TimL

Most of the times these debates seem so silly but I have to admit that portions the development in the Icicle over the last couple of years have been overboard. I would have to admit that bolting in the name of progression of the sport is one thing, but whats going on right now is degrading to the sport. It seems to me that there are places that it is acceptable to grid bolt lines. That’s obviously unacceptable in a traditional area. This is not only a traditional area, but the lines that are being grid bolted are contrived. Its like people are throwing up bolts all over the place, connecting the dots in a unseemingly fashion and then calling it a climb. If it’s a quality line then do it. I’m seeing many routes that look like people just wanted to do a route so they cleaned it then bolted it in a fashion that it would go and called it a route. I like to clip bolts, but there is a time and place for everything. To Alex’s point, I’ve seen more bolts next to cracks at Leavenworth in the last couple of years then at Smith rock. Generally, more bolts on the average new route at Leavenworth then typical Smith rock route. Go figure. Alex – Off the topic but post some pictures of last weekend!

After visiting Leavenworth this weekend and stopping past some of the new crags I was appalled at what was going on. Bolts next to cracks and perfectly good gear placements are unacceptable. Not to mention the small contrived, grid bolted routes that are being but up all around the Icicle. Really, what the fuck is going on? I’ve always thought some people and their stance against bolts was radical, but after seeing what I saw this weekend, I would not be surprised if you start find piles of chopped bolts at the basses of cliffs. I have a lot of respect for some of those that are putting up routes in the Icicle and they do it well. Then again I think there are others that should take their trash to areas like Exit 32 were it belongs. And the bolted thing next to at Index that Darryl mentioned, hopefully it won’t be around much longer. Another pure disregard for the ethics and style of the area. Not to mention a slap in the face to the first ascentionist.

Went to Index on Saturday and it was awesome! Held Fred Rogers on his biggest fall on gear to date. I've barely been climbing technical rock this summer so I thought I get a good ole Index whoopin. Ended up sending for the first time both Marginal Karma and Even Steven. Finished the day off by doing laps on Jap Gardens full pitch. Came out to my car to find someone scribbled in the dirt on the window. Then had a dude in a purple Toyota truck chase me down wanting to start some shit thinking I messed up his truck mirror. All in all a complete day at Index!

Thats right...I keep forgetting the name. What happened?

Hey Glassgow or Rudy - I was thinking of doing Midnight ? (Burdo's 12a?) before the monsoons hit. Let me know if either of you are interested.

oh Muffy, your not that evil.....see you down at sunny smiff this fall!

really felt the need to write messages on the windows of my (then) dirty white care at Index on Saturday? Time to fess up.

I think there is a big difference between mountaineering and alpine climbing but a lot of people mix them into one type of climb. It would be like mixing sport and trad climbing together in one generic rock climibng category. For instance, to me it seems most routes on Rainier are not alpine routes, they are mountaineering routes.............

you rock sista!

Good job guys. what type of rack did you bring or reccomend?

Like almost everything in climbing its a matter of opinion and experience. I think I read Guy Lacille (sp?) uses 100 meter rope while climbing solo. I'm sure I could find a way to use it but for what purpose and how practical it might be is the question.

congrats guys You guys rock! Way to finish an exciting project!

I’ve owned the Garmont towers for about a year. I bet the Ferrata’s would be better. The shoe came highly recommended to me and I for one thought is was a let down. I’ve had the stitches blow out 3 times on the toe box section that connects the gore-tex to the leather. Also, the gore-tex does not keep your feet dry for long and wears quickly. I paid $220 for these boots and if I had to do it again I wouldn’t give over a hundred bucks. They are just not worth it.

So what are everyone's favorite approach shoes? I need to pick up a new pair cause my old ones are rags. Looking for low tops in which I can rig crampons. Saw some made by La Sportiva a couple weeks ago. They were pretty new but I forgot what they were called. Thanks.

Has anyone bought hydration packs? If so which ones? What features are better than others? If so do they work well for other sports? thanks.

I'm looking into buying either a small hydration pack or a hydration system. I've seen Nalgine and Camelbak stuff before but what would you guys reccomend? Are there any other companies? What features do you like and dislike about the different packs/systems. Any information is good information. Thanks. Tim

MVS - Did you do it over 2 or 3 days? Thanks.

No wonder SB it felt soft for the grade. If someone from Index put it up it would be rated 11c or easier. Same thing with the Daily Planet.

Ray and Greg W were supposed to shoot me a jungle top rope with directionals on that hill so i could put up a 5.13, M11 tr bushwack with a dyno to a tree hugging finish near the top!

I bought a Camp Numbat at PMS a couple of years ago. Best harness I've ever owned. Durable and light weight but enough of a harness that your able to comfortable climb alpine, ice, walls or take huge cragging wippers. too bad it is so frayed now that I'm afraid to take huge falls on it. Its still a good glacier/alpine harness.

Sweet. I'm trying to make the most out of a possible 3 day trip so we won't be bring any rock pro and not much rope. Looks like Sentinel, Spire Point, Le Conte & Dome would be possibly reasonable. Any beta on the quickest way up and down these guys? Thanks.

For those out there that have actually done the traverse, what were you favorite summits? Of course Dome looks the best but for a quick trip what would be the quickest peaks to climb and keep moving. Thanks.

Lame. I've left webbing on Iron Horse and have come back latter only to find it missing. Totally pisses me off. It really helps when your fee climbing the thing. My opinion is leave the friggin webbing in place. Double lame to the idiot who pulled the pins. I know they are super bomber cause I've whipped on them plenty of times. Don't be surpised if you find a couple new ones, but I have yet to look at the gear on the upper part. If you were going to pull any pins I would pull the lower ones. They are not as good. I hate Mundaze.

What type of rack would your reccomend for the SE Buttress route? Thanks.

Cave, bring the whiskey cause I'nm drunk at work now and want to stay that way the rest of the weekend.