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Jason4

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About Jason4

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Occupation
    Enginerd
  • Location
    Bellingham, WA
  1. Pink Snow

    You can see a hint of pink in these two photos but it was darkest in the snow just below the camp as you climb the last pitch up from the Inspiration Glacier to the camp, it would be just out of frame in the lower left of the second picture. I don’t have any better pictures of that are but I remember noticing how dark it was while I was looking around for running water.
  2. Pink Snow

    There are some dark pink/red patches near the climbers camp on Eldorado as of yesterday.
  3. As per usual you did a far better job of capturing the scenery than I did. Beautiful photos!
  4. Based on previous experiences it's probably in our best interest if someone from the climbing community enters a comment and gets listed as "Party of Record". From other government dealings I've learned that often once the public comment period is closed the government agencies will only talk to people that are acknowledged as a "party of record" and it's too late for anyone else to file comments even if the plan has changed considerably from the initial proposal. I don't have time to follow up.
  5. Looking for specific harness...

    Flaming wasn't my intention, just trying to make sure newer climbers are aware of current best practices. I climb with a lot of people who are of the mindset that whatever they learned when they started is the last thing they needed to learn and there have been unfortunate outcomes as a result. I'm always of the opinion that changing something up that takes less than a minute to do but eliminates a possible single point failure with high consequences is worth taking the time to change. Extending a rappel and putting the autoblock on the belay loop doesn't eliminate all single point failures but prerigging the second can at least reduce the risk for the first person rapping in the case of a single strand failure in the rope and they can also keep an eye on the rap anchor. Climbing will never be safe but we should always reduce the risk if it doesn't cost us anything in terms of time or energy.
  6. Looking for specific harness...

    Hey Gene, thanks for reinforcing what I mentioned about the third hand on the leg loop not being full strength and only being useful for applying force to the braking strand. It is not redundant in case another part of your rappel system fails. AMGA How to set up a rappel extension Here's the best practice for rappelling as taught by the AMGA, I'm surprised that you've seen guides recently rigging a third hand to their leg loops as that's not what's considered to be current best practice. It's better to rig it to the the belay loop for a full-strength back up to add redundancy in case you have a single point failure in your rappel device, your extension (but even that can be set up to be redundant), or your rappel carabiner.
  7. Looking for specific harness...

    I appreciate your preference for the older style harness buckle but I've never really gotten along well with them and even recently retired a BD couliour harness specifically because it has that style buckle. There's an interesting rant from Will Gadd about replacing harnesses just to update to the newer style. https://gripped.com/gear/will-gadds-harness-tip-save-lives/ For the other comment about harnesses with a loop just for an autoblock on the leg loop, I'd be surprised if you find one. Petzl puts a loop on the leg loops of their alpine harnesses to rack a single ice screw for crevasse rescue but I don't think it's load rated for an autoblock. At best, putting your autoblock on your leg loop is good for a third hand but is not a redundant back up for your rappel device/belay loop/main rappel carabiner. Current best practice is to extend your rappel device away from your belay loop and then use your belay loop for your autoblock in order to have a redundant full strength back up in case you have a failure somewhere else in your rappel system. You probably know all this and have preferences based on lots of experience but I thought it would be helpful to have this information here just in case someone with less experience finds this thread.
  8. If the berm had a sign on it that says something to the effect of "no wheeled vehicles beyond this point" then you broke the law. If caught driving beyond the sign I've been told that the fine is $5000. I've read a lot of posts on various climbing groups suggesting that it's a good idea to ignore the sign and drive all the way to the trail head, don't do. If you stopped when you reached the sign then thank you and it looks like you had a great day out in the mountains.
  9. Conditions on Lincoln, Colfax, Kulshan

    I saw a comment from someone on Facebook about chaining up and driving over the snow berm and the sign to get all the way to the TH. Please don't do that. It ruins the grooming on the road and will result in a $5000 fine. Thanks for the conditions update Jason!
  10. question Looking for durable ski poles

    I've seen a mid-weight friend break bamboo poles skinning with them, not falling, not flailing, just skinning. And broken just below the grip, not at the normal spot near the basket. I'd stay away. I'm also in the Clydesdale class (>200lbs) and have had good luck with BD expedition poles. You've got to be rough on gear if you go through those as much as you do. I don't know what's tougher other than cheap, one-piece aluminum poles. They won't be light or adjustable but they are tough and consumable. I'd check thrift stores.
  11. Old Kloke Book "One Day Winter Climbs"

    Add me to the line please, Krissy and Braden have been fired up for some winter climbing this year and I agree it's going to be a great winter for climbing as a consolation to the skiing I expect to get.
  12. [TR] Watson - North Ridge 08/07/2018

    Such a cool and close area. I need to get out there again this year. Thanks for sharing and inspiring.
  13. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I think JasonG hit an important detail in his first reply: not a lot of good pro in most Cascades "4th class" terrain. I often joke that we've taken to calling low-5th class terrain with bad pro "4th class terrain" to make ourselves and our significant others feel better about the choices we make in the mountains but the consequence of a fall is the same as a lot of 5th class terrain. Most of the 4th class routes I've been on have had some protection, either gear or weaving the rope around terrain features but I know there are some serious choss dogs out there that like to climb vertical gravel.
  14. There was a group of lady splitboarders that set out to climb and ride all of the volcanoes in one push. There are a few caveats to their effort but their accomplishment deserves acknowledgment. They focused on fun and splitboarding over standing on every true summit and they didn't get a weather window for Rainier during the time they had together so they added Garibaldi to their original list and had to give Glacier Peak a second try to get it. Most impressive is that the core group consisted of people who are primarily snowboarders, not mountaineers or endurance athletes, one of which was coming off an Olympic gold and retirement from a career as a halfpipe rider who jumped right into the world of mountaineering. Pretty amazing effort conceived by Maria DeBari with Kaitlyn Farrington and Freya Fenwood along with cameo appearances from Lucas DeBari, Krissy Fagan, Hana Beaman, Gaby and others. https://snowboarding.transworld.net/almost-famous-volcano-tour/ https://www.mountbakerexperience.com/almost-famous-maria-debari-and-friends-ride-24-volcanoes-in-45-days/
  15. Braden Downey and I climbed the Green Creek Arete and the NE ridge of South Twin. We got off the summit by following the route described above to the notch and then went SE down to the Green Creek headwaters before following the creek back down the valley. It was pretty awesome.
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