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Dylan Colon

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Everything posted by Dylan Colon

  1. Cable Car haters

    I was camping at the base of the Chief when it happened. Loud low metallic sound, thought it was some kind of heavy barge doing something out on the water at the time. Wild stuff. Does anyone have insight into how controversial, if at all, the cable car was among the local community?
  2. Conditions on Sisters??

    Nice job. The traverse on N Sister is probably "only" 45-50 degrees, but it sure feels steep when you're contemplating your certain doom should you screw up and slip unroped.
  3. Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge

    http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2019/06/west-north-side-conditions-photos.html hmmmm
  4. Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge

    I'm interested and I've done the Kautz. Let's watch the weather? A couple of the more long-range forecasts don't exactly look great for the weekend, but it's a long ways off and that could easily change for the better. For example: https://weather.com/weather/tenday/l/Mount+Rainier+National+Park+WANPSMORA:13:US I hope that's wrong, I'd love to give the route another try. In my experience this time of year storms predicted a long ways out often fail to materialize, so I have some hope.
  5. Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge

    Work is keeping me in town this weekend, but I'd be very interested in any later dates, if you end up postponing. I'm sorry to be inflexible on this. If you are able to go this weekend, have fun, the weather looks pretty good now (jealous)!
  6. Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge

    I'd be interested in the 15-17 dates, but honestly the forecast just doesn't look that great. Starting on the 14th is just too soon to make plans. The national weather service is calling for Sunday and Monday to be mostly cloudy, with a chance of high winds and snow showers later Monday. In light of recent events on that route, that doesn't seem like something I'd want to head up into, and that's probably why you aren't getting replies. If you would be able to wait for a later more stable forecast after that storm moves through, I'd be interesting in talking with you about arranging something.
  7. I was planning on climbing Liberty Ridge a few days ago, but descended from Curtis Ridge Monday morning instead of continuing up when the wind picked up that stranded the party that was just rescued yesterday. I posted a TR with a couple of conditions photos. I'd be interested in trying it again, but my previous partner is busy for the rest of the month. Is there anyone interested in heading up there next week if the weather looks good? Alternatively, if there is a party with established plans to head up there, looking for a +1, hit me up. The dates I suggested work well for me, but I'm pretty flexible as long as I have at least a week's notice. -Dylan EDIT: I changed the thread title to remove the suggested dates of Thursday-Saturday next week. I'm actually fairly flexible in this, and didn't want people to not look at the post just based on the title.
  8. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    According to posts by strangers on facebook they were rescued alive. Hopefully they are not badly frostbitten, and what a relief to hear this outcome.
  9. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    It's rather nauseating contemplating how close I was to being up there, having bailed from Curtis Ridge Camp Monday morning. But for a quirk of my partner's schedule, we very likely would have been on the same itinerary as the stranded party. Rooting hard for both them and the rescuers to get a good outcome. Some of the wind gusts Monday morning were pretty vicious at 7300', I shudder to imagine what they were going through at the top. EDIT: I briefly speculated in this post that we may have seen them as dots high on the ridge Sunday afternoon/evening, but I removed that as possibly irresponsible and impossible to confirm.
  10. [TR] MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall 03/10/2019

    What is the condition of the Pearly Gates right now (or a few days ago, at least)? Enough snow for a rare chance to ski?
  11. Government Shutdown

    I'm wondering if anyone here has been in Mount Rainier National Park since the shutdown began. Assuming the situation in the other Washington out east does not change soon, my understanding from the park website is that while travel on the road above Longmire is prohibited, other travel is not. If someone wanted to access higher elevations, would skinning up the Nisqually drainage past the bridge be viable, or is this unsafe/prohibited terrain? I know people ski to the bridge from above, but I was wondering if anyone had any intel about the situation in the park, either first or second hand. I fully understand that the lack of staff makes everything in the park even more dangerous than is normal this time of year, and I have no plans, just interested in the legalities/possibilities of going there in the next several weeks. Is it even possible to get backcountry camping or even climbing permits with the shutdown?
  12. In further retrospect, I think this fiasco might have been avoided if I had a bit more experience in understanding which wind and temperature combinations are able to melt an icy crust. I headed back up there yesterday (with a different partner), and had pretty much the opposite experience. Warm temps, mostly calm winds, and nice soft snow from the crater rim almost all the way down to the car. The temperatues actually surprised me in that they didn't completely liquify the snow, particularly lower down. I think in retrospect I will value my original Mount Saint Helens misadventure as a source of valuable lessons to aid in future judgement calls.
  13. No worries! I just should have been there when you were, because by the time I got there the wind was pretty gnarly. Worth it though. I don't think it changed the outcome, other than the slight chance we would have picked a better route down if there were still other people to talk to. Sounds like it was gross everywhere though.
  14. Mt Hood

