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Everything posted by RafalA

  1. The usual 'need to sell stuff so I can buy new stuff' post. (Sorry about the big pics... uploaded before I realized their size!) All items shipped from Canmore, AB at buyer's expense. Everything OBO, and willing to trade (open to ideas, mostly interested in a single-wall alpine tent). Contact raf at thealpinestart dot com thanks! Arcteryx Vertical SV gloves - women's small - purple - $125 The short-cuff version of the Alpha SV, with the same removable fleece liner and Gore-Tex outer. Hardly used: they don't fit my wife's hands very well. Arcteryx Tactician AR gloves - men's medium - natural - $75 Amazingly well-cut gloves. They feel like, well, a glove. Supple but tough leather throughout. Selling cause I have too many gloves... Arcteryx Kappa Hoody - men's medium - blaze orange - $150 Phenomenal belay jacket. Love this thing but got something else coming my way so one of them has to go. Warm, tough, relatively light. A few marks: Scarpa Phantom Guide - EU43.5 / US10.5 - $250 Awesome, awesome ice climbing boots. Work well for general mountaineering too, though they might be a tad warm. Used for a year and a half or so, still in great shape with a lot of life left. They're getting replaced with something new, don't really need multiple pairs of the same style of boot... Osprey Atmos 65 - size medium - $175 Essentially brand new other than the dirt. Used on one multi-day trip, otherwise tested while cragging - it just plain doesn't fit me. Which is too bad, cause I love the ventilated back and multitude of organizational pockets. Camp Flash Anorak - size medium - $50 Very cool idea, and awesome piece of clothing. However, I've realized I neither hike nor skimo enough to use this to its full potential... used maybe half a dozen times on various approaches. Essentially brand new.
  2. Looking for a pair of version 1 Nomics in excellent shape. Don't need to come with picks, weights, etc. but do need to be in next-to-new condition. (Broke mine, looking for replacements, not a huge fan of the new ones.)
  3. question Metolius Freerider pack?

    The new Arcteryx Alpha FL 30 & 45 were tested extensively by getting hauled up and down the Bugs. They held up pretty well, I'm told, though I haven't tried myself yet.
  4. How do you pack your crampons?

    Strap them together, wrap the front points in whichever pair of gloves I'm not wearing, shove into pack.
  5. Kong GiGi vs ATC Guide

    The short answer: yes. The long answer: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/01/comparison-belay-devices/ I use the Camp Ovo (pretty much same thing as the Kong GiGi) as my primary device for bringing up seconds, complimenting either an ATC-Guide or a Reverso 4, depending on rope thickness. Also handy as a backup belay device in case you or your partner drop one. For the weight and cost, it's a no-brainer to bring one. Many guides I know use one to save their elbows when bringing up clients.
  6. Gauntlet: Hot or Not?

    OR Lodestar & Contact have pretty low-profile cuffs. Depends how much warmth you're after - define 'colder temps!'
  7. Favorite Solo TR set-up?

    Ushba Basic on one strand, Camp Lift on the other, backpack tied to the end of the rope to weigh it down.
  8. BD aspect harness- string loop?

    I clip non-climbing stuff to it such as v-thread cord, knife, hooker, etc. Also store water bottle, gloves, belay jacket, etc. on it. The cord loop is surprisingly strong: I've hung myself from it (150lbs or so) and it held without issue.
  9. Petzl Nomic Pick Weights?

    Get either the mini-hammer or the CT hammer - they don't stick out from the tol as far, and don't change the balance as much (though both still put it a bit towards the back). Or carry a third tool with a hammer.
  10. Petzl Nomic Pick Weights?

    Use them all the time: they make for a better swing into ice, and slot into cracks nicely on rock. The only time I would not use them is hard sport mixed (say, M10/M11 and up) to make the tool lighter. I find at that point the pick weights don't come in handy anyway...
  11. Anyone use Scarpa Rebel Carbon GTX?

