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Everything posted by decrepit

  1. [TR] Forbidden Peak - North Ridge 07/15/2018

    Looks great - thanks for the TR!
  2. Mt Hood

    Great! Thanks!
  3. Mt Hood

    I am thinking that there was a lot of snow this year, so the Cooper Spur might still be in shape this coming weekend. Anyone been up there who can provide some beta on snow conditions?
  4. Non-technical loops near Cascade and Easy Passes?

    A couple of weeks ago I made a loop from Easy Pass to Silent Lakes, then to Fisher Pass via the south slope of Arriva, then over into the basin below the Douglas Glacier, and from there down to the trail and back to Easy Pass. With a light pack and/or a little determination this is about three days. I took longer, and climbed Arriva, Fisher, and Logan as I passed. I used boots and axe in a couple of places, but the only place I put on crampons was on the Douglas Glacier, which is optional. The whole trip was never more technical than second class, with some bushwacking. I recommend it - it was a lot of fun.
  5. So, Shasta...

    This is a good suggestion. I've done this myself a couple of times, and nobody has hassled me yet...
  6. North Sister?

    Business will take me to Oregon this week, and I'm thinking about trying to sneak in a volcano climb when the boss is not looking. But... it seems late in the season. Are the north-side routes on the North Sister still in acceptable shape? I won't be able to ski, but I'm not interested in a choss slog.
  7. North Sister?

    Ooh - that picture is just what I needed. Even if the north side has more snow, a traverse across this c*!p would be required. Thanks! I'll save it for a better time.
  8. Where's those Montana types?

    One word: Beartooths!
  9. Photo Caption?

    "Guns, guts, and goldline"
  10. Itinerant Climbers

    Turns out that one of these guys died. http://www.cnn.com/2004/US/West/05/18/climbers.stranded.ap/index.html
  11. Great Article on oil!

  12. Naked Hiking

    That's Californicania for you. It's too cold to do that up here.
  13. My REI wish list

    ... Chance to spray REI, yuppies, and Annabelle all at once ... priceless!
  14. puter question: cheap cd r/w worthwhile?

    The cheap one works for me... It's all digital, but speed might be worth paying a little extra for.
  15. What "They" Say About Us.

    Are you kidding me? Climbing is an immature, big talking activity that's only for the young. That's why I keep doing it, even though I'm in my 40s. Anybody in the "climbing community" that has a problem with that should get a life.
  16. Check this out!

    According to the site, all the people in my area give to democrats, but vote republican!
  17. Winter Routes on Shasta

    Casaval should be casual. NOLSe is right - you want a lot of snow on the route, but I did it alone July 4 on a good snow year, and the only issue was the ~60 mph wind that literally knocked me over on the summit plateau. I only took one tool, but had crampons. There were no holes, little (but some) rockfall. Go for it - a rope would only slow you down. Descend one of the snow gullies to the north of Casaval - they go very quickly.
  18. Hot and Republican - does it get any better?

    and Jenna's a piece of work too! http://www.bettybowers.com/jenna.html
  19. Kautz Glacier!

    I agree with pete_a. Hazard is actually a safe enough place, but it's not far above your proposed first camp, and it's not a horrific day to the summit from your proposed camp. Make it short and sweet.
  20. Why?

    ... Because it's completely different from what I do in the rest of my life - interface with customers, network with associates, put a good spin on things, and mostly sit on my ass... Climbing (especially solo) is straightforward. You go up, you come down, you try not to make mistakes. If you do make mistakes, there are real consequences - not just a nonpromotion or reprimand. 'Been doing it for over twenty years, and in spite of my currently blown knee (one of those mistakes), I'm not going to stop!
  21. Ptarmigan Traverse

    OK - I knew there were glaciers on the route, but it sounds like these are Glaciers - worthy of respect at any time of year. Thanks - I'll wait for my son to become available... With no car shuttle, I'd pretty much assumed there wasn't enough time anyway, and there are lots of other things to do.
  22. Yeah, my 14 year old son and I climbed the Tower of Babel, Baal, She-Devil and He-Devil, all before noon on July 4 last year. Don't take a rope. The She-He Devil traverse is the only part that requires thought, but it's all third class. Easy, but nice mountains. Go there.
  23. Climber killed on Grand Teton

    Well, I suppose on the upper Exum they probably could/should have gotten off sooner, but in Colorado and Wyoming if everyone insisted on being off by noon, there are a lot of climbs that would never be done. When I lived there, I found that you could see a cycle that the storms would go through. They'd come earlier every day, and finally there would be a bad day when there was no climbing to be had, then a good day, and the cycle would start again. Sometimes when we worked that cycle we'd get surprised. Once we climbed Spearhead in RMNP, and summited at noon. It wasn't early enough. There was so much static in the air that the rocks were buzzing. There were two parties behind us on the route that day - I think they bailed. The guy I was with that day was later hit by lightning - survived!
  24. RMI, is it any good?

    Going with some club, somewhere, is probably the most important thing. None of us will take you, frankly, because we don't know you. We don't know what kind of shape you're in, we don't know how old you are, we don't know whether we can stand walking/talking with you for hours or days... When you go with a group or a club, you will meet people in person, and they will be able to answer those questions for themselves in short order. After that, if you pass the fitness/pleasantness test, you will find it much easier to find people to show you the ropes, literally. University Alpine Clubs are good places to meet people. BOEALPS might be too. Good luck.
  25. Ptarmigan Traverse

    Hey - how about this? I've got five days and a wake-up to work with, and no car shuttle. I'm with you on the need to climb some of the peaks, but I also want to scout the joint so I can bring my son next year. And I'll be alone. Can I have fun and survive all at the same time, or should I turn my attention elsewhere?