RuMR Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 ...for you... could be onsight, could be worked, could be flashed, could've been a cruiser, could've been an asskicker (4 you)....whatever, let's hear 'em!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 The second pitch of Solar at Seneca Rocks, WV. I was 18 -- it was my first multi-pitch climb. I followed the route; the last move puts you on the very top of Seneca and I blown away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Sooooooo pumped leading this... I think it is the most pumped I have ever gotten with out actually falling off something... so pumped I kept running it out in between pieces (6 screws in 65 meters) because I figured if I stopped to place another screw I would literally fall off my tools (no leashes... was using a spring thing). I keep a fifi on my harness in the alpine... I grabbed it twice (@ ~35 and 45 meters) but couldnt bring myself to fifi in. I think Dave heard me at the belay telling myself to "climb your 70 meters and STFU!" When I finally said off belay I was very stoked/satisfied that I had hugged it out and it was Dave's lead next Hey Rudy: why is this in Spray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 The Split Pillar at Squamish. Ever since I saw it on the cover of Mountain magazine in the 80's I dreamed of climbing it. A more beautiful pitch is hard to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 Sooooooo pumped leading this... I think it is the most pumped I have ever gotten with out actually falling off something... so pumped I kept running it out in between pieces (6 screws in 65 meters) because I figured if I stopped to place another screw I would literally fall off my tools (no leashes... was using a spring thing). I keep a fifi on my harness in the alpine... I grabbed it twice (@ ~35 and 45 meters) but couldnt bring myself to fifi in. I think Dave heard me at the belay telling myself to "climb your 70 meters and STFU!" When I finally said off belay I was very stoked/satisfied that I had hugged it out and it was Dave's lead next Hey Rudy: why is this in Spray? hey John, If you noticed, all of the posts started by me have been "non-typical" spray...not my responses to the jerkoffs, but actual posts...i'm trying billcoe's method of recentering this bunghole site... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 for me, stern farmer was a good tick and a real awesome feeling...it was really weird, sometimes it felt really easy (but yet i'd mess sumpin' up) othertimes it felt sick...wasn't temp dependent...when i did it, i almost fell twice from a foot skid...broke my fingertip hanging on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Good idea dude but as a lot of people click the "Past 24 hours" link instead of the "Past 24 Hrs w/ Spray" link they might miss some of these good threads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 SHOULD I CREATE A NEW CLIMBING SPRAY ONLY FORUM????????????????$#(*%^&@#$(*%)^@#%*(&)@#(*$&@)(*#&$@(^#($!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 yer as bad as some of the regulars here (so am i)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 so porter...lets hear your most satisfying pitch ever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 two last pitches of SB on Prusik. and i was following! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 I don't think I could pick just one. I've had a few high points this year so far: The Sword. Metamorphosis (FA). Leave My Face Alone. Negatherion. Past alpine pitches: Stuart NR gendarme p2 at sunset. 5.9 pitch on E ridge Inspiration at sunset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 most satisfying lead was when i climbed my first 5.9 pitch at index: toxic shock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 i'm pretty satisfied with any pitch i finish. guess i'm just easy...that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hafilax Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 It wasn't much but the second pitch of Apron Strings is one of my fondest memories. I was totally pumped from seconding the first pitch and heading up that first dihedral was as hard as I've pushed myself. Running it out through the top was actually pretty fun. I'm not so proud of the rest of my climb up the Grand but hey, I made it to the top. Next time... RuMR, your signature is depressing. I do like the positive energy threads though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Another one for me: getting a TR burn on an Alex Lowe ice route Black Magic in Hyalite (not my picture!): It doesnt form every year so I was stoked to not only be in Hyalite when it was in but be with people strong enough to lead it! The route is 5.10 to the ice (it is a bunch of side pulls and hand jams so it is actually easier to rock climb than drytool) and then WI5 to top. Amazing and humbling considering Alex put it up in 1986 with plastic boots, quasars and leashes I think I hung like 2 or 3 times But yeah: huge grin on the hike out that day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Great pics John! WOW! For me, it may have been either a ice pitch that tried to form off Mt Emily one winter and we climbed it anyway with essentially no ice gear and single axe technique and lived. (the axe chips a hand-hold for your non-axe hand, then you slam the axe in, move your crampons up, chip out another