making your own quickdraws?

[beefcider]

I'm short on the QDs but have plenty of biners. I;m wondering if there is an expedient way to make QDs from pre-sewn slings or should I juts save the bucks and wait until I can afford a set of draws. I've heard that using webbing and the water knot doesn't produce very reliable results and should only be used in a pinch.

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by beefcider:

I'm short on the QDs but have plenty of biners. I;m wondering if there is an expedient way to make QDs from pre-sewn slings or should I juts save the bucks and wait until I can afford a set of draws. I've heard that using webbing and the water knot doesn't produce very reliable results and should only be used in a pinch.

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thats wrong, i use tied shoulder lengths as clipems all the time......though make sure to inspect your knot occasionally, maybe ill die from this practice though it hasnt happend yet...

someone correct me if i am wrong....

[David_Parker]

You can buy short sewn draws w/out carabiners. They even have a tight hole on one end so the biner doesn't flop around too much. They aren't very expensive, usually around $2.95 and often on sale for less.

[specialed]

quote:

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Originally posted by beefcider:

I'm short on the QDs but have plenty of biners. I;m wondering if there is an expedient way to make QDs from pre-sewn slings or should I juts save the bucks and wait until I can afford a set of draws. I've heard that using webbing and the water knot doesn't produce very reliable results and should only be used in a pinch.

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Expedient Way? put the friggin biners on the presewn slings and ta-dau you've got a quickdraw. I like to duct tape the ends of the sling togethor to pinch the biner so they don't rotate all over the fuckin place.

[Greg_W]

quote:

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Originally posted by erik:

thats wrong, i use tied shoulder lengths as clipems all the time......though make sure to inspect your knot occasionally, maybe ill die from this practice though it hasnt happend yet...

someone correct me if i am wrong....

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I do the same. Leaving a liberal (2-3") tail on your waterknot is a good pre-caution as well as checking the knots just as you would the rest of your gear prior to a climb. Using shoulder-length slings also gives the flexibility to extend them to reduce rope drag on wandering routes.

[specialed]

quote:

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Originally posted by Greg W:

I do the same. Leaving a liberal (2-3") tail on your waterknot is a good pre-caution as well as checking the knots just as you would the rest of your gear prior to a climb. Using shoulder-length slings also gives the flexibility to extend them to reduce rope drag on wandering routes.

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Y'all climb with swami belts and EB's too?

[Bronco]

I go into wrecking yards and buy old seatbelts to use with a tripple fishermans. very strong, but ya gotta check the knots some times.

[Greg_W]

quote:

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Originally posted by specialed:

Y'all climb with swami belts and EB's too?

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Only when it's too warm for the woolens and hobnails.

[IceIceBaby]

Maybe this will help

http://www.gunks.com/rock/rack_preload.htm

[pope]

quote:

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Originally posted by specialed:

Y'all climb with swami belts and EB's too?

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My harness is stronger than yours. I use 2-inch tubular wrapped twice around and secured with a water knot. I also tie the rope through my chalk-bag strap, which is 1-inch tubular with a bowline. I add commercial leg loops for anything over 5.12b.

[max]

This is just barely related and doesn't warant it's own topic...

A few days ago I made a new cordalette and was annoyed at not being able to effectively melt the frayed ends. My solution: P-Tex. The spectra/kevlar/what-ever the hell that stuff is wicked up a SMALL drop nicely and created a clean and compact "seal".

For the non-sliders: P-Tex is available at any decsent (ha ha) ski shop.______________________________________________I know it's only Wednesday, but that almost twice as close as monday!

[fern]

quote:

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Originally posted by max:

A few days ago I made a new cordalette and was annoyed at not being able to effectively melt the frayed ends. My solution: P-Tex.

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My solution: cloth hockey tape. Tape around cord BEFORE you cut it. Cut through the tape. Apply lighter to cut ends and let the tape catch on fire, wave it around for a coupla seconds to even out the melting on the cord, blow it out, peel off the charred tape, TA-DA! better job than even the store can do with the hot-knife.

