TimL

Yes, at Alpental on the way up to the Tooth. I should add photos are courtesy of Frank H and the BD Fusions were rented from Feathered Friends.

Not a circus...it was a good time with awesome folks! That place is really cool. Cheers to the folks who put the routes up, they are really good and well protected. The area provides a good opportunity to learn this type of climbing. Also, it seems like the NW would be a great place to open up more mixed climbing both trad and bolted. Really, ice is so scarce, why not open fun mixed lines to maximize what we have? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2744&password=&sort=1&cat=503&page=1

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2745

Yikes…so this weekend at Smith with Fred Rogers I think I totally screwed up a tendon while crimping on the crux holds of Darkness at Noon. This is my deal. I have about a 4 inch section of my tendon that starts hurting just below my wrist and continues into my forearm. It’s definitely my pointer and middle finger tendon. Its not horrible pain but it doesn’t feel like anything I should climb on. Has anyone had this problem? Is there anyway to tape? If I need to stop climbing on it, typically how long should I stop rock climbing? What have people done in the past to help an injury like this heal? Thanks for any and all info and thank God ice season is just around the corner.

i vote ricardo hero and lil willy zero. guess the internet is not a safe place to talk shit anymore......this site is great.

Was up there on Sunday at the Rap Wall. Probably want to give these routes some more snow and freeze/thaw action. It seemed like it was a foot of snow over rocks. Most ice that we saw was extremely thin and I’d have a hard time saying anything looked “in”. With these temps it shouldn’t be long. The rap wall is a cool place. After leading the M7- I couldn’t find chains at the top of the pitch. My guess if there was more/any ice then you could climb ice instead of slab and anchor off a tree. I decided not to slab climb in cramps and tools. The Rap Wall is a fun place, but would have been better with more ice. The folks who put it up did a good job.

I saw this piece of stone that Dberdinka is describing. Its friggin huge and left a sizable scare. I've seen rock fall come off the LTW and UTW during intense freeze thaw periods several times. Be careful and wear a helmet if you feel necessary.

What a great route. Thanks to bobbyperu for cranking with me and the folks who put the route up. It’s a must do route with short hard cruxes and fun moderate terrain spaced in between. The first bolted pitch is a full on rope stretcher. I was wondering if it would ever end. I think it’s important that people do this route so it’s not reclaimed. It was good seeing all the Index bros and to bad we missed you Specialed. That route we tr’d was friggin hard.

Check your pm's

Radio Sex Scholar with a Dollar Lazy Boy...... Nice job

See ya down there!

sweet!

I can’t believe nobody has mentioned Damnation crack at Castle Rock. There is also a good chimney that starts of NW Corner and W Face on NEWS. I heard a great comparison once that climbing chimneys are like having sex. You get in, wiggle around until everything feels right, then have at it.

I would have to say all the folks I climbed with this year. You guys know who you be. JJA, Erik, Alex, Cavey, Rumar & posse and of course...Fred Rogers and anyone else I shared a rope with or just talked smack. Climbers are a unique and awesome group of folks. Its refreshing to hang out with a group of people thats not so caught up in main stream bullshit.

Forget grades just go out and climb. But I'll go on a rant just for the sake of it. Most Squamish grades feel 2-3 letter grades easier at least. But its nice to have a "feel good about yourself" crag. If there wasn't easy grades then hard would't feel hard. I agree with Erik. Index, Yo and Smith are were its at least for me. Leavenworth is cool as well. Grades are also subjective to your psychological and physical state. I've fallen on 5.8 before when I clearly was leading much harder. I just wasn't in the mood to climb had a horrable hangover. A couple weeks ago at the base of ROTC when I insisted it felt like 10a my partner looked at me like I was crazy. Too me at that time it felt like 5.10-. Still does now. On a different note, it seems like the newer the climb was established the easier the route. I mean, you really don't ever come away from a route that was estabished years ago and think, "dam thats easy". I think 2 of the best crags in the state are Index and Midnight rock in Leavenworth. Unfortunately, it seems like a fair amount of routes at either place do not receive much traffic because the have the reputation of being sandbagged.

Chianti is another story. You know my phone #. Give me a call. You have some pictures of hauling the pig on the cap. Post them. It'd be funny. I've never seen them.

from Carazy Jamies emergency bivy kit......

Kinda reminds me of the time the 3 of us were in the valley at Reeds Pinnacle. Remember the lizard that changed colors........

Even Steven at Index kicked my ass the first time. I was weak and foolish. Went back the second time after a little training and sent it first go. Swim on the UTW just took me out. I still don't have the sacs to go back there and try it again.

Has anyone done the NE Ridge on Kyes? it looks good. i approached it one spring but turned around at a late hour with mushy snow.

Stuck at work today but anyone want to climb on Sunday? PM me if interested.

I’m sure climbers are a large percentage of the people Larry harasses are climbers, but lets not forget if he harasses climbers then he is bound to harass others as well. I think that this website is a forum were climbers can discuss the subjects while other groups might be more widely scattered. Yeah, and lets not forget him giving fee demo tickets while cars are getting broken into. Really, where can he be found when there is actually a crime being commited. Another part of this story is the constant negative attitude of the areas camp ground attendants. I can name a few incidents in which they spoken negatively towards a group of people or just plain harass others.

There is a certain Forest Service Ranger In the Leavenworth who likes to harass climbers and other outdoor enthusiast. I can give you his name from the ticket he wrote me on Saturday but he has been nicknamed Larry the Tool on this site and has been discussed many times. After being harassed by him last weekend, I think you could easily produce a compelling story as to the Forest Service and their interactions/lack of community relations with outdoor enthusiasts.

Try http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/recreate/reports.html