handhold, move up etc etc) Or, trying the first free ascent of the Ground Zero crack on Beacon. I only jumped on it once. Hung 5 or 6 times at the crux, very tiring, but pulled it. The guy following me was a solid 5.12 onsight gear leader, and I had to pull him past the crux which was @ 160'-180' up when he finally gave up. Then later, after a key finger lock which had been filled with dirt got cleaned out, 2 of the best climbers in the state went out, broke the long single pitch I'd done up into 3 pitches and hung on all the "belays" while getting long rests, and took like 3 weeks + working it working it working it working it to claim the FFA. Very satisfying...to me. I know I could have sent it if I'd have more long runners and only had less rope drag. I suppose I should have adjusted my mentality as well, which was an onsight was a first free ascent. If you couldn't do that, then it wasn't pure so walk away. My how low I've sunk as I've aged! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Good thread choice Most satisfying Multi-pitch was Zebra-Zion I launched up it having successfully led maybe three 5.10a pitches. What a stellar top out as well ! Most Satisfying single pitch is probably Kunza Korner down at Smith. Sacked up and led it on sight having never been on a 5.10c outside Though Paul Maul, and Stems and Seeds are close on it's heels as far as satisfying pitchs go! How about scariest single pitch? For me it was definitely Crackmaster Lambada out at Vantage. The climbing was right at my upper limit at the time, and varied between awkward bulges with little cracks that took tiny nuts, and flaring broken pods that wouldn't take any gear. I don't remember having any gear that I actually trusted to catch a fall. I hit the top and just giggling that I hadn't pitched off and pulled all my gear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Roof pitch of Modern Home Environment in Blodgett. It was only 5.9 but I was the first ever on it so I didn't know how it would go. I was all geared up for a bunch of wingers 1500 ft off the deck but it went clean. Sweeeeet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Good thread choice Most satisfying Multi-pitch was Zebra-Zion I launched up it having successfully led maybe three 5.10a pitches. What a stellar top out as well ! Most Satisfying single pitch is probably Kunza Korner down at Smith. OK, changed my mind and it might be the same ones Selkirk just mentioned! Great routes! The other one that comes to mind is like the 18th or some damn thing on the Reg NW Face of 1/2 dome. Bobby comes up and it's his lead, but he got heat prostration. So I sit him down and tie him off cause he's out of it, and dehydrated as I was, with cramping fingers opened a can of peaches and fed them to him till he could do it himself as we sat on that ledge just below big sandy sharing the moment like brothers. (this may have been the most difficult thing ever to watch with a swollen tongue and dry mouth as he ate the whole damn can till I finally said, with my head pounding from dehydration myself -"last swallow of juice is mine!") He asked me to lead his pitch, what appears, from this wonderful and comfortable, and safe ledge, to be an wide fist or narrow OW crack (I hated OW even more then, now I only detest it ). Sh*t. We're really too high to get down off this thing in any reasonable shape. We're summiting or we're screwed. We had 1 piece that might have fit in that wide SOB on a good day at it's narrowest point, a #4 friend. So I jump on, or in, this thing anyway, 1200 feet off the deck, and my feet get great locks, AND in wondrous shock and surprise learn there's an invisible but bomber finger crack off to the side inside which you can wrap your fingers into and I run up this thing now totally confident and with no pro and no worries. Sweet! Maybe one of the more satisfying things ever. Learned to bring a topo along as well to learn what the easy pitches are beforehand, and not to cut a haulbag loose on a traverse cause you'll sure as shit lose a gallon of water when it explodes inside your pig :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Inadvertently combining the last two pitches of Centerfold at Index. The last bit of 10a at the top was protected by stacking nuts from the remnants of my very depleted rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 P2 of McTech Arete. The most strikingly beautiful line I've ever climbed. I did it a couple months after leading my first 5.10a and I remember it as one of the hardest leads I've ever done. I think I didn't hang, but don't quote me on that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 This climb Photo Finish ends with this pitch. I never really considered tunneling as an ascent tactic, but sitting with a pair of binoculars down on the Icefield Parkway I decided we needed a shovel to get to the summit. Sure enough after a couple traverse pitches it was either dig through to the summit or downclimb the face. Today after seeing Colin's pictures it ain't no big thing, but at the time to me it was a big fucking deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 "Your daddy must play the trumpet, because he sure made me horny!" Oh wait, wrong thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Where on Andromeda is Photo Finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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