[Charlie]

quote:

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Originally posted by IceIceBaby:

Maybe this will help

http://www.gunks.com/rock/rack_preload.htm

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perfect illustration- I was going to try to explain it, much easier w/ photo

[beefcider]

thanks to all for the infos and the useful link, I figured that sewn slings would work fine. I'm probably going to stay away from tying my own unless I'm in a pinch.

[MysticNacho]

quote:

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Originally posted by specialed:

Expedient Way? put the friggin biners on the presewn slings and ta-dau you've got a quickdraw. I like to duct tape the ends of the sling togethor to pinch the biner so they don't rotate all over the fuckin place.

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I like to use duct tape to connect the two biners instead of webbing. It's held all of my falls so far, and if it gets worn its really easy to replace. Webbing? Bah! Cordellete? Bah! If it moves and it shouldn't, duct tape is the answer! If it doesn't move and it should, WD40 baby!

[mtngrrrl]

I guess if you're just making quick draws and you want them to be short, then tying webbing loops may not seem that practical. But I'd hate for you to think that it's unsafe and only to be relied upon "in a pinch". A big loop o' webbing tied with a water knot with adequate tails is perfectly safe. Cheaper than sewn runners, too. Can you elaborate on why it would produce unreliable results? I'm very curious.

Another method to keep the biners from flopping around is to wrap a rubber band around the runner right below the biner. It's probably easier to remove than duct tape.

[genepires]

If you want to make your own draws but are concerned about the water knot coming untied, try using a double fishermans knot instead. After a good pull, that knot will never come undone. This is not a good knot if you think you will have to untie the knot to leave at rappels though so I don't bother with this knot on shoulder slings. But for short draws, this is the best knot to use.

[Bug]

The water knot is fine. Tape the tails if you want. I've used mostly tied slings and draws for a bug's life. Cheap, effective, and versitile for those vertical bushwhacks in the PacNW. I carry a few sewn supertape runners but I am not as rich as SpecialEd. That guy is rollin in the dough! If he wants it he just goes out and buys it.

[sobo]

I'm with erik, Greg W, and Bug on this one. And just when I thought I was getting rich (as specialed), I went and got married. Now I'm doomed to a life of tied slingage forever. Oh, the horror!

[specialed]

I'm not rich but pimping out Erik as a male prostitute does have its financial rewards. But I'd rather carry and fall on pre-sewn light weight and stronger (perlon?) slings than some hippy-ass tubular webbing from the 70's.

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by specialed:

I'm not rich but pimping out Erik as a male prostitute does have its financial rewards. But I'd rather carry and fall on pre-sewn light weight and stronger (perlon?) slings than some hippy-ass tubular webbing from the 70's.

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we all have weaknesses.......

[roger_johnson]

WOW! Sounds like Specialed has a deep seated problem with"hippie-ass" ways. There is noting wrong with tying slings, sewn slings are just another way for corporate greed to get your money. Kind of like all those versions of SUVs, its just transportation for Gods sake. Sure sleek design and a small improvement in strength really do not improve the usefulness of the q-draws. We used to call them hero loops, they could be tied around shallow pins or made into a q-draw. Because they are no longer called hero loops doesn't make them any less useful. Because they came from the "hippie-ass" era doesn't make them any less useful. "Friends" are a product of that era, "hippie-ass pieces of shit" you say? Try not to let your prejudices rule your life.

[rbw1966]

The rubber bands that they wrap around produce (broccoli comes to mind) works great for tightening the biners on the draws.

[Off_White]

Sewn slings & quickdraws are dandy for cragging & sport frigging, but I've found the ability to UNTIE your sling and retie it through or around something very useful for alpine routes, long climbs, descents or bailing out (not to suggest that anyone on this board would ever bail out). But that also reflects my old fart status, I remember when eb's were revolutionary and hip belays were state of the art...

[Dru]

you wanna melt spectra after you cut it?

HOTKNIFE!!

get the blowtorch out, get the knives redhot apply and SSSSSSSSSSSSSSS. you dont wanna sniff that smoke though.