Fall, and outlook to climbing

[pup_on_the_mountain]

[pun] This is a post about outlook towards climbing post a fall that occurred in Post Falls. So, post up. [/pun]

 

Last month (Oct 19) I took a nasty lead fall while climbing in Q'emlin Park in Post Falls, ID. In a nutshell, I had too much slack and not enough pro in, hitting the ground from about 24 ft. Surprisingly, I did not break or even tear anything. Having a helmet meant I escaped with a concussion, and sustained no serious injury to the noggin (I was knocked unconscious for a few (less than 5) minutes). I landed on my side, with my shoulder taking most of the impact. I sustained a grade II (mild) separation between my right collar-bone and the rotator cuff, and some bruises. Now I'm doing PT for the shoulder, and have some weird sleep patterns thanks to the head concussion, but am otherwise on the mend.

 

I don't clearly recall the events of the day (and a few days afterward), and probably will never get back all the details to memory. The picture I have is the one narrated by my climbing partners. To start with, I had not been climbing much the past few months. One alpine trip in August (Forbidden NR), and may be two or three days of cragging is all I managed to do since early May. So, I was rusty. The climb I fell on is called Open Book, and is rated 5.7 (trad). I had TR-ed it three times before, and in fact had also led it (without much trouble) once in the past. At the same time, it could be a much harder climb if one misses a few key holds/moves. This was the first climb of that day, but I somehow felt confident of leading it, and went for it. I put in one piece of pro ~11 ft up. Since I had to move right and climb up an overhang, I had a long runner for this piece. I struggled for a while to find another piece below the overhang, but was not successful. I was getting tired hanging on. I'm guessing about my thought process at that moment, but am pretty sure this is how things went. I remembered that there are places to get some big pieces (#2 camalot) above the overhang. If I somehow made the overhang, I'll be safe. So I gathered my juices (or whatever was left of it) and went for it, but did not make it. I had may be 8-9 ft of rope above the last (and only) piece, which had a 2 ft runner. My friend tried to take in as much rope as he could and locked up the belay, but given the long runner and the rope stretch, I hit the ground.

 

This is the picture looking up the route, showing my wife TR-ing it (in June). Blue x is where the piece was (roughly), and red x is about where I peeled from. In this picture, her feet are about 6-7 ft above the ground.

 

The partner who was belaying me feared a broken back and/or spinal cord injuries, and hence was trying the best to keep me still, while the other went for help (and eventually called 911). I regained consciousness within a few minutes, and even sat up on my own. Luckily, there was a fire station within a mile from the location, and the fire and rescue team was at the location within 15, at the most 20, minutes after I fell (which was around noon time). They did some preliminary tests to see if I had sustained any spinal cord injuries (or nervous damages/paralysis), which all turned out negative. Overall, they did a super-awesome job of immobilizing me on a stretcher, and keeping it flat while carrying me out on the rocky and steep trail, all real quickly and cleanly :tup: . All said and done, I was in the ER room of a Couer D'Alene hospital within several minutes after my fall. I was released from the hospital later that afternoon, under a heavy dose of hydrocodone. Ever since I regained consciousness after the fall, I was having short-term memory issues thanks to the head concussion. The narcotic painkiller did not help much either. I asked repeated, silly, questions such as "Where am I?", "Did I fall?!", and even announced that "I broke a bunch of bones!". These questions are quite unnerving to those attending to me, especially if they have not seen anything like that before. It took 2-3 days before I settled down a bit. I recovered well, though, and was back to work in three weeks.

 

 

This is the first fall I have taken on lead. I must mention that I have not tried to push my grades much at all over the few years I have been climbing (never led anything harder than 5.8 or WI4). Having had done this route earlier probably affected my decision-making on this day, in a negative way as it eventually turned out. I think I've learned a few tough lessons, and will be out of the game for a few months (at least), but I hope to get back to it. At the same time, I've never had the opportunity in past to reflect on the implications of such a fall, as I never had one myself. Further, ever since the fall, I've been getting non-stop advice from most of my near-and-dear ones and friends asking me to quit it all immediately.

