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Jason4

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About Jason4

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Occupation
    Enginerd
  • Location
    Bellingham, WA
  1. If you drop a straight line between the Methow Valley Airport and the Langley, BC there's a lot of good terrain in there. It crosses directly over Silver Star, Colonial Creek Campground, the Sulphide and Upper Curtis glaciers on Shuksan and close to Lake Ann, a lot of very good ski terrain (Swift Creek, Bagley Bowl, Iceberg Lake). It'll be interesting when bricks of coke start showing up somewhere in the woods.
  2. idea Let's talk clothing systems.

    I'm kind of interested in how well the 40 Below Vest works as part of a clothing system. As a very sweaty person it makes a lot of sense to me.
  3. It seems like you're looking for the Ascendant jacket from Outdoor Research. It has soft Polartec Alpha pile facing the body with air gaps and is covered by a pertex shell. Since getting one it's become one of my favorite cozy jackets both in the mountains and around town.
  4. Pink Snow

    You can see a hint of pink in these two photos but it was darkest in the snow just below the camp as you climb the last pitch up from the Inspiration Glacier to the camp, it would be just out of frame in the lower left of the second picture. I don’t have any better pictures of that are but I remember noticing how dark it was while I was looking around for running water.
  5. Pink Snow

    There are some dark pink/red patches near the climbers camp on Eldorado as of yesterday.
  6. As per usual you did a far better job of capturing the scenery than I did. Beautiful photos!
  7. Based on previous experiences it's probably in our best interest if someone from the climbing community enters a comment and gets listed as "Party of Record". From other government dealings I've learned that often once the public comment period is closed the government agencies will only talk to people that are acknowledged as a "party of record" and it's too late for anyone else to file comments even if the plan has changed considerably from the initial proposal. I don't have time to follow up.
  8. Looking for specific harness...

    Flaming wasn't my intention, just trying to make sure newer climbers are aware of current best practices. I climb with a lot of people who are of the mindset that whatever they learned when they started is the last thing they needed to learn and there have been unfortunate outcomes as a result. I'm always of the opinion that changing something up that takes less than a minute to do but eliminates a possible single point failure with high consequences is worth taking the time to change. Extending a rappel and putting the autoblock on the belay loop doesn't eliminate all single point failures but prerigging the second can at least reduce the risk for the first person rapping in the case of a single strand failure in the rope and they can also keep an eye on the rap anchor. Climbing will never be safe but we should always reduce the risk if it doesn't cost us anything in terms of time or energy.
  9. Looking for specific harness...

    Hey Gene, thanks for reinforcing what I mentioned about the third hand on the leg loop not being full strength and only being useful for applying force to the braking strand. It is not redundant in case another part of your rappel system fails. AMGA How to set up a rappel extension Here's the best practice for rappelling as taught by the AMGA, I'm surprised that you've seen guides recently rigging a third hand to their leg loops as that's not what's considered to be current best practice. It's better to rig it to the the belay loop for a full-strength back up to add redundancy in case you have a single point failure in your rappel device, your extension (but even that can be set up to be redundant), or your rappel carabiner.
  10. Looking for specific harness...

    I appreciate your preference for the older style harness buckle but I've never really gotten along well with them and even recently retired a BD couliour harness specifically because it has that style buckle. There's an interesting rant from Will Gadd about replacing harnesses just to update to the newer style. https://gripped.com/gear/will-gadds-harness-tip-save-lives/ For the other comment about harnesses with a loop just for an autoblock on the leg loop, I'd be surprised if you find one. Petzl puts a loop on the leg loops of their alpine harnesses to rack a single ice screw for crevasse rescue but I don't think it's load rated for an autoblock. At best, putting your autoblock on your leg loop is good for a third hand but is not a redundant back up for your rappel device/belay loop/main rappel carabiner. Current best practice is to extend your rappel device away from your belay loop and then use your belay loop for your autoblock in order to have a redundant full strength back up in case you have a failure somewhere else in your rappel system. You probably know all this and have preferences based on lots of experience but I thought it would be helpful to have this information here just in case someone with less experience finds this thread.
  11. If the berm had a sign on it that says something to the effect of "no wheeled vehicles beyond this point" then you broke the law. If caught driving beyond the sign I've been told that the fine is $5000. I've read a lot of posts on various climbing groups suggesting that it's a good idea to ignore the sign and drive all the way to the trail head, don't do. If you stopped when you reached the sign then thank you and it looks like you had a great day out in the mountains.
  12. Conditions on Lincoln, Colfax, Kulshan

    I saw a comment from someone on Facebook about chaining up and driving over the snow berm and the sign to get all the way to the TH. Please don't do that. It ruins the grooming on the road and will result in a $5000 fine. Thanks for the conditions update Jason!
  13. question Looking for durable ski poles

    I've seen a mid-weight friend break bamboo poles skinning with them, not falling, not flailing, just skinning. And broken just below the grip, not at the normal spot near the basket. I'd stay away. I'm also in the Clydesdale class (>200lbs) and have had good luck with BD expedition poles. You've got to be rough on gear if you go through those as much as you do. I don't know what's tougher other than cheap, one-piece aluminum poles. They won't be light or adjustable but they are tough and consumable. I'd check thrift stores.
  14. Old Kloke Book "One Day Winter Climbs"

    Add me to the line please, Krissy and Braden have been fired up for some winter climbing this year and I agree it's going to be a great winter for climbing as a consolation to the skiing I expect to get.
  15. [TR] Watson - North Ridge 08/07/2018

    Such a cool and close area. I need to get out there again this year. Thanks for sharing and inspiring.
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