TimL

Right on Rumar! Thanks for helping me on Kings of Rap. The time warp between ice climbing in the canadian rockies and sport climbing at Smith was an interesting change. Smith was awesome this weekend. What a fun group to go down with! And nobody in the park! Rumar - I have your 70m.

Drove out to Leavenworth today in hopes of finding some climbable ice. If your thinking about heading out there Sunday the only ice you'll find is ice cold beer at Gustavs. Granted others may have different opinion, but the following is what I observed. Hubba Hubba: Hiked up to the base with the hopes of the ice being thicker than it looked from the road. The central flow was the only thing that looked like it had ice but upon getting to the base there was about an inch of ice, at the thickest places which were few, with no ice touching the ground. For the most part it was thin smears of ice/verglass with snow covering. I would have a problem calling it remotely close to being "in" even for the ambitious. Right and left flows had even less ice. Maybe after a solid cold snap it will go. Falls across from SC parking lot: Bring goggles, flippers and a snorkel. Drury: From the road it looked like it was starting to form with varying degrees of ice from bottom to top. Looked like the upper falls had some big holes. Pencil: Although this is the first time I've ever seen the climb, it looked like it was forming with ice starting at the base and continuing all the way up to the feeder snowfields. Very beautiful line.

Try the first pitch of the Lizard on GNS at Index you feel the need to test belayer skills.

Practiced being a snow plow.

Although Fred Rogers and I plowed a fairly good trench in the alpental valley yesterday, I would highly reccomend snowshoes as well.

Right on guys! Good work. Thanks for the conditions update.

After the towers and before the last 2 pitches I think. Could be thinking of another climb.

North Ridge of Stuart Angels Crest on the Chief are a couple that come to mind.

You guys takinging about the route to the right of Breakfeast of Champions above Rogers Corner?

Smack in a pin

I'm not driving to Smith from Indianapolis, Indiana, although I'd like to. You guys send something for me this weekend. I'll be sitting around with realtives and with the good ole gals and boys.

quote: Originally posted by RuMR: J dog and I will be there Fri and Sat. You guys suck. Heading to Smith while I'm stuck in the flatland. Have fun!

I know someone wants this stuff.

quote: Originally posted by RuMR: you don't climb sucka...better update your profile!!! How come yer not craggin' this weekend??? Bigger question is how come your not cragging this weekend. Wife got ya by the balls?

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Great thread! Biggest dissapointment was not getting to meet Scot'teryx.

Pray

Call me. MAybe we can clip some bolts on da Toof.

1.)Finally climbing the North Ridge of Stuart 2.)Leading my first couple 5.12 cracks (Daily Planet) 3.)Leading my first 5.13 sport route Churning at Smith, thanks to RuMAR 4.)Leading my first WI 4 pitch on Icey BC 5.)Climbing countless routes and standing on many summits with good friends (you guys know who you are), climbing with new friends and having many fun times. 5a.)Narrowing down the Cascade tick list with Fred Rogers in his time of unemployment and my time of underemployment. Dissapointments: 1.)Bailing off the Nose after 10 pitches. Round 2 next year. 2.)Not climbing North Ridge of Baker because we’re dorks 3.)Colchuck Balenced Rock. Round 2 next year 4.)Standing at the base of Clean Break, Juno Tower and not climbing it (thanks Wayne for dropping the rock on us…ha..ha) Next year brings new challenges and old ones will present themselves in a different light. [ 11-20-2002, 01:28 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

For sale: Koflach Artic Expedition Boot Size 10: $180 http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?productId=83699&storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&langId=-1 Arc’Teryx Bora 80: $180 http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?productId=9905431&storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&langId=-1 Both the boots and the pack have been used but are in good condition. PM me if interested.

Basically, what I'm saying is mastering all disciplines of climbing only adds to the resources you can use to style/adapt to any "hardman" climb you might pick. Besides, climbing is fun no matter if you a hard person or not. [ 11-19-2002, 08:57 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

quote: Originally posted by gregm: quote:Originally posted by Jens: I would have to agree with Dr.Ben Krazy. The route would include steep snow ice aid mixed skiing free rock And you'd get Brownie points for chopping a swimming hole in Lake Serene and taking a skiiny dip. i think hardman route status should include hellish approach factors; serious bushwacking, be it long or vertical. the pickets come to mind. has anyone mentioned nooksack tower yet? Alpine climbing seems to be so the "in" thing on this funny site. And its not that I almost always prefer climbing in the mountains to climbing at the crags, but I think crag pitches should be included. Even bolted crag pitches. I would by far consider some of the harder Index pitches to be hardman test pieces. I would also think that some of the hard bolted pitches at Smith to be hard man routes.

I think there are hardmen test pieces that are doable and get done once or twice a year, maybe more. Then I think there is a catagory of hardmen climbs all on there own that get barely ever get repeated. [ 11-18-2002, 12:36 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

I took a solo aid fall 10-15 feet onto a small RP and my gri-gri (lost on Tuesday at the Seattle VW if I might add) caught the fall perfectly. When soloing with a gri I always back it up with a clove hitch and always try to pay attention as to which way the biner is being loaded. Dr. Jay - PM me the beta on Shirly.

Forgot to mention the kick ass Mexican Food at Mi Pubeletos and dessert at the Italian joint across the street with the Eugene posse!