    From what I remember from last summer the last time I was there, this includes the lower lot.
  15. Mt Hood

    I'd also like to know about this. My understanding from talking to a Timberline employee is that lots of stuff climbers and skiers do on a regular basis up there is against their rules. For example, I was told that skiers are not allowed to drop down into the Palmer snowfield and the runs below them from above, even in wintertime when the lifts are not running. As for the "no overnight parking" business, I talked to an employee at Mt Bachelor last summer, and was told that the rule is mainly aimed at dirtbag-types who would just live there if allowed, and that they don't really care about people parked there for a single night as long as they are unintrusive and not taking any good spots. I could certainly imagine Timberline similarly trying to keep people from spending a week or more in their parking lot while turning a blind eye to people who roll in in the late evening and are gone again by 10AM the next day after a lap on the hill. That said, rules are rules, and if this behavior is against the rules, resources about climbing Mt. Hood should note that.
  16. Recent intel on Sisters Marathon?

    I agree, I seriously considered doing the deed myself last time I was up there. That's thing's too dangerous to trust anyway, and a total eyesore. This might sound elitist, but I think that if you feel like you need that fixed line you probably shouldn't be there. IMO the only good reason to do that route is as part of a marathon, and if you can get up North Sister, you can get up the N Ridge of South as well, as unpleasant as the climbing there may be.
  17. Hi everybody! I'm a graduate student at the University of Oregon, and I'm going to be submitting my Ph.D. this weekend (already defended) and I'd like to celebrate with some mountaineering, particularly before I move away to somewhere much flatter in search of a job. The recent trip reports for the Liberty Ridge look pretty enticing, and I would love to get in on that action. I'm a moderately experienced volcano climber, and I've done the Northwest Right Gully on Hood, the Kautz Glacier (in late season icy conditions), and the Jefferson Park glacier (sans overly rimed summit ridge) without any serious issues. I have all of my own gear, and am comfortable soloing steepe neve, simulclimbing 45 degree alpine ice, and leading WI3. I tend to do reasonably well at altitude (though sea level to 14k always sucks at least some). I have a backcountry ski setup, and could be convinced to bring that, but I my skis are really heavy and I feel a bit of trepidation about dragging them up such a long technical route. I'd prefer a three day itenerary, but I'm flexible and could be convinced to stretch that in either direction within the constraints above. I've noticed the cold front/minor storm scheduled for this weekend, but things look good after that in the extended forecasts. I have family showing up Saturday monring in Portland for graduation, so I need to be off the mountain by then, but I'm free Monday-Friday. I'd prefer a three day itenerary, but I'm flexible and could be convinced to stretch that in either direction within the constraints above. I'm also open to suggestions for something comparable if conditions don't look good on Rainier or if someone has another goal they're looking for partners on. Thanks a lot! -Dylan Colon
  18. [TR] Wolf Rock - Barad Dur 9/25/2016

    I liked Barad Dur a bit better for the whole experience but would be more likely to recommend/repeat Morgul Vale, if that makes sense. I've not experienced anything quite like the exposure on the crux pitches of Barad Dur, and certainly not in Oregon.
  19. [TR] - Kautz Glacier 8/14/2016