 

One good outcome of the fall was that I made the press the week after! This is about the first time my name has appeared in a newspaper... hopefully the news will be better the next time.

 

 

 

I'm curious to know your experiences with such falls or other accidents while climbing, if you had any. Specifically, did it change your outlook or attitude towards climbing? Did it affect your climbing mentally at all? Did you tone down the grades of climbs you led/attempted? Or did you just dust your bum and move on? Did you train and climb harder after the accident instead?

[rob]

wow bala, great post. I'm glad you came out ok -- sounds like you were very lucky.

 

I've never had a bad fall on lead, and haven't ever pulled gear or hit anything, but even still -- a lead fall rattles me for quite a while. It reminds me that I'm not immune, and it reminds me of all the spots where I could have fallen and didn't have good gear. It makes me realize how many times I've pushed it and just got lucky.

 

I don't like feeling lucky, cause it's so unpredictable.

 

I know some people say if you're not falling you're not progressing. But, overall, I think I'd rather just not fall.

[jon]

There was a good thread here quite a long time ago about how accidents or close calls effect your climbing. It was pretty soon after I watched one of my friends take a 50+ foot groundfall and almost die. Both Wayne and Dru have had some big close calls from what I remember. I'll see if I can dig up the thread.

[G-spotter]

I'm curious to know your experiences with such falls or other accidents while climbing, if you had any. Specifically, did it change your outlook or attitude towards climbing? Did it affect your climbing mentally at all? Did you tone down the grades of climbs you led/attempted? Or did you just dust your bum and move on? Did you train and climb harder after the accident instead?

 

Ya I nearly fell off the Apron but caught a tree on the way down. No injuries but I took a couple of months off from rock climbing to think about stuff during which time I mostly hiked and scrambled. But I decided I love climbing so I started doing it again. I have climbed harder things since so I don't believe I toned it down afterwards overall.

 

My fall happened because I took some easy scrambling-off-the-top-of-the-climb moves for granted in wet conditions with sandals on. I try to be more aware of situations like this now. Probably there's plenty of other situations I miss though.

[Dannible]

I got hit by a big rock while rapping in the summer of 2007 and now have a hard time feeling good about climbing on loose rock (even if it's easy) and only in the last few weeks have been able to bring myself to climb more near my limits. Part of that is because I was in South America this summer and was sick when I was trying to go climbing, so I haven't had much of a chance to get back to it. I hope that by getting out a lot in the spring I'll be back up to par in the summer. Just take some time off and take it slow when you start up again. When your really ready you'll know.

[marc_leclerc]

Coming from a gym/sport climbing background I became used to falling on lead early on. I've taken many short falls up to about 20ft and am usually okay. I once caught my leg in the rope, flipped upside down, cut my leg right open, landed on my belayer and got dropped on my head on some rocks. I bandaged my leg and red-pointed route. I was a lot more careful with my leg/rope after that incident. I've taken a few trad falls and have glanced off a ledge or two, I have fallen backwards down slabs have pedulumed into corners. I have always been just a bit bruised or scraped and stopped for a couple days... I guess I accept falling as part of pushing my physical limits in climbing. I've never fallen in the alpine then again I've never lead near my limit in tricky, badly protected alpine terrain.....

[Dane]

In May I took my first fall in over 38 years of climbing that resulted in serious injury. Taken hundreds of falls doing trad rock.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/807945/1

 

Yesterday and 7 months later I did my first serious climb since then. Although I followed the entire climb. Climb turned out harder than expected so I turned down the hard leads. Knowing the chances of me falling off were pretty high at teh moment, I'd never intentionally go on a climb I couldn't lead within my own comfort level. This one caught me by surprize, but isn't that part of why we climb? Luckily for me my partner was up to the task of baby sitting me.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/853622/Re_TR_Dragontail_NE_Couloir_11#Post853622

 

While not nearly as strong or have the endurance that I use to have, I still have all the desire...on most days. I don't have the confidence I use to, but sometimes the desire is even more important that physical skills. Even confidence cna come back if you push yourself a bit.

