TimL

I have 2 bent shaft Pulsars and they are awesome for everything I've done so far. Although I do have to say the Cobras are pretty nice. The new tools help make ice climbing easier to a degree, but as I painfully learned last year after breaking a couple fingers, technology doesn't replace technique. [ 10-23-2002, 02:57 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

quote: Originally posted by Necronomicon: Prepare to meet thy doom. Here's the route description: 1)Grovel up hill through woods for all of time. 2)Climb over golaith mounds of avalanche debris to base of route at center of face, clenching bowels. 3)Turn back on loved ones, and the material world, and ascend face, past several empty coffins and underneath the gleaming, reaping blade of the Harvester, Death. 4)Shake hands with The Beast 666, and climb thorugh the eye of the Skull to the summit. No problem! p.s. I highly suggest that you buy some ice tools and try this as your first route of the season.

Basically, as you take the entrance road to the PCT parking lot there will be an immediate left turn into what looks like an overflow parking lot which is the parking lot for the old PCT. On the north hand side, facing Commonwealth Basin, of the lot is the place to look for the trail. After doing this approach I’ll never take the new PCT and its useless switch backing.

I remember looking at it at the end of August and seeing ice on the upper part of the route. Probably the whole couloir is ice now. With the past snow we've had I bet there is a bit sticking around on the north side of Stuart.

Looking for a partner to climb this coming weekend. Pretty much open to anything but if the weather stays nice then I wouldn't mind heading into the mountains. Maybe something like S. Face of Prussik, WA Pass or ice some where. If the weather craps out then I wouldn't mind heading to Leavenworth or Smith. PM or email me at Lucky14956@aol.com if interested.

Why not have an events forum for stuff like Pub Club, Rope-Ups, North Face & Cascade Crags posts, etc.....

What about the Irish/Cajun Pub in Redmond. Forget the name of the place but I've been there once and its OK. Better then the NW Brewhouse. [ 10-09-2002, 10:24 AM: Message edited by: TimL ]

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Has anybody done this route at Smith Rox? I did it yesterday and found the crux to be rather pissin hard. Just wondering if its still 12a, or was I being a weeny. -Heinous weeny

Did Freebase on Saturday right after Rumar andI did Churning. Freebase felt like a solid Smith 12a. The route felt rather technical with a emphasis on footwork. Like Jens, after mostly climbing in the mountains I got spanked hard the first day.

Smiff, as alway, rocked this weekend. Rumar - good climbing with you and Paul on saturday. By chance did you find an extra gri-gri in your backpack? i lost mine on Saturday. Had an awesome day on Sunday climbing with Erik and the Smiff rock posse in the lower gorge. Cheers

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by shredmaximus: SK what time do you guys think you will be there on Sat. morning? Are you meeting Tim and Cle? forget sk and jk, forget tim and cletus... erik and timl are going down and flailin big!!!! this is where the party is at.... !!ATTENTION ALL HOTTIE SINGLE CLIMBING CHICKS OF CENTRAL OREGON!!!!! TIM AND I WILL BE THERE LATE FRIDAY TILL LATE SUNDAY......FEEL FREE TO ABUSE US IN ANY IMAGINEABLE PLEAUSREABLE WAY!!!!!! Amen brotha [ 10-04-2002, 11:34 AM: Message edited by: TimL ]

quote: Originally posted by fredrogers: quote:Originally posted by slothrop: [qb]Eh, Clog cams aren't that bad. Granted, the placement of the sling is a bit annoying (it lies right where your thumb wants to go), but they are decent for my purposes. Maybe I just don't climb hard enough... oh, and thanks for the #4, Fred, it was just the piece I needed while climbing at Smith last week Slothrop- The #4 felt the most solid- I ended up with doubles in the 3" camalot and unemployed, that's why I sold it to you. I mangled the 1" pretty badly just getting out of Karate crack (thanks TimL) QB] Anytime

WOW 2 hr 48 min is awesome and inspiring Gotta give it up to those guys. They

quote: Originally posted by erik: nextweekend.....timl beats erik down at smiff! More like TimL and Erik will get beat down at Smiff. Who all will be at Smith next weekend?

