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About Jason4

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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    Bellingham, WA
  1. If the berm had a sign on it that says something to the effect of "no wheeled vehicles beyond this point" then you broke the law. If caught driving beyond the sign I've been told that the fine is $5000. I've read a lot of posts on various climbing groups suggesting that it's a good idea to ignore the sign and drive all the way to the trail head, don't do. If you stopped when you reached the sign then thank you and it looks like you had a great day out in the mountains.
  2. Conditions on Lincoln, Colfax, Kulshan

    I saw a comment from someone on Facebook about chaining up and driving over the snow berm and the sign to get all the way to the TH. Please don't do that. It ruins the grooming on the road and will result in a $5000 fine. Thanks for the conditions update Jason!
  3. question Looking for durable ski poles

    I've seen a mid-weight friend break bamboo poles skinning with them, not falling, not flailing, just skinning. And broken just below the grip, not at the normal spot near the basket. I'd stay away. I'm also in the Clydesdale class (>200lbs) and have had good luck with BD expedition poles. You've got to be rough on gear if you go through those as much as you do. I don't know what's tougher other than cheap, one-piece aluminum poles. They won't be light or adjustable but they are tough and consumable. I'd check thrift stores.
  4. Old Kloke Book "One Day Winter Climbs"

    Add me to the line please, Krissy and Braden have been fired up for some winter climbing this year and I agree it's going to be a great winter for climbing as a consolation to the skiing I expect to get.
  5. [TR] Watson - North Ridge 08/07/2018

    Such a cool and close area. I need to get out there again this year. Thanks for sharing and inspiring.
  6. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I think JasonG hit an important detail in his first reply: not a lot of good pro in most Cascades "4th class" terrain. I often joke that we've taken to calling low-5th class terrain with bad pro "4th class terrain" to make ourselves and our significant others feel better about the choices we make in the mountains but the consequence of a fall is the same as a lot of 5th class terrain. Most of the 4th class routes I've been on have had some protection, either gear or weaving the rope around terrain features but I know there are some serious choss dogs out there that like to climb vertical gravel.
  7. There was a group of lady splitboarders that set out to climb and ride all of the volcanoes in one push. There are a few caveats to their effort but their accomplishment deserves acknowledgment. They focused on fun and splitboarding over standing on every true summit and they didn't get a weather window for Rainier during the time they had together so they added Garibaldi to their original list and had to give Glacier Peak a second try to get it. Most impressive is that the core group consisted of people who are primarily snowboarders, not mountaineers or endurance athletes, one of which was coming off an Olympic gold and retirement from a career as a halfpipe rider who jumped right into the world of mountaineering. Pretty amazing effort conceived by Maria DeBari with Kaitlyn Farrington and Freya Fenwood along with cameo appearances from Lucas DeBari, Krissy Fagan, Hana Beaman, Gaby and others. https://snowboarding.transworld.net/almost-famous-volcano-tour/ https://www.mountbakerexperience.com/almost-famous-maria-debari-and-friends-ride-24-volcanoes-in-45-days/
  8. Braden Downey and I climbed the Green Creek Arete and the NE ridge of South Twin. We got off the summit by following the route described above to the notch and then went SE down to the Green Creek headwaters before following the creek back down the valley. It was pretty awesome.
  9. I was up there yesterday and our party pulled your first rap anchor getting off the SE ridge of S. Twin, I just wanted to mention it so nobody goes up there expecting one to already be in place. The one at the notch is still there.
  10. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I've been having good conversations with friends and partners this winter about the difference between risk tolerance and risk awareness. Some people I know recognize the risks and hazards accurately and are ok putting themselves into situations that I would not be ok with. Other people I know will go into the same situations never even knowing they are at risk. My conversations have been in the context of avalanche hazard while backcountry skiing but it applies to alpine climbing/mountaineering as well and the conversations have been positive. I'd rather have a partner with a high risk tolerance and enough experience to recognize the risk than a partner that will charge into less risky situations thinking it's just as dangerous as walking down the sidewalk. It's easier to have conversation about mutual risk acceptance with someone who can see the hazard even if they are willing to tolerate higher risk.
  11. This place is like Monte Cristo

    I watch for your posts on IG to find out current conditions. I know I visit the site more in spring and summer when I'm thinking about what I want to climb or what I just climbed. Last summer was a pretty bad one for me and climbing so I probably didn't post much if at all.
  12. Thanks for pioneering new routes in the Twins! I was in that area on Saturday and found lots of new flagging on the way in, some of it hanging on trees right next to the existing blazes, excessive especially since the trail is so easy to follow in most places. It's marking a less direct trail from the last creek crossing (Hildebrandt or Wiseman?) to the big old cedars than is necessary. I picked up flagging that was laying on the ground on the way in and ended up with a full pocket. I'm happy to see people enjoying the area but want to repeat what Darin said about picking up after ourselves and leaving the area clean for the next party to enjoy.
  13. I second the Atomic Backlands. I have challenging feet to fit too and went with the Backlands since the entire shell can be baked in an oven and stretched to fit. The boot fitter that I've been working with says they're really easy to punch after the initial shell molding process too. I got the regular ones for splitboarding and they are soft enough to ride in without modification, it makes me wonder how people ski in them at all, you'll probably want to step up to the carbon version.
  14. Help getting started

    Some of the lookouts can make for really fun outings and a lot of them are more exposed than you might expect. I really enjoy the hike up to Hidden Lake Peaks Lookout, Park Butte is another fun one with good mileage and a great perspective to get you excited about the range of peaks you can see from there. I haven't been up to Lookout Mountain (near HLP) but I hear that trail is a grind as well. As for places to learn more professional guides will offer the most focused education experience, volunteer organizations offer various levels of education but typically their courses are spread out on weekends that stretch on for several month, a climbing mentor can be the most rewarding but that's very dependent on who you end up matched up with. Good luck and stay safe in the mountains. BTW, I agree with JasonG, 4th class scares me more than moderate 5th with good protection.
  15. Advice appreciated

    I'm pretty sure that's the time of year that the guides are running Denali prep on Rainier. As has already been warned, be ready for bad weather.