TimL

IMO - I would say you could use a single 60m 9.4 for pretty much anything, but why would you want to? Sport climbing and glacier climbing are at the extreme ends of climbing. When I'm climbing sport routes at the crags I fall. Not only fall, but big falls. I wouldn't want to be falling on a rope that I don't know how many times its been cramponed or suffered from the wear and tear of alpine climbing. And if you do get an all in one rope I think you wear it all pretty fast and you'll spend just as much or more money buying a second rope in a year then if you had purchased 2 ropes in the beginning. This might not work for everyone but I think having 2 separate ropes is the way to go. Try a 9.8 60meter something for sport climbing and maybe more technical rock routes. Then either a 30m 8.5 or even a 60m 8.5 for glacier and easy 5th class climbs. With this system you can also, choosing the 60m x 8.5, use it as a tag and rap line.

Wayne - that makes me feel better. I've attempted Chair in winter 2 times, Clean Break 2 times, Prussik Peak South Face 2 times, Whitehoarse 1 time and NE ridge on Kyes 1 time, Colchuck Balenced Rock 1 time. If 3 is the magic number then this year should be good. Oh, seems like everytime I post on CC its a failed attempt at something or the other.

After browsing the failed attempts thread it started me thinking about successful attempts. Then I started thinking not only of successful attempts, but what time of year I do the most mountain routes with the least failures and the factors surrounding the successes. Just off the top of my head I think I complete a fair amount of mountain routes during late July, August and September. I think I have better luck during this time period for a number of reasons including weather. Does anyone else agree, disagree have an opinion? Lets hear it.

WWI & II are a much different situation then the war we are fighting today. Your song has little meaning in the terms of the Iraq War. Its not a patriotic war. Its a war for black colored blood pumped from the deserts of Iraq. If there is a modern day Hitler I think Bush would fit into the category. The only difference is he's killing our young men as well as the Iraq people.

Get wit the program man...the best scenery is in the Dihedrals and Morning Glory area. I mean, for what other reason would you climb at Smith?

One route that comes to mind is "Hemp Liberation". Sound familiar E?

Bird closures might be affecting parts of those areas. You might check at Smith Rock.com or the parking lot kiosk will have bird closure info. Last couple weekends we climbed around Moons of Pluto and Split Image area. Nobody there and there are some good routes.

I met Dino last spring in the valley after he and Crazy Jamis got off ZM. Cool guy. Hopefully his recovery will be quick.

Nice!

Right on! EOS sounds like a nice mind bending climb. We'll have to do it soon. I have some crazy moving/new job stuff going on in the next couple of weeks but we'll see what happens. I'd like to climb as much as possible before the golden handcuffs get put on.

So are they actually to the left and below of the handcrack. I saw the bolts last year and thought they could be used as a descent but looked as if they are for another route. They are obviously not in the correwct position to be a belay for Outer Space. I'm not an advocate of bolting a rap station on the SCW. I think it would add a certain level of chaos to the whole affair. If these are the updated anchors to the Edge of Space I think thats cool. Thanks to the folks who updated the hardware. I'd much rather walk off, especially if its in the dark, than rap the route. I'm going to have to do Edge of Space this spring. Sounds like good times!

Here is some enlightenment! There won't be an access war if we, as a collective group of climbers, are smart enough not to start one on a trade route thats in plan view of the gorgeious, bavarian metropolitian cuty of Der Leavenworth. Besides, the bolts in question are anchors to Edge of Space that were upgraded by some gracious soul. Would it be a big difference if they were 2 bolts that people would put webbing around or chains that people won't have to mess with. Hopefully this won't intiate some people from giving their asses a break from frequent crowbar misuse and taking it upon themselves to remove the hardware in question.

I heard a 2nd hand account of this accident at the crag a couple weekend ago. From what I understand a local lead up the 1st and 2nd pitch of Magic Light as one pitch, threaded the rope through the anchors and lowered off from the top of the second pitch to the anchors on the top of the 1st pitch. Some time previous to this climb the local cut off part of the end of his rope thus shorting the rope from the oringinal length. Just as the local was lowered to the top of the first pitch the rope slide through the belayers device and the local decked. I was told he landed on his feet and suffered a broken back and sternum but it recooperating from his injuries. I think the lesson to learn from this unpleasent incident is to make sure a knot is in the rope or the belayer is tied into the system if the decision is made to lower off. Hiopefully the guy who got hurt will get better soon.

PP - Erik already has a nice new sporty chalk bag. Next thing will be lycra.

Free mustache rides for the ladies!!!!

DFA or anyone that knows. Can you run together the last 2 pitches on White Satin with a 60? Seems like it would be a nice ling pitch up the dihedral!

Dude, thats a spoto chalk bag ad you know it.

Muffy - werd up sista. Tell it like it is you guys coming to smiff this weekend?

IMHO I think that your cavalier attitude towards climbing is totally wrong. Climbing is dangerous. People do get fucked up and killed doing the sport and have more chances of getting seriously hurt than volleyball, baseball or basketball. Climbing is much, much different then large team sports. Frankly, one reason way I enjoy climbing is because it, in most situations, is not a large team sportlacks competition towards another team. Back to the point, to dismiss climbing as the some as any other team sport is sugar coating the truth. For me I think I would explain climbing to a person I was in a relationship with as being dangerous, but I climb with people that have the experience needed to climb in a manner that is safety conscience and self responsible in whatever form of climbing it may be from alpine to sport climbing.

Super Crack is so on the list for this year. So is the left side of the split. Mike - you'd reccomend to bring a # 5 for that one? After seeing Pipeline that stuff looks awesome to. Raft Rock crack looks like a really cool line from the road. Looks dirty though. What about Mastadon Roof? Although pro is not reccomended to 5 its looks like it could get large. Leavenworth does rock. Gustavs greasy fries and are the best.

I have a buddy who clips double biners into the bolts especially when he is close to the ground. The same buddy is old school and climbed the Nose and Astroman on nuts and hexes. I think its a generation thing. When I saw him clipping into double biners I was amazed but didn't say anything cause I couldn't see anything wrong with it, just out of the ordinary. The only time I've heard of people using single biners to clip the rope besides pendulums and retreats are when someone is working a hard route and doesn't want to take a longer fall or is close to the ground. If I remember correctly, look at the pictures of Sharma climbing Realization. I think you might notice single biners clipped into the bolt next to the qd.

good job

Thats an amazing crack! Thats what I'm talking about!

Wow, I'd like to see those routes.