    Trip: - Kautz Glacier Date: 8/14/2016 Trip Report: My friend Brian Meyers and I climbed Mount Rainier via the Kautz Glacier route last Monday the 15th through Wednesday the 17th. I thought I'd post some thoughts and pictures to let you all know how things are up there. TL,DR: The route is in great shape right now, but will require much more complicated crevasse navigation in the near future. We started from the Comet Falls trailhead, in order to avoid having to cross the Nisqually Glacier, which is a huge mess right now, loose rock, running water, crevasses, the works. This of course means we start at only a little over 3600', but it's cool to see all the life zones on the way up the trail. Falls low on Van Trump Creek. Comet Falls, a real gem. Van Trump Park, like Paradise, but we were literally the only ones there as far as I could tell, as opposed to the hundreds to thousands at Paradise. Climbing the snowfields leading up the Turtle. High camp just above the Turtle, but still several hundred feet below Camp Hazard, and the scary ice cliff. Why people camp so close to it is kind of beyond me. I guess it was less obviously dangerous in the pre-global warming era? Lovely view at dawn of Adams and Hood the second day. We got a bit of a later start than we should have (my fault), and started climbing up from camp at something like 5:30AM. We made it to the rappel down to the Kautz Glacier proper sometime roughly around 6:00 if memory serves. Another team had passed us earlier and was starting up the first ice pitch at about this time. We found the first ice pitch to be pretty moderate, but we started a little to low to link it with one 60m pitch (though I stopped at a stance rather than stretch the rope to its limit). We then belayed a second pitch, which wasn't really that necessary, but helped since I'm not that experienced of an ice climber, and my partner was totally new to it. We then simulclimbed to the base of the second pitch. This looked really intimidating at first, but I got excited to lead it once I was under it. We also waited a while to let the party ahead of us get off it, as a lot of junk was falling down the route from their climbing. The Kautz ice chute in all its glory. View of the second ice step. It looks short here, but was two long pitches. The second step proved to be about 100m or so of 45-50 degree glacial ice. Because we were running late at this point, and the sun was hitting it, there was a bit of a crumbly veneer that was dinner plating a lot, and there was some water running down the thing, but the ice underneath the top 0.5 inch or so was solid and took screws really well. That said, I only had 3-4 screws to place per pitch after accounting for anchors, which made the leads engaging. On the first pitch of the second step, which was the more sustained one, I traversed past a penitente for pro, which seemed solid, if not something I planned to test. Brian climbing the first of two pitches on the second step. After the second step we simulclimbed a few hundred feet more of neve before transitioning to normal glacier travel on the highly sun cupped upper slopes. There were quite a few small-medium cracks to cross, but nothing too dire and the end-runs we had to make were pretty easier. After some time, we caught up to the party of two above us, who had turned back from the upper slope of the Kautz, and they reported wet and deep snow with post-holing past the knees and scarily soft snow bridges above 13000'. This was nothing like the warm but firm conditions we'd encountered up till then, and wanting nothing of it, we decided to join them at a bivy at the top of the cleaver separating the Nisqually and Kautz glaciers at just over 13000'. We waited there until about midnight trying to sleep and fight off mild headaches from our rapid ascent. The upper Kautz Glacier and Point Success. After packing up, we ascended the newly-refrozen Kautz Glacier, now roped together as a party of four for convenience and safety. Big crevasses necessitated going towards Point Success rather than heading over the Nisqually towards the DC. We climbed with good moonlight and barely needed our headlamps, and things went smoothly. We passed quite near, but not straight over, Point Success. I regret this slightly, as I imagine I may not be near that summit for a very long time again. We finally made the top of Columbia Crest at about 3AM. Sorry, no summit pictures, as my flash was not working. Going down the DC route was a completely different world, with a sidewalk-like bootpack for most of it, wands, and several ladders bridging the crevasses. We also multiplied the number of other human beings we'd seen by about 20 compared to the previous day. We only made one small route finding error, following an old bootpack that had been rerouted over a bridge that was getting much too thin for good sense (of course we realized this just in time to have to go back and cross it again!). The views from the DC sure are purty though. Emmons Glacier from the DC. Lower Ingraham Glacier and the Ingraham Flats camp. Brian's opinion of descending 9500' in heavy mountaineering boots in just a few hours. Hard to worry about sore feet toooo much though. Once back I managed to hitch hike back to the car pretty easily for a successful end to the trip. All in all, its a great route, and it's pretty fun right now, go get it while the bridges on the upper mountain make it still pretty simple! Gear Notes: 7 ice screws, a few pickets, the ice screws got plenty of use, I think we placed one picket the whole trip. Approach Notes: Nisqually Glacier is a big mess down low, lots of dangerous loose rock, so we took the longer approach via Comet Falls and Van Trump Park.
  20. Mt Hood

