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#1152827 - 12/15/16 12:45 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
thatcher Offline
member

Registered: 06/21/05
Posts: 160
TRs: 2 Photos: 11
Loc: Seatac, WA
Anyone climbed or looked at Reid headwall recently? Looking for some beta.
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#1153257 - 01/23/17 11:38 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: mzamp]
mzamp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/11/08
Posts: 89
TRs: 1 Photos: 36
Loc: AZ
Woot woot! Dates are set. We more or less let airfare dictate which weekend to go based on the cheapest rates. It more or less split the difference between April/May by being the first weekend in May. Now to just cross my fingers for a good window and relatively mellow crowds. We scheduled a Friday climb with Saturday being a our backup day.

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#1154587 - 04/26/17 01:46 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
mzamp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/11/08
Posts: 89
TRs: 1 Photos: 36
Loc: AZ
Based on the good weather last week and the fact I saw a line of climbers on the webcam, the south side route is getting done. Anyone care to publish a trip report? Anyone? Beuller?

Also I have some rookie questions (for a climb May 5th or 6th):
1)Is it at all helpful to wear microspikes on the lower slopes or just go sans-traction until the crampons are needed?
2)I was planning on bringing rope/protection in case anyone gets sketched out so we can do a running belay. If we do, about how many pickets would be good? Is 3 sufficient?
3)Does it ever happen that climbers can go up fine, but get sketched out on the way down, requiring a rappel to be set up for them?
4)Bring Beacon/Probe/Shovel? Or leave them at home?

Thanks!

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#1154589 - 04/26/17 02:46 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17457
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
answers:
1. no
2. 1-2 pickets per person - but really, it's much more fun not to hike all that crap 6000 feet up hill - ditch the harness, screw, pickets & rope and just bring a 2nd axe or tool if you like (i do, but most people cruise up and down w/ just a single axe)
3. i've never seen anyone rap the south side and it seems silly - again, w/ 2 tools, just face in to the slope and you can shot down the steep part in just a couple minutes
4. south side is pretty mellow for slides, and there's little slide danger really at all until you get near crater rock - caveat climb-or smile
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#1154591 - 04/26/17 03:17 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: mzamp]
Bosterson Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/20/07
Posts: 306
TRs: 6 Photos: 14
Loc: Portland
1) No. The lower snow is generally soft. The point at which you want traction (early season - maybe top of the Palmer? late season - Hogsback) is the time to put on the crampons.

2) What Ivan said. I've seen people belaying up the top of the Old Chute and knocking large ice chunks down on me and everyone else, totally clueless. Sketched out people can descend and come back another day.

3) I also haven't seen people rappel. If people aren't sure they're comfortable up there (or will be comfortable coming down), they should descend and come back when they're mentally ready. All the ropework up there just makes it less safe for the rest of the hordes of people on the south side.

4) Check the NWAC forecast and don't go unless it's safe, then leave that stuff at home.
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#1154593 - 04/26/17 07:22 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
mzamp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/11/08
Posts: 89
TRs: 1 Photos: 36
Loc: AZ
Awesome! Thanks. I figured that was the case. I have to stop reading so much. Kinda like when I read how scary the knife edge was on Katahdin and we crossed the whole ridge wondering where it was. lol

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#1154598 - 04/28/17 08:41 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
plurpimpin Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/09/16
Posts: 35
TRs: 0 Photos: 4
Loc: PDX
everyone stuck in the traffic jam will hate you if you set up a running belay up the pearly gates. Likewise for rappelling.

I'm a firm believer that if you're not comfortable enough on steep snow to do either part of the southside climb (up or down) you should go do something easier like saint helens or south side of adams. The south side of hood really isn't that bad though, we watched a group swinging two tools each get passed by a black lab in the gates a few weeks ago.

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#1154621 - 05/01/17 12:33 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: ivan]
KaskadskyjKozak Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 04/23/04
Posts: 17063
TRs: 112 Photos: 1037
Loc: Above Treeline
Originally Posted By: ivan
answers:
1. no
2. 1-2 pickets per person - but really, it's much more fun not to hike all that crap 6000 feet up hill - ditch the harness, screw, pickets & rope and just bring a 2nd axe or tool if you like (i do, but most people cruise up and down w/ just a single axe)
3. i've never seen anyone rap the south side and it seems silly - again, w/ 2 tools, just face in to the slope and you can shot down the steep part in just a couple minutes
4. south side is pretty mellow for slides, and there's little slide danger really at all until you get near crater rock - caveat climb-or smile


If you bring a rope, just bring a 30m. If you are comfortable on the ascent, ditch it for the descent. a 30m rope is super light.

BUT... what Ivan said. if you have a tool and an axe, you will feel super secure. A rope will feel completely unnecessary
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#1154678 - 05/06/17 07:19 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
mzamp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/11/08
Posts: 89
TRs: 1 Photos: 36
Loc: AZ


Thanks for the great advice. We had an excellent day climbing. It was extremely windy early on, but as the sun rose the wind died down. The hogsback was in prime condition and booted in for an easy ascent sans rope. My two rookie companions ROCKED it! With all the stuff we do, I should have known the exposure wouldn't bother them...but you never know when you put someone on ice/snow wearing crampons.

The pic is of them topping out of the left PG.


Edited by mzamp (05/08/17 08:31 AM)

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#1155265 - 06/20/17 09:06 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
decrepit Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/11/02
Posts: 27
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: The Far East
I am thinking that there was a lot of snow this year, so the Cooper Spur might still be in shape this coming weekend. Anyone been up there who can provide some beta on snow conditions?

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#1155320 - 06/21/17 10:14 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: decrepit]
zaworotiuk Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/02/16
Posts: 2
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Eugene, Oregon
I didn't climb the Spur but I can share this photo from last weekend (the 18th):


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#1155325 - 06/22/17 10:12 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: zaworotiuk]
decrepit Offline
n00b

Registered: 08/11/02
Posts: 27
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: The Far East
Great! Thanks!

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#1155327 - 06/22/17 11:23 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
diepj Offline
member

Registered: 01/09/12
Posts: 133
TRs: 6 Photos: 113
Loc: PDX
Nice!! Wish it was going to be 20 degrees cooler...

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#1155677 - 07/15/17 01:47 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
Kameron Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/08/13
Posts: 7
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle, WA
Anybody recently looked at the Spur? Curious about snow conditions for skiing
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#1155679 - 07/15/17 10:30 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
Water Offline
veteran

Registered: 04/12/09
Posts: 1385
TRs: 8 Photos: 182
Loc: pdx
Haven't but.....i think you will have pretty choppy runnels/rock paths at this point, south side seems well past prime for skiing up high.
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