 

I am now a lot more cautious. A lot more cautious. Once you realise that a 30' ground fall could easily kill you, it can easily chnage your mind set. I am still dealing with the aftermath of that fall and will be for some time if not forever. I use to solo up to 5.11, WI5 and some big walls roped and unroped alpine and rock on a fairly regular basis right up to the week before I fell off. I doubt any of that will ever happen again...mostly because I doubt I'll ever be strong enough (mentally or physically) again. My point? The mental part you can get back close to where you ended if you want it badly enough. Hang in there, you'll get what ever you want back in time. It just takes time.

 

 

[ivan]

falling makes you really evaluate whether you like climbing or not, eh? i've had a decent # of truly frightening things happen climbing, but either i'm so in love w/ the sport or stupid they haven't given me much pause.

 

there are safer things to do for sure

[denalidave]

For me, it can cut both ways. Many times I have taken a fall only to realize it is clean, and the gear is solid so I'm able to go back up with a clear head and finish the climb. That's not to say shit can't go wrong with a similar fall the next time up, but it is usually the fear of falling that is really holding me back from committing to the moves. My first lead ever, I was very young and went charging up and quickly got off route into 5.11 territory. when I was supposed to be leading a 5.7 or 5.8. I knew I was going to fall, and it wasn't long before I took about 30' pendulum and shattered my heel. The doc said I'd never run again but I was back climbing (and running) just a few months later. I certainly learned to respect my limitations from that incident but have had many close calls and a few injuries since then. I find myself far more cautious now than when I was young and single but that is probably true for most people even if they never get injured in a fall... Just comes with age and having a family.

[plexus]

Glad you're still with us to be making this post. Two days ago, almost peeled twice during a "scramble route". Wound up taking the hardest line each time I came to some technical climbing.

The first time I was about 20 feet up and my one foot, in approach shoes, blew and I could feel gravity trying to peel me off of the slightly overhanging section while on bad hands.

 

The next cliff section, had a foot hold crumble and nearly came off. It hasn't spooked me yet. But I remember years back a friend pulling gear and taking a screaming fall and stopping head down only a few feet off the deck after taking easily a 60-foot drop. That spooked me for a few months.

 

Sometimes different things trigger that fear or prudence. Next spring you might charge right back into it. Or climbing might lose its luster to you. Either way, you have to accept whichever road you go down.

 

 

[pindude]

Glad you're okay, Pup. Thanks for your story and openness.

 

I've always been more the cautious type, and even though I've climbed most of my life, I don't have nearly the climbing experience as Dane or many of you. I've taken 25-30 footers on rope, and some medium-ball bouldering dives, all luckily with minimal injuries if any at all. Always got back on the horse, but not necessarily immediately. I'm slowing down more with age (strength + flexibility), so find myself even more cautious, and climbing lesser grades.

 

Here's to you getting back on your horse and re-discovering all you love about climbing.

[justinp]

Don’t get me wrong, obviously glad you are alive. Lesson learned, shall we open it up for spray…

 

This was decked from the start. If your geeked why not except it and retreat, it’s cool to be metro these days. Looks like plenty of places to bust a nut below the overhang no? I’m kind of a linear thinker, but it seems silly to leave the earth without a good idea where your first few pieces are going. Everyone falls, sometimes a strawberry results in a lot jazz over some loose rock, other times it makes you think if you should get back to TR’in sevens..

 

[DPS]

Hi Bala,

 

I wish you a full and complete recovery. Glad you were not hurt more seriously.

 

Dan

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Thanks for the posts everyone.

 

If your geeked why not except it and retreat,

Thats what I should've done. Will remember next time. Having done enough routes at this level, and this particular route itself, gave me false confidence -- not good.

 

get back to TR’in sevens..

I hope to.

 

[Dane]

We got talking about this kind of stuff last night at a dinner party. Hadn't seen some of the folks in months so the topic came up.

