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TimL

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Everything posted by TimL

  1. The green stuff is actually in the tube connecting the mouth piece to the bag.
  2. This is a little off the subject but I have a Platypus that I used all summer and the mouth tube has some green stuff mold/fugus/I'm not sure what growing in the tube section. I must of not let it dry before packing it after a trip. Anyone know a good method or substance for cleaning this stuff out?
  3. Dane - I've looked at Stevens Pass Hotel before it looks really good and although I've not been on it looks really hard and ran out at the top. I'd like to do it next fall. Also, try Lazy Boy and Radio Sex on 8 Mile Rock. 2 very good routes. Cave & Rocket - I've been wanting to do Mary Jane Dihedral for a long time. Looks like fun. Ahhhh - The Serenity Crack thru Sons combo. Killer all time favorite. The 100 ft 5.9 handcrack towards the top is amazing. I think the super topo says to bring like 2 or 3 2 inch pieces. I remember my partner dropping two of three 2 inch pieces right before that pitch and it was my lead. And if I remember correctly ehmic and Matt found 1 at the base and returned it to us latter that evening.
  4. Supercrack will go. Might be interesting in terms of the large amounts of air time. I remeber when you, Jens and Highlander were on it this fall. Sounds like the top will be tough and might need cleaning.
  5. I’d have to say these are the routes that inspire me either because of their beauty, quality or technical difficulty. Either way when I’m training these routes give me motivation. Rock: 1.) Clay, Index – redpoint 2.) Super Crack Leavenworth – lead 3.) Kings of Rap, Smith - redpoint 1.) Daily Planet, Squamish – redpoint the 1st crux pitch and finish the rest 2.) Juno Tower – Clean Break 3.) Colchuck Balenced Rock – West Face 3t) Temple Range Traverse 3yo) Nose - El Cap – I’ll be back for round II 3yo) Rostrum – North Face 3yo) Astroman (I’m cheating on this one) Alpine – 1) Baker North Ridge 2) Chair – NE Butt 3) Eldorado – NW Couloir 3a) Dragontail – Triple Couloirs Ice Night n Gale – littlewet Synchronicity – littlewet Aid: 1) Green Dragon Tex – I’ll belay you on ROTC (its soft for the grade, you should onsight it) if you’ll belay me on Supercrack. There is to much to do around here and not enough good weather. Let alone Cascade stuff I gotta make it up to the Canandian Rockies for the alpine season up there.
  6. Post deleted by TimL
  7. What are the 3 top routes your going to go for in 2003. Can be alpine, sport, trad, ice...or top 3 in all catagories? Spray away guys!
  8. I agree and until a couple years ago I didn't know to give a good sport belay or use a Gri-gri. Thank God I've learned. At least for me the tendency for an alpine belay is to pull back were with a sport belay I'll step into the fall which, correct me if I'm wrong, is a more dynamic belay. Now I'll try to pretty much step into any fall no matter alpine or sport because its easier on the person falling and I think on the gear thats holding the fall. I know when I'm climbing and whip I can tell the difference betwen a good belayer and bad.
  9. Bolting wars do nothing but hurt the climbing community and it would be sad to see one starting n Alpental Valley. Caveman - From Climbing Mag: M7: Feels like 5.11+ rock climbing M8: Feels like 5.12, mostly drytooling severely overhanging rock. ice is usually spotty or detached. M9: Unconsolidated grade - can involve entire or many pitches of M8. M10: 5.13 drytooling. I haven't done much sport drytooling but for one would like to check those routes out in the near future. They look fun!
  10. Yeah that thing, although there was nothing you could consider placing a screw in.
  11. "Did you guys see the two purple slings and one blue sling we rapped off of in an ice bulge, or had it melted out already after two days?" Your slings were gone. I was looking for them but didn't see anything. During the afternoon most of ice on the climb was running with water or falling off. The initial gully had just a little ice left because it was in the shade. The snow on the climb had a surface crust with around 12 inches of mashed potatoes then another hard crust. "The couloir at the bottom was a lot of fun though, up to the lowest trees." This part of the climb was by far the best climbing on the route that we experienced up to our high point. Several thought provoking moves on ice and rock. I've climbed a lot of rock and a couple seasons of pure ice but I got to say after yesterday I have to do more mixed stuff like what was on the lower gully. Very exciting! Can't wait to go back to this climb in better conditions. For what we climbed, it was very good. Even though we didn't make the top it was very fun and a learning experience. Thanks Fleblebleb for a fun day.
  12. TimL

    Mt. Persis

    Is the ice runnel above the guys shoulder/pack the top of the Eve Dearborn Mem route?
  13. Beyond the obvious, I’m just trying to learn the peculiarities of the area.
  14. Please let me know if there is something blatantly obvious that I'm not considering, but how can you do an onsite avy evaluation on terrain thats much different and much higher than the area in which your onsite evaluation is taking place. If there is a trick in that area, I've only been there once, for checking avy conditions on those climbs please fill me in. I'm not trying to be a dick just looking for some potentially useful information.
  15. I talked to a local climber from Kamloops on Sunday. He mentioned that he hasn’t heard anything about Bridge yet but also mentioned he thought the avy conditions were pretty bad for whatever thats worth. I also forgot to thank the friendly Canadian police officer that gave me a ticket for going 115 km in a 90 zone on Highway 1.
  16. As of Sunday 1/12 the conditions at Marble were pretty much the same as Oldgoats initial post. Rambles: Right side was in but was thinner then I've ever seen it. First pitch 3-, 2nd pitch easy 2 and third 2+/3-. First pitch on the left side was formed but the second corner pitch was not. I didn't get a chance to look at the last steep pitch on the left side. Gotta thank J-Dog and Mr. Radon for helping fix my flat tire and cleaning up Fred Roger's busted head courtesy of the a Charlet Moser Adze.
  17. Anybody see Hubba Hubba?
  18. Anybody visit the Icicle this weekend? Anybody know if Hubba Hubba or Drury has formed yet?
  19. Don't know that guy but sure know these guys. Can't wait till the next trip to the Valley! http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yolcsout&n=3 http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yolcsout&n=4 http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yolcsout&n=5
  20. Nothing like throwing out a challenge for those who want to have a go. Fun thing about climbing is the average joe can get up and do anything. the only constraints a person has is there own. You might also forget how many silent hardmen and women there are out there waiting for the route to come in shape.
  21. Right on dberdinka. Thanks for the jump and the info.
  22. Yeah, I guess all good things have to come to an end sometime. But its not the end yet. Canadian Rockies were good. Did 2 O'clock Falls, SAR's on Ice thru 5.7.0., Grotto Falls and Professor Falls. Fun stuff. Wanna get back up there soon. Lets get out soon. Maybe you, JG and I can head up to Little Wet.
  23. I might be moving to the area and am interested to hear how you like living in Bellingham. How are the people, access to climbing, climbing gyms, cost of living, climbing community, etc? I'm in the final interviewing stages for a job in the area and am looking for a little beta on the area before I commit to moving. Thanks for any and all information.
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