mzvarner Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 I climb sport, long trad, alpine, ice. Im looking for light and packable thats comfy, with lots of room for gear and takes ice clippers. Whats your take? Quote
Coldfinger Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 Petzl Hirundos. Used to only buy adjustable leg loop harnesses but no more. It's great for sport and doesn't absorb much water. Quote
Friedrich Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 Well, Steve House is a fan of the Metolius Safe-Tech, and it's hard to argue against him. But everything is a compromise, so it might be best to specialize a bit. Although I have a great all-around harness by Petzl (no longer made) I find that for Alpine I always end up taking my BD alpine Bod. The light weight and easy/on off dropseat design just wins. I don't have to sit down or balance awkwardly to insert my boot-clad feet like I would with the Petzl; it's just thread, double back, clip and go. Ask yourself how often you hang while doing the type of Alpine climbing you do, and for how long. So one harness for sport which is padded and comfy, and a $30 alpine bod for the snow, that's my rec. You can permanently attach your ice clippers with tape like many people do, or use a sling like Dane and some others recommend. just my 2 cents. Quote
selkirk Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 For alpine sort of stuff i'd skip the Alpine Bod and go for BD Couloir. Same function, just as uncomfortable to hang in but lighter weight and more compactable Definitely not a harness if you're going to be whipping and or hanging in it though Quote
sobo Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 So one harness for sport which is padded and comfy, and a $30 alpine bod for the snow, that's my rec. +1 Agree with Friedrich - you're gonna need at least two harnesses. And another vote for the BD Alpine Bod for lightweight packability, no-muss/no-fuss leg entry, and for the all-important dropping of trou for those "environmental moments" that we all must endure en route... I also have an older version of the padded style of the Bod for sport/trad climbing. Has four gear loops, and all the same benefits of the Alpine Bod, but with the tre chic Synchilla padded waistband. The newer version of this harness now has a belay loop, whereas the older version worked just like the Alpine Bod (i.e., no belay loop). With the (new) belay loop, this harness will not allow you to drop trou without undoing the waist buckle. Bod Quote
sobo Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 For alpine sort of stuff i'd skip the Alpine Bod and go for BD Couloir. Same function, just as uncomfortable to hang in but lighter weight and more compactable I have an older version of the Alpine Bod that doesn't have all of the plastic buckle thingies. It's pretty damn light and compactable, but I guess it's not made that way anymore. So after taking a look at BD's website, I'm going with 'kirk on this one... Alpine Bod 14 oz, 4 gear loops, no hook-ups for Ice Clipperz, $38 Couloir 8 oz, 2 gear loops, 4 Ice Clipperz attachment points, $50 There ya go, the choice is yours, but it looks like the Couloir fits your stated criteria... Quote
keenwesh Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 Petzl Hirundos. Used to only buy adjustable leg loop harnesses but no more. It's great for sport and doesn't absorb much water. I can't tell if it has slots for ice clippers. perhaps you could enlighten me... Quote
ryanb Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 If alpine and long trad means lots of semi hanging belays and not just walking up hill then the arcteryx harnesses are hard to beat. They aren't cheap (though old models have been showing up on steepandcheap etc) but do the best job of meeting the criteria you set out and are worth it if you spend enough time hanging in them. Quote
BirdDog Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 I have BD Alpine Bod, old style. I was going to upgrade to a Couloir last summer; hung on one in the store and decided to keep my alpine bod. Couloir is lighter and much more compact, but I would not want to spend anytime hanging in one, pretty uncomfortable not to mention loss of circulation etc.. For sport - get a padded harness. Quote
Dane Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 I use a Petzl Hirundos year around as well as a gear sling if required. I simply copied a few others I know who found the Hirundos before me. You can't miss the colors. And yes the Hirundos two clipper slots. As a really simple harness...not my thing though..I like the Blue Ice Choucas harness. Likely the easiest in and out with skis or over crampons. Quote
mzvarner Posted January 12, 2012 Author Posted January 12, 2012 wow this thread got a few replies fast. Thanks for all your input. Quote
Water Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 I have the couloir-hard to beat the size/weight/etc for glacier and alpine or whatnut. but in hanging in it just a few minutes doing some CR practice/pulling on the rope, did myself some nitfy chaff/bruising, way easier than I would have expected. So, heed the 'hang in it' aspect if you're going to be using it that much. For instance I don't even consider it as a 2nd harness for me or a friend for indoor TR'ing. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) Got an old Hirundo and like it. Unfortunately the new models no longer have the hard plastic gear loops. Edited January 12, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
RafalA Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 Arcteryx B-360a. Light, small (for it's features), super comfy, lots of ice clipper slots, six gear loops. Expensive but worth it. Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 I've been pretty happy with my Petzl Adjama as an all around harness, reasonable balance of weight and features and comfort. I found the Arcteryx options not terribly comfortable to hang in. I'd go with the Sama next time as I never use the adjustable leg loops either. I do like the plastic gear loops that have since been discontinued. For an alpine harness I use a CAMP XLH 95, basically when I don't expect much technical climbing or need to rack much gear. But you didn't ask about light alpine harnesses. ;-) Quote
layton Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) camp air cr or the red arctyrx. I like the CR b/c it has adjustable leg loop for us skinny guys with big thighs. haul loops on both are a joke, so just tie a piece of webbing in the back. my other harness for long routes with light approaches or for offwidths is the metolius safe tech. Edited January 13, 2012 by layton Quote
DPS Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 I have a Petzl Adjama. I guess what I like best about it is that I don't think about it. It just works well and seems to stay out of the way. It has slots into wich I slipped BD Fin carabiners to rack ice screws. It is also pretty adjustable so I can wear it rock climbing in a t shirt and shorts or over layers for winter alpine and ice climbing. Quote
sdizzle25 Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 whatever harness fits you best and has 4 gear loops with preferable ice clipper slots. and of course steve house likes the safe tech, i would too if i where sponsored, same goes for any manufacturer. Quote
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