 

Here is an observation. I got hurt because I wasn't really paying attention. Of course I could have put something in to keep my self from grounding out. Why I fell off shouldn't matter. Don't beat yourself up just do it better next time around.

 

Really fast cars and sport bikes require the same sort of attention. You watch and focus (or should to stay safe) while climbing and need to on a sport bike that will hit 180mph. Not really things you can do casually, You need to be alert and hyper aware at all times.

 

I forgot that and paid the price. Although not in great health now i am climbing again but I do pay close attention to every detail now....more that I ever have and I am more secure for it. And climbing just as hard.

 

Best wishes for a full and short recovery!

 

The best thing is you are still alive and can make a recovery.

Not everyone gets that chance again

[yesman]

Glad you're OK Bala - thought provoking!

[wayne]

I have done very few land dives. They all occurred when I was doing stupid shit. I have the peace of knowing that if I am not involved in such practices , I will probably be ok. The freak accidents are the ones that concern me.

It doesnt always work out that way though. I have a couple of friends that have not been the same since their falls.

[Choada_Boy]

Moral of the Story: Wear a helmet.

[ThorDog]

I have to say you are lucky! And having been there several different times over the years, I can say that I dusted my self off and kept climbing hard, but smarter, I hope! My first fall ended in a concusion. And wasn't very far 15' maybe, but I was 15 and healing was a breeze! My second was stupid on my part, a 50'er off Stone Mountain N.C. Last Dance 5.11+ X (1990 or so).. I had left my cams in the car and stood stoppers up vertically in a horiziontal crack that eventually petered out! There used to be an old pin in the end of the crack, that somebody pulled! Anyway I started down climbing a peeled, ripping my gear and hitting a ledge! I two made the paper. "Va Beach man falls off Stone Mtn and lives!" Then both ankles at City of Rocks, Idaho in 1999.. Much like your situation I had gear below me and pushed through a roof and didn't make it! Dropped about 40-50' and hit a dihedral breaking both ankles! My advice, watch your sh*t because this is a seriuos game we play! Especially right off the ground!! Hopefully I have learned from my falls and over the years the X rotes are not that apealing anymore! Thanks for sharing your story and I wish you well.

 

ThorDog

[goatboy]

Moral of the Story: Wear a helmet.

 

 

While I agree with the premise of wearing a helmet, i think this is a simplistic comment to a much more complex inquiry that Bala is making.

 

Maybe he was wearing a helmet, maybe not, but such a fall precipitates a more thoughtful response than this.

 

Bala -- I'm glad you're well and that you're pursuing input from your community regarding the collective experience in climbing after falls. I have had several and would be happy to share with you my process of returning to climbing if you like --- PM me at your convenience, - Steve

[Choada_Boy]

Moral of the Story: Wear a helmet.

 

While I agree with the premise of wearing a helmet, i think this is a simplistic comment to a much more complex inquiry that Bala is making.

 

 

I'll add more complexity, then: if he had not been wearing a helmet, he might not be here still, or his concussion would be something much more serious.

 

What a gift! Life! Live it!!!

[LostCamKenny]

Well said, DD!

[LostCamKenny]

While my worst fall has never included more vertical distance than 15 feet or any blown gear I do have a certain respect for the consequences of a fall - a fact with which every rock jockey must eventually come to terms. Falling is the ultimate outcome to avoid and you program your head (if you're smart) to accept that you COULD fall at anytime, but you tell yourself that you can make it. Honestly, Pup, if I was in your position I probably would have given it a go, too, if that makes you feel any better. The worst thing you can do post-falling (no matter what the results of the fall) is to fail to learn something from it. If you decide that you are more ok with risking a fall than you are with not climbing then you've learned that if you are to continue climbing you must take a better approach to evaluating the risks while in your present climbing condition. If, however, you decide that you are through climbing because the falling part and its consequences are too big a risk, then you have learned your personal limit. Either way an education occurs, but you shouldn't think that you are defined by whether you give it up or not. The most important thing in all of this is that you are still here talking about this.