To bad Fred Rogers and I didn't run into you guys this weekend, although thanks to Erik for drawing in the window window dirt. After not having been cragging in months I forgot how fun and relaxing Leavenworth can be. Saturday morning after a false start, Fred forgot the topo in his car, he headed of the Leavenworth and made the hike up to the Pearly Gates. Its amazing the amout of good stuff up at that crag. Thanks to the folks who equipted the area. Its really user friendly. Sunday morning made the hike up to 8 mile buttress. Warmed up on Radio Sex in the wind and rain. Then climbed Scholar with a Dollar and Lazy Boy in light rain, thank god they overhang a bit. I'd have to say both Scholar with a Dollar and Lazy Boy offer some of the best climbing in Leavenworth for the grade. Also I must say thanks to Fred for being my belay bitch Sunday morning. Then did the new route on Icicle Buttress left of Love Donut. I must say the people who put this up found a hidden gem. the route is super fun. One word of caution, when rapping from the top of the 3rd pitch with a 60m rope, it will not make it all the way down to the chains on the top of the second pitch. You must rap into the obvious gulley and either belay from single bolt or scramble over to the 2nd pitch chains. Also, with a 60m rope you can run pitch 1 and 2 together to make a fun 180 ft. pitch.

Thanks for all the replys. The hotline doesn't sound like that good of a rope.

Anybody know about or use the BD 9.4 70m hotline rope? On sale for $99.95. Looking to use it as a cragging and alpine rope. Also wondering is anyone has extensively used a 9.4 diameter rope, if they like it or not and what issues, goog or bad, they've had with it? I'm kinda skeptical about taking big falls on a 9.4 but if it'll hold then I have no problem with air time. http://www.bdel.com/php/specials.php

Did this route with Fred Rogers yesterday. I'd say the hike this time of year is nearly as good as the climb. The Fall colors are really starting to come out. Bumble Bee Pass is very easy to spot form the lake as it is the first notch on the ridge to the left of the trail after the lake. As of yesterday there is a small cairn marking the entrance. The descent is trivial. Although after leaving the East Ridge and descending down the gulley make sure to stay next to the base of Thompson as the area below ths is pretty nasty, steep dirt.

quote: Originally posted by Wopper: I appreciate the info. To be more specific we are planning on doing Sharksfin on Saturday. I was up in BB this past Sunday. The trail through the avy debris is a little tricky but you shouldn't have a probelm getting through it. You shouldn't have a problem on the glacier getting to the approach gulley. The approach gulley is probably totally melted out so expect scrambling on wet rock to get to the snowfield below SFT. Also, you can rap most of the approach gulley if you want as there are many stations set up. I'd say for an average party the approach would take 2 hours to BB and 2 hours from BB to the start of the route. Have fun! Sharkfin is a fun easy climb and worth the hike. The views are spectacilar.

What climbs do you have in mind? I think the climb would dictate the rack although for starters i would say hooks (Leepers, Logan, Skyhook), nuts, singles to doubles in offset nuts, micro, small and medium cams. Aliens and offset aliens are super nice. Honestly, it really depends on the clean climbs you have in mind.

Happy Birthday

As Fred mentioned above we tried to climb the NE Ridge. If you want approach details shoot me a PM.

quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Greg W: quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by TimL: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yep, Bush is a good leader in these difficult times. Tell me who you'd think would be better before you pan this point. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yeah....I like his stratergy...and his public speaking skills are top notch. How could anyone think he is an idiot. Answer the question, dipshit, instead of just throwing stones. Who would do a better job? Powell was the one who let Saddam live. He's too soft and wishy-washy. Greg[/QB] Dipshit? That sounds pretty juvenile to me. Are you going to call me a fart knocker next? Enough with the personal insults. There are many candidates out there for both parties that would do a much better job then the person we have in office. To get down to the point. President Bush is looked at as the figurehead for out country. When he gets on the media and looks like a fool it does not project a good image of our country.

Yep, Bush is a good leader in these difficult times. Tell me who you'd think would be better before you pan this point.[/QB] Yeah....I like his stratergy...and his public speaking skills are top notch. How could anyone think he is an idiot.