours up and 1.5 hours down from the trailhead to Boston Basin for a total of 15-16 hours which I think is pretty average for a car to car attempt of a competent and fit party. The snow in the north cascades is much deeper than what you'd expect in September. Looks more like a mid-summer snow pack on an average year. You might call the Marblemount Ranger Station and ask if they've got any recent conditions updates.

Looks like Mission fired up the snow guns early this year - http://www.wenatcheewebcam.com/missionridge.html

No Rules, just get in a single file line and watch out for the birds pooping all over the entrance. Standard grocery store line etiquette probably applies in that if someone attempts to cut in line, you can either passivly ignore them or choose to create some loud confrontation. I've picked up permits for Boston Basin on a Saturday afternoon for Sat-Sun-Mon so I wouldn't drive past just because there are folks in line. Like you said, there's lots to do so they may not be going in to Boston Basin just because they are in line for a permit. That being said, it's wise to have some alternative objectives.

It's fun!

I think I also climbed the W. Ridge in 2007. Great area with none of the crowds, permits, on route clusters... Hoping to go back sometime for the NE Arete. Keenwesh, you can always take up skiing but you'll ruin your perspective on Cascade Range snow conditions.

Since there is a new EA does that mean we need to submit new comments?

Tom, very inspiring TR and photos, you've covered more ground in the last few weeks than than most of us will in a year (or more).

Poor Juan, at least he looks extreme in gorts. Nice TR!

Great writing and photos!

Great TR and photos. It's funny how most of us have our nemises mountains that, despite multiple attempts, don't allow us to set foot on the summit. This caught my eye and I'm a little curious. Was the left crampon in this photo detached at the toe? If not, what did you determine was the cause of the crampon issue? Regardless, that's a scary place for a tumble, glad he was able to self arrest.

Sure is a lot more snow than usual.

With apologies to Mattp, I think this is one of the funniest threads ever -

While checking in at the Marblemount Ranger Station, I overheard that they've done away with the climbing registration book. Now you should leave your itinerary with family/friends along with the phone number for the climbing rangers. Speaking of that,there were a couple of rescues this weekend: http://www.komonews.com/news/local/4-injured-climbers-rescued-from-N-Cascades-National-Park-162531766.html Juan: I thought those blue bags the rangers give you were for storing food. Remember we found some full of Baby Ruth candy bars and napkins in the creek up on Mt. Baker?

According to Beckey's green CAG, 2nd ed., "Weather in the Cascades is actually highly predictable: either it is raining or will be shortly"

What the heck happened?

Finding a route up onto Torment could be tricky. There's a bunch of rap stations coming down the SE Face of Torment, but it is a chossy place to be pulling ropes. Not sure I'd want to descend that way. You might be able to down climb the South Ridge with one rap.

Photos of me catching my breath? Here’s a longer version – Jonathan and I met in Everett Sunday afternoon intending to climb Torment and descend to the first bivy site at the Torment Col and then complete the traverse to Forbidden on Monday. With a clear sky, and wanting to pack light, we only brought sleeping bags and pads, no shelter. Upon arriving at Boston Basin less hydrated (it was hot!) and not as early as we’d planned, we prudently decided to camp there overnight and make a 3 am departure for Torment. Thunder and lightning started just after dark, putting on a show over Johannesburg and reinforcing the intimidating nature of that mountain. Rain started pelting our down bags sometime after midnight and continued until 4:00am. While snuggled into my damp bag, I thought the day was shot and we’d probably slog out after dawn or at best, salvage a climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden if the weather had improved. At 4:30 we realized the sky had completely cleared and after a quick breakfast, were on the approach to the ridge. We chatted about the potentially revised agenda and talked through the different factors, (route conditions, team, did our wardrobe match, weather, etc.) eventually deciding to stick with our original plan despite concerns of a late start and not having matching gaiters. We reached the head of the Taboo Glacier at about 6:30 am and Jonathan launched over the schrund and up the South East face of Torment, reaching the summit by 8:30, setting the prompt pace for the rest of the day. With the register quickly signed, we carefully down climbed to the Col and made the rap onto the north side of the ridge. Jonathan improvised a fireman’s rap for me so I wouldn’t have to attempt the dyno tool stick that he skillfully performed to snag the lip of the glacier from the overhanging rock face. I don’t consider myself a complete slouch but my partner for this climb was incredibly fit and competent, graciously allowing me to draft behind him and really enjoy the route. From there, the route is pretty straightforward, there are a lot of options that seem feasible, some just more efficient than others. We made a lot of snow/rock transitions and with the soft snow, crampons weren’t really necessary for much of the climb. I sure appreciated the security of two tools on the “steep snow traverse”. The quality of the rock improves as the traverse progresses and eventually the intermittent snow gave way to pleasant ridge running on dry rock. We reached the West Ridge Col sometime around noon and after a quick break, continued climbing (incorporating a sit start) up the enjoyable west ridge, keeping one or two pieces between us, flipping the rope behind horns and flakes, only stopping when Jonathan ran low on gear and to give me a formal belay at the “crux” 5.6 move. Encountering two other parties on the West ridge that graciously allowed us to squeeze by; we summited and returned to the Col by 2:30 pm, down climbed the West Ridge Couloir and back to Boston Basin by 4:30 pm. We gladly drank a bunch of water upon reaching the slabs above camp as I had underestimated my stove fuel and had only consumed about 3 liters of water each throughout the day, attempting to augment hydration by eating snow while on the move. I estimate that I lost 7-8 lbs of water weight during the day and experienced crazy old man cramps in my hands like never before. If Jonathan was hurting, it never showed. As reputed, this is a very enjoyable route that is reasonable to do in a long day from Boston Basin although I can see why most prefer to bivy on the ridge. It’s a great position, ample of water sources and plenty of good platforms. We finished the day at the BBQ Caboose in Marblemount, good food after an awesome day with a great partner in the North Cascades.

Same with me -

Nice job Jay, remind me never to loan you my good chisels.

Looks like an intervention going on in that final picture. Ejoyed the rest of the TR, looks like a fun trip!

That does remind me of something that took me some time to figure out, I tend to keep my lower boot buckled very snug while skinning and if detecting a hot spot on my feet, will buckle even tighter. If you can ski Adams (that's a lot of vert) with no blisters, you're doing pretty good. I have a lot of ski partners who'd be pretty happy with that.

Thinking of picking up this shovel just to prank my ski partners. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/3092287512.html Ever have a partner show up with questionable gear?