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About RafalA

  • Birthday 03/03/1982


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    Canmore, Alberta

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  1. Looking for a pair of version 1 Nomics in excellent shape. Don't need to come with picks, weights, etc. but do need to be in next-to-new condition. (Broke mine, looking for replacements, not a huge fan of the new ones.)
  2. The new Arcteryx Alpha FL 30 & 45 were tested extensively by getting hauled up and down the Bugs. They held up pretty well, I'm told, though I haven't tried myself yet.
  3. Strap them together, wrap the front points in whichever pair of gloves I'm not wearing, shove into pack.
  4. The short answer: yes. The long answer: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/01/comparison-belay-devices/ I use the Camp Ovo (pretty much same thing as the Kong GiGi) as my primary device for bringing up seconds, complimenting either an ATC-Guide or a Reverso 4, depending on rope thickness. Also handy as a backup belay device in case you or your partner drop one. For the weight and cost, it's a no-brainer to bring one. Many guides I know use one to save their elbows when bringing up clients.
  5. OR Lodestar & Contact have pretty low-profile cuffs. Depends how much warmth you're after - define 'colder temps!'
  6. Ushba Basic on one strand, Camp Lift on the other, backpack tied to the end of the rope to weigh it down.
  7. I clip non-climbing stuff to it such as v-thread cord, knife, hooker, etc. Also store water bottle, gloves, belay jacket, etc. on it. The cord loop is surprisingly strong: I've hung myself from it (150lbs or so) and it held without issue.
  8. Get either the mini-hammer or the CT hammer - they don't stick out from the tol as far, and don't change the balance as much (though both still put it a bit towards the back). Or carry a third tool with a hammer.
  9. Use them all the time: they make for a better swing into ice, and slot into cracks nicely on rock. The only time I would not use them is hard sport mixed (say, M10/M11 and up) to make the tool lighter. I find at that point the pick weights don't come in handy anyway...
  10. Here's my take: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/07/field-tested-scarpa-rebel-gtx-carbon/ They've held up very well, considering all the sharp scree they've been subjected to. The sole is still doing well after 1.5 years, and the upper looks almost unscathed. Highly recommended. Nobody I know of who has a pair can figure out why Scarpa NA is taking these out in favour of the Rebel Pro (which is a much, much warmer boot).
  11. The usual 'need to sell stuff so I can buy new stuff' post. (Sorry about the big pics... uploaded before I realized their size!) All items shipped from Canmore, AB at buyer's expense. Everything OBO, and willing to trade (open to ideas, mostly interested in a single-wall alpine tent). Contact raf at thealpinestart dot com thanks! Arcteryx Vertical SV gloves - women's small - purple - $125 The short-cuff version of the Alpha SV, with the same removable fleece liner and Gore-Tex outer. Hardly used: they don't fit my wife's hands very well. Arcteryx Tactician AR gloves - men's medium - natural - $75 Amazingly well-cut gloves. They feel like, well, a glove. Supple but tough leather throughout. Selling cause I have too many gloves... Arcteryx Kappa Hoody - men's medium - blaze orange - $150 Phenomenal belay jacket. Love this thing but got something else coming my way so one of them has to go. Warm, tough, relatively light. A few marks: Scarpa Phantom Guide - EU43.5 / US10.5 - $250 Awesome, awesome ice climbing boots. Work well for general mountaineering too, though they might be a tad warm. Used for a year and a half or so, still in great shape with a lot of life left. They're getting replaced with something new, don't really need multiple pairs of the same style of boot... Osprey Atmos 65 - size medium - $175 Essentially brand new other than the dirt. Used on one multi-day trip, otherwise tested while cragging - it just plain doesn't fit me. Which is too bad, cause I love the ventilated back and multitude of organizational pockets. Camp Flash Anorak - size medium - $50 Very cool idea, and awesome piece of clothing. However, I've realized I neither hike nor skimo enough to use this to its full potential... used maybe half a dozen times on various approaches. Essentially brand new.
  12. Stopped using my Gamma MX a couple of years ago as I just found it too warm. (Great jacket otherwise!) Patagonia Knifeblade is great - same fabric as Gamma MX (Polartec Power Shield Pro) but without the fleece backing. Amazing fit for climbing (though I don't have the new jacket version, yet) and good length. Another good option is Arcteryx Gamma SL Hybrid - lighter fabric, not as windproof, highly breathable, stretchy and fairly durable. Long enough it stays tucked in, too. For colder or windier days when using the Gamma SL, I will also bring a Gore-Tex Active shell - light (300g) but 100% wind and water proof. For mid-layers I use everything from Arcteryx Phase Zips (mostly SL and AR weights) as more light-weight pieces to Patagonia R1 and Piton Hybrid for very cold days. I'd also suggest you look at the new Polartec Alpha pieces (Westcomb, Montane, Mammut, a few others are using it) - I haven't used any yet, but the tech promises a lot, and the jackets I've seen are cut well for climbing and promise to be a one-item solution (insulation with protection and climbing comfort).
  13. Sterling Nano 9.2 is single and half certified. For ice, I've been using Sterling Photon 7.8 in 70 and they're phenomenal - they stay dry, don't fuzz, don't tangle much - for skinny ropes anyway. Had the Petzl Dragonfly 8.2, absolute crap. They had fuzzed and started soaking up water like a sponge after three routes. They also tangled like nothing I've ever seen before or since. Returned them. Curious to try the new Petzls (now made by Edelrid... coming spring '14) Mammut is always a good option, too - for ice I'd go Phoenix 8.0. Have used the Phoenix 8.0 and Genesis 8.5 extensively and would highly recommend either. Had Edelweiss 8.2s and they were quite good as well, though didn't stay as dry as the Sterling or Mammut ropes. There are some interesting options out there these days... say, a Mammut Serenity 8.7 with a Phoenix 8.0 gives you the option to climb on a single with a tag, or use them together as halfs or twins...
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