TimL

Dru - Not sure how long you'll be at Smiff but Fred Rogers and I should be down there Wed-Sat and your more then welcome to join.

This concludes my brief little jaunt into the spray category.

I prefer the cheerleaders when I watch football.

Personal, death and beating threats are not cool. CCsprayfuckers.com without Cavey. Get real man, Cavey tells it the way he sees it good or bad and is not afraid to give somebody a big helping of shutthefuckup. All of which is very entertaining. If Cavey is banned then why isn't Trask banned?

Anybody know what the peak is in the upper left hand corner? The face you can see looks interesting.

If I remember correctly there is no tree anymore. It perished in the fire last year. Fred Rogers and I did this route a couple years ago. I think its 2 long pitches maybe 3 short ones. The first pitch is kind of hard to find but it’s on the left hand side of the buttress. I think you could find anchors to bail from probably leaving a little gear or there might be a nasty, down sloping ledge you can walk off of mid climb. Once you top out walk off to the right. If you go left you'll run into a slabby cliff system above Lazy Boy. While your up there sample Mr. Tremendous, Scholar with a dollar, Lazy Boy and Radio Sex. All really good pitches for their grade.

I've been getting shit for selling my board for ice gear for 2-3 years now. Poor Fred is still in trauma. So much he ridding with tele racers... Buy Fred's passes. This weekend will be good for being on the slopes!

I think its the Passenger that BB put up between the South Arete and E Butt? It looks really good!

In my opinion, please note its just that with no specific approach to choosing the better climbs besides my experience, I thought both E Butt of SEWS and NW Corners of NEWS were both super good routes in the same classic category as Lib Crack. Very fun with good climbing. But I bet there are some other good ones out there. Specialed, we'll have to search for them this summer!

I've only climbed Lib Crack once using the standard route. I thought there were a couple good pitches and a couple bad in the second hlaf but I was a little dissapointed as well in comparing it to the first half of the route. If you compare it to your typical mountain route, then yes it has many good pitches in comparision to bad. Nevertheless, its a good route. True there are better routes in the area but we should all be glad there is not a line up on those as Liberty Crack. PMS - Sounds like I'll have to do the direct this summer. Whats different then the regular route?

IMO - I would say you could use a single 60m 9.4 for pretty much anything, but why would you want to? Sport climbing and glacier climbing are at the extreme ends of climbing. When I'm climbing sport routes at the crags I fall. Not only fall, but big falls. I wouldn't want to be falling on a rope that I don't know how many times its been cramponed or suffered from the wear and tear of alpine climbing. And if you do get an all in one rope I think you wear it all pretty fast and you'll spend just as much or more money buying a second rope in a year then if you had purchased 2 ropes in the beginning. This might not work for everyone but I think having 2 separate ropes is the way to go. Try a 9.8 60meter something for sport climbing and maybe more technical rock routes. Then either a 30m 8.5 or even a 60m 8.5 for glacier and easy 5th class climbs. With this system you can also, choosing the 60m x 8.5, use it as a tag and rap line.

Wayne - that makes me feel better. I've attempted Chair in winter 2 times, Clean Break 2 times, Prussik Peak South Face 2 times, Whitehoarse 1 time and NE ridge on Kyes 1 time, Colchuck Balenced Rock 1 time. If 3 is the magic number then this year should be good. Oh, seems like everytime I post on CC its a failed attempt at something or the other.

After browsing the failed attempts thread it started me thinking about successful attempts. Then I started thinking not only of successful attempts, but what time of year I do the most mountain routes with the least failures and the factors surrounding the successes. Just off the top of my head I think I complete a fair amount of mountain routes during late July, August and September. I think I have better luck during this time period for a number of reasons including weather. Does anyone else agree, disagree have an opinion? Lets hear it.

WWI & II are a much different situation then the war we are fighting today. Your song has little meaning in the terms of the Iraq War. Its not a patriotic war. Its a war for black colored blood pumped from the deserts of Iraq. If there is a modern day Hitler I think Bush would fit into the category. The only difference is he's killing our young men as well as the Iraq people.

Get wit the program man...the best scenery is in the Dihedrals and Morning Glory area. I mean, for what other reason would you climb at Smith?

One route that comes to mind is "Hemp Liberation". Sound familiar E?

Bird closures might be affecting parts of those areas. You might check at Smith Rock.com or the parking lot kiosk will have bird closure info. Last couple weekends we climbed around Moons of Pluto and Split Image area. Nobody there and there are some good routes.

I met Dino last spring in the valley after he and Crazy Jamis got off ZM. Cool guy. Hopefully his recovery will be quick.

Nice!

Right on! EOS sounds like a nice mind bending climb. We'll have to do it soon. I have some crazy moving/new job stuff going on in the next couple of weeks but we'll see what happens. I'd like to climb as much as possible before the golden handcuffs get put on.

So are they actually to the left and below of the handcrack. I saw the bolts last year and thought they could be used as a descent but looked as if they are for another route. They are obviously not in the correwct position to be a belay for Outer Space. I'm not an advocate of bolting a rap station on the SCW. I think it would add a certain level of chaos to the whole affair. If these are the updated anchors to the Edge of Space I think thats cool. Thanks to the folks who updated the hardware. I'd much rather walk off, especially if its in the dark, than rap the route. I'm going to have to do Edge of Space this spring. Sounds like good times!

Here is some enlightenment! There won't be an access war if we, as a collective group of climbers, are smart enough not to start one on a trade route thats in plan view of the gorgeious, bavarian metropolitian cuty of Der Leavenworth. Besides, the bolts in question are anchors to Edge of Space that were upgraded by some gracious soul. Would it be a big difference if they were 2 bolts that people would put webbing around or chains that people won't have to mess with. Hopefully this won't intiate some people from giving their asses a break from frequent crowbar misuse and taking it upon themselves to remove the hardware in question.

I heard a 2nd hand account of this accident at the crag a couple weekend ago. From what I understand a local lead up the 1st and 2nd pitch of Magic Light as one pitch, threaded the rope through the anchors and lowered off from the top of the second pitch to the anchors on the top of the 1st pitch. Some time previous to this climb the local cut off part of the end of his rope thus shorting the rope from the oringinal length. Just as the local was lowered to the top of the first pitch the rope slide through the belayers device and the local decked. I was told he landed on his feet and suffered a broken back and sternum but it recooperating from his injuries. I think the lesson to learn from this unpleasent incident is to make sure a knot is in the rope or the belayer is tied into the system if the decision is made to lower off. Hiopefully the guy who got hurt will get better soon.

PP - Erik already has a nice new sporty chalk bag. Next thing will be lycra.