    Here's my take: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/07/field-tested-scarpa-rebel-gtx-carbon/ They've held up very well, considering all the sharp scree they've been subjected to. The sole is still doing well after 1.5 years, and the upper looks almost unscathed. Highly recommended. Nobody I know of who has a pair can figure out why Scarpa NA is taking these out in favour of the Rebel Pro (which is a much, much warmer boot).
  12. Gamma MX Hoody or R1 + Houdini

    Stopped using my Gamma MX a couple of years ago as I just found it too warm. (Great jacket otherwise!) Patagonia Knifeblade is great - same fabric as Gamma MX (Polartec Power Shield Pro) but without the fleece backing. Amazing fit for climbing (though I don't have the new jacket version, yet) and good length. Another good option is Arcteryx Gamma SL Hybrid - lighter fabric, not as windproof, highly breathable, stretchy and fairly durable. Long enough it stays tucked in, too. For colder or windier days when using the Gamma SL, I will also bring a Gore-Tex Active shell - light (300g) but 100% wind and water proof. For mid-layers I use everything from Arcteryx Phase Zips (mostly SL and AR weights) as more light-weight pieces to Patagonia R1 and Piton Hybrid for very cold days. I'd also suggest you look at the new Polartec Alpha pieces (Westcomb, Montane, Mammut, a few others are using it) - I haven't used any yet, but the tech promises a lot, and the jackets I've seen are cut well for climbing and promise to be a one-item solution (insulation with protection and climbing comfort).
  13. New double/twins for ice

    Sterling Nano 9.2 is single and half certified. For ice, I've been using Sterling Photon 7.8 in 70 and they're phenomenal - they stay dry, don't fuzz, don't tangle much - for skinny ropes anyway. Had the Petzl Dragonfly 8.2, absolute crap. They had fuzzed and started soaking up water like a sponge after three routes. They also tangled like nothing I've ever seen before or since. Returned them. Curious to try the new Petzls (now made by Edelrid... coming spring '14) Mammut is always a good option, too - for ice I'd go Phoenix 8.0. Have used the Phoenix 8.0 and Genesis 8.5 extensively and would highly recommend either. Had Edelweiss 8.2s and they were quite good as well, though didn't stay as dry as the Sterling or Mammut ropes. There are some interesting options out there these days... say, a Mammut Serenity 8.7 with a Phoenix 8.0 gives you the option to climb on a single with a tag, or use them together as halfs or twins...
  14. Petzl sirocco helmet

    Been wearing / using my Sirocco all summer (well, since like June?). Absolutely no complaints other than the color. If you'd like to know more, I've put up a review on my site but it essentially boils down to the above statement: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/07/field-tested-petzl-sirocco/
  15. mountaineering boots

    There are as lot of options out there for a gaitered single (or double) boot. Lowa, Zamberlan, Scarpa, Sportiva, Mammut, Millet, Salewa all make at least one model. I have the new Phantom Guides and love them for everything from M9 to WI6. They're relatively light, warm and have proven to be quite durable despite a few extended Rockies talus scrambles. I'll happily use mine to -20 or so in the winter. I also think they're great for walking in and have done several approaches. The Phantom 6000 (again, new version) climbs almost as well as the Guide. It is considerably warmer (have been in mine at -30 or so and was toasty warm even on belay). Due to it being a double boot, it cannot be laced as tight as the Guide, which contributes to minor movement of my feet in the boots when really pushing off. That said I've still had them on M8's and Rockies WI6 without issue. As with many other pieces, buy the one that fits your feet best...
  16. FS: Alpinists & some gear

    Alpinist numbers 5, 8, 9, 10 (X), 11, 12, 38 $$ - make offers. Trades accepted. [img:gal:107752066c8fc2aa7]http://gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/uploads/usergals/2013/08/full-1077-1555-for_sale_3.jpg[/img] Gear: 4x DMM Alpha Pro biners - in very good shape, not used much at all - $5 each 2x BD Gridlock Screwlock biners - UNUSED, love these things, but got the Magentic versions - $10 each 1x Wild Country Rock #11 green - UNUSED, bought to replace lost DMM, but got my DMM now! - $7 [img:gal:107752066d32d2fca]http://gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/uploads/usergals/2013/08/full-1077-1556-for_sale_2.jpg[/img] E-mail raf at thealpinestart dot com
  17. Magnetron Carabiner

    I've been using one since November and have had no issues. No freezing, no dirt attraction, etc. I do prefer this design to other autolocking designs, especially the annoying lift-twist-pull triple actions.
  18. FS: Arcteryx NoZone 75

    In like-new condition, size Regular (18-21 inch back). Awesome pack, but I need something even bigger (apparently camera gear adds up quick!). Used on two trips last summer, once over the winter. Carries very well, light and spacious. It does include the top lid / pocket even though it's not in the photos. It is a bit dirty, but no scuff, etc. http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/NoZone75-1.jpg http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/NoZone75-2.jpg $200 plus shipping or $240 including shipping
  19. FS: Garage Cleaning Sale

