TimL

This kind of falls along the same lines but a couple months ago I was hammering a pin into some alpine choss, clipped carabiner/sling to it, decided I wanted to smack a couple more times for good measures and accidently smacked the carabiner a couple times with my ice hammer. After inspecting it later I noticed a couple dings. I think its fine to use but what would other people do? Retire it? Use it as a bail biner? Has anyone actually had a carabiner fail or break in a fall and why?

Thats friggin lame. Why did you bring pins on a totally clean route to begin with? I think it even says in the book. No pins.

If I had to guess, Ed is on the Girth Pillar and that could be the Ice Cliff Glacier Couloir.

I think you need to go back and reread the cc.com flow chart... that might help you make a climbing conection Nice one Muffy!

Paul - JJA and I did Night n Gale a 1 1/2 week ago. It was in good. Salmon Stakes looked thin and the Shriek of the Sheep was in but the top pitch wasn't fully formed but doable. Who knows what its like now. Probably still good if avy hazards arn't to bad.

I have an old school budy who whips off of 12's, pulls the rope then sends. Bruce is bad ass!

Why is this coming from the man who said, "I've never been weathered out at Smith". Weather doesn't look that bad Saturday. Partly cloudy. Slight chance of rain with chance or rain and snow near the crest. Highs near 50. Southwest wind 15 to 25 mph. Chance of rain 20 percent except 50 percent near the crest. Saturday night. Partly cloudy. Chance of rain. Lows in the 30s. Southwest wind 15 to 20 mph. Chance of rain 30 percent. Sunday. Mostly cloudy. Chance of rain. Highs in the mid to upper 50s. Chance of rain 30 percent. Sunday night. Partly cloudy. Slight chance of rain and snow. Lows in the 30s. Chance of rain and snow 20 percent. Have a good time!

Right on! Actually, too young, give him a coke.

Regarding the Icy BC fall, I was belaying JJA and saw the guy take a 30+ foot wipper almost hitting the deck. Thank god he was able to be carried away with apparently only a gash to his head and a broken/sprained ankle. to everyone for helping get him out.

First time I've seen this thread. Good job you guys!

You lose that much weight and we're going to have to bolt you to the ground when the wind gusts at the Morning Glory Wall.

Good job guys!

My 2 cents. Most pitches I've rope solo aided at the LTW you can easily find clean anchors or tie off to bolts a little ways up the climb. Then there are a couple routes I've tried that I found required some funky girth hitches on rocks that I felt was less than bomb proof. So I added a couple pins smashed in at foot level to make the anchor bomb proof. PM me with the routes you are interested in then if I've aid soloed them I'm sure I can give you the anchor beta.

Good topic. I agree with Mattp. It seems like Index ratings are more difficult than Yosemite. It seems to me Index has more difficult/sandbagged individual technical moves and features but the valley rating are harder in terms of length and sustained character. Example, Godzilla has a couple crux moves and a couple good rests but not sustained. I felt the second pitch or Reeds Direct (long 5.9 crack you can see from the road) and Jo-Jo , alternative start to the Prow I think, are sustained and although an easier technically in the grade they have the same sustained hard moves from beginning to end. Wallstein should have a good opinion on this one.

Post deleted by TimL

Ahhhh, the ringing flake. I think I've yanked, pulled, jammed and used the flake as a foot hold many, many times. Although I wouldn't want to bet anyones life on it, the flake is a fairly prominent feature and has been there for many years. I doubt it is a big enough hazard to be cleaned. Plus, it would make the traverse from Iron Horse to Sag really friggin hard.

I remember seeing a report on the BC ice conditions page that Pan Dome fell down in the last bit of warm weather we had. Anyone know if it has formed again?

A couple of years ago we passed Toketie Lake and Wall en route to the Mole. The whole area is a pretty cool and seemed to be less visited part of the Enchantments. We approached via the Rat Creek drainage. It seems to approach the area your picking the lesser of 2 evils but the Rat Creek approach was terrible. The approach entailed finding the obvious climbers trail that went steeply thru burnt forrest with plenty of bush whacking. I've heard of a cross country way up over Cannon mtn and I'd guess its longer but easier to go up and over Prussik Pass and descend onto the Edward Mesa and down to Toketie Lake Wall but that will take a fair amount of time.

I have Saturday and Sunday free to climb this weekend as well. Weather looks crappy. Anyone heading up to Lillooet this weekend? Index might be dry on Sunday if you wish hard enough.

Like Fred said, we were so lucky to sneak into and out of the Ghost and climb something without having a huge epic. to the friendly Canadians! The Ghost is an awesome area. I can't wait to go back. Lambone - The road seemed to be super compact snow and ice. Basically, without chains I tried to make it up a hill with the road averaging about 20 degrees for 400 ft and couldn't crest the top. Once I stopped I started sliding down hill sideways because of the weight of my car. Thank God I was able to stop the slide and slowly back/slide down or else we would of paid a visit to Big Hill towing. Chains are the money for getting in and out. It seems no matter if your in a high clearance 4wd or not, if you lose it your going in a ditch. Theres not much room for error on the road into the Ghost. Dale - I'm interested in hearing your story. I don't have Raf's new # but I just emailed him for it. I'll shoot it over to you once he emails me back. Climbing in the Rockies is so fun. I can't wait to make it back. It makes me want to move someplace where there is better access to more reliable ice.

I've seen Artiface and I've seen Crazy Jamie on it before. Both are bad ass. Right on Crazy Jamie I think someone needs to find a "puff the magic dragon" gremlin in honor of Jamie!

Not if I ride it down first

Layton - Was at the Lower Town Wall yesterday and the North Face of Index appeared to the barest I've ever seen it. I couldn't see any ice and the face looked pretty much like powder over rocks with a lot of trees sticking out. I couldn't even see any avy debris at the base of the NF. On the other hand, Index granite was killer yesterday! Warmed up on GNS, taught Fred Rogers how to aid and did laps on Iron Horse to get in shape. The rock was seeping in all the usual places but dries up by afternoon. Everything should be nice and dry by this weekend.

Thanks Wade. Are This House of Sky and Midnight Rambler threatened by avys from bowls or terrain above or are they fairly safe when conditions are high? Thanks,