    Anyone been on the North Face gullies lately? I was wondering if they are nice ice or just a ton of snow.
  21. Mt Hood

    I thought I'd cautiously appeal to the wisdom of the crowd in deciding whether do drive up to Hood from Eugene for a Sunday summit attempt with a possible ski descent. The weather looks quite nice on Sunday, but I'm deeply worried about the possibility of a big fat storm slab forming on the Old Chute during Friday's storm. It looks like that snow should be accompanied by strong winds out of the west, so I imagine the chute itself at least won't be wind loaded? Worse still, it will be warming up rapidly on Sunday, but I at least imagine that I can make the summit around dawn and avoid melt-triggered slides. I feel like I'm competent enough to dig a pit and decide on my overall likelihood of killing myself up there but I'd rather only go all of the way up there if I felt like there was a decent chance of the entire route being safe to the summit, otherwise I'll look for a place to ski closer to home. Finally, if I wanted to judge snow conditions on the old chute, does anyone know of a good place to dig a pit that is representative but not exposed? Is there a standard spot people look or not so much? Thanks and any advice is appreciated including telling me I'm stupid if I deserve it.
  22. Mt Hood

    Thanks Ben, that is pretty much what I expected, but was hoping someone would prove me wrong. I'm completely inexperienced when it comes to judging when it might be good to go in the fall; I've only done spring and summer climbs. How much snow needs to be up there in order for there to be a good source of melt for the gullies? How many days of dripping (high freezing level between intervals of low freezing level, right?) need to happen to form protectable, stable ice up there? I'm not in a big hurry to get up there, I realize things are pretty much f---ed after the year we've had, but I was hoping for a bit of insight into when it might not be a complete waste of time to go check it out.
  23. Mt Hood

    Any one know if anything is forming in the North Face gullies right now? There has been cold weather and precipitation, at least ... I'd love to hear about any hint of early season ice, if anyone is willing to share.
  24. Barad Dur - Route Upgrade

    Thanks! May I ask which pitches were updated? Also, does anything know anything about (Chris Fralick's?) route "The Steps of Cirith Ungol." There is a brief mention in Greg Orton's guidebook but I can find nor hear nothing else. Is it remotely safe or is it a bunch of these kind of quarter-inchers?
  25. Trip: Three Sisters, Oregon - Marathon Date: 9/12/2015 Trip Report: Seizing the beautiful weather this weekend, three friends and I made a north to south traverse of the Three Sisters yesterday. The climb was pretty uneventful and conditions were very good the whole way. The nastiest climbing was actually on the north ridge of South Sister, rather than on North Sister, as we had expected. Being a north face, it has held on to a bit of last week's snow, making the rock wet in places. We encountered a fixed rope that led off to the right where the really really bad red rock begins. Climbing alongside this fixed rope proved to be the crux of the route and was really quite nasty. We did the traverse in a very unremarkable time of 16 hours 35 minutes, but with a 3 AM start that still left time to get beers and food in Bend afterwards. Edit: I meant to mention that Thayer Glacier on North Sister was no where to be seen, it seems that any remaining ice has been completely covered by recent rockfall. I wonder if it can be really called a glacier at this point? Top of North Sister. View from North Sister. View from Middle Sister. Sadly South Sister wasn't looking much closer. Definitely the most depressing view of the day. Looking back at North Sister from Middle Sister. Looking back up at Middle Sister. View of South Sister's north face from Chambers Lakes. Looking south from Chambers Lakes. Scrambling up nasty "rock" on the north ridge of South Sister. A pool of water in South Sister's crater. Teardrop pool did not seem to be formed in the usual place, perhaps it drained out?