    Clearing out the garage, time for a lot of stuff to go find a new home... Black Diamond C4 #4 cam, brand new, never placed - bought for a route, never used it - $50 Black Diamond C4 #0.75, lightly used, this is my second, replaced with X4 - $40 Fixe Alien Black, gently used, replaced with X4 - $50 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-1.jpg Ocun 120cm slings, Dyneema, 8mm, gently used, $7 Edelrid 60cm clings, Dyneema, 8mm, very gently used, $5 Petzl 60cm sling, Dynnema I think, 12mm, good shape, $5 Daisy-chains, $7 Dogbones, some lightly used, some brand new, $1 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-2.jpg Mammut Smart Alpine, used in great shape, $25 Petzl Tikka Plus, used, 100% functional, $10 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-3.jpg Assorted biners, some very used, some very new, $5 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-4.jpg BD Stainless Steel Flex Bars, brand new, $10 Sport Climbs in Rockies, 6th Edition, $20 Red Leather Bouldering Bucket, $10 File, $5 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-5.jpg BD Mercury MItts, Men's Medium, great shape, $50 OR Alpine Alibi II gloves, Men's Medium, very good shape, $100 BD Windpro Gloves, Men's Medium, great shape, come with free dog hair, $10 Petzl Belay Gloves, Men's Medium, very good shape, $15 OR StormTracker Gloves, Men's Medium, brand new, $40 Arcteryx Beta LT Glove, Women's Small, like new, $100 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-6.jpg La Sportiva Ganda Guide, size 43, used for a season, still lots of life, $120 La Sportiva Barracuda, size 41.5, excellent shape, $75 La Sportiva Mega, size 43, very good shape, $50 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-7.jpg BD Aspect harness, Men's Large, very good shape, one season old (30-ish days on ice & mixed), $40 BD Ice Screw-Ups, no issues, $10 http://www.thealpinestart.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FS_Garage-8.jpg Buyer pays shipping, or arranges pickup. All prices CDN or US. Please PM or reply here, thx... I should be able to check at least once a day.
  20. Blown out grommet on Batura

    That sucks, thanks for the update. They should last longer, imo. If the sole and outer are still in good shape, there is no way any of the inner components should be giving out.
  21. First Trad Rack!

    A few more thoughts: - DMM Wallnuts are nicer than the BD nuts, though a bit more expensive - I'd get C4's in 0.5 to 3 - I rarely use my .3 and the 4 isn't a common placement either - I'd go with either the new BD X4 or the Fixe Aliens over MasterCams - but I prefer cams with more flexibility - Camp Photon biners are awesome for draws - big but light - DMM Phantom biners come in cam-matching colors for your racking pleasure - Mammut slings have a sewn-over label over the sewn juncture, making them less snag-prone than any others I've seen (you'll need to see this to understand) - don't underestimate the importance of hexes, especially for alpine / winter mixed - I wouldn't double-up on anything until I knew what I really used a lot (C4's .75 to 2 in my case, and green and blue aliens) - depending where you are, some pins can be very useful - and if you get pins, don't get a hammer that's too light, or too heavy
  22. Please PM here, leave a post or e-mail rafal dot a at gmail dot com. Thanks! Cassin X-All Mountain tools, with X-Dry pommel and hex keys. In great shape, used for a few weeks but they're not my style. Picks have been gently touched up, and the shafts have some scratches from drytooling. Light, versatile tools. $320 obo 2x Camp Orbit dual-action autolockers (twist and pull). I've decided I like screwgates better. In very good shape. $7 each Outdoor Research StormTracker gloves, Men's Medium. Worn once for about 5 minutes, but my gut feeling about them being too big proved true. They're a Medium but they fit large. $60 obo Arcteryx Vertical SV gloves, Women's Small In very good shape, my wife has decided she doesn't like them. I'd keep them if my hands would fit inside! $150 obo Outdoor Research Alibi II gloves, Men's Medium Sticky-palm drytooling gloves, again, they're Medium but fit a bit large. One small nick on the right index finger, shown in photo. Not sure how it got there - snagged a sharp rock? $50 obo Black Diamond WindWeight gloves, Men's Medium Warm, windproof gloves that I find myself not using anymore. In good shape. $25 obo Arcteryx Venta LT gloves, Men's Medium Very good shape, don't fit me very well. Windproof, with a reinforced leather palm. $40 obo Petzl Belay gloves, Men's Medium Tough, durable, leather and synthetic gloves. Great shape, I haven't used these much. $20 obo