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John Frieh


RuMR

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maybe you haven't met john - like more than a few folks 'roudn here, he comes off on the board a lot different than in person - what you shouldn't misunderstand is his enthusiasm and good-naturedness- the kid really, really likes to climb and is guilty of little more than being too zealous - he also takes the training thing crazy serious (but not so much he disdains climbing w/ the smoking/ho-ho eating crowd) which i think leads to a natural desire to have #s and times n' shit, which in lihgt of the whole iconoclastic nature of the enterprise, does look a tad silly. still - i like having john on the board and he earns his keep by actually posting tr's on a pretty regular business, building community by helping organize ice-comps, etc.

 

that said, if he badmouths beacon we might have to kill and eat him - i'm sure w/ all those burpees or whatevadafuck they're called, he'll make for good lean burgers :hcluv:

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my point is he completely sprays these little nuggets without any substantive weight behind him...

 

it is true, as he pointed out, that 5.13 is becoming commonplace; however, his wording (and i believe it to be on purpose) leaves the reader with the impression that NOLSe is climbing at this "moderate" standard. He may, or he may not be, and that is irrelevent...He should not be coy though...

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Oh Rudy... rough day @ work? What are you all butt hurt about? For all the shit you have given me over the years one would think you could take a joke every once in awhile... guess not! :wazup:

 

I used the 5.13 example to try and illustrate that standards have risen and therefore "what is moderate" does also... I'm not calling 5.13 moderate... but being that 5.13 is no longer cutting edge that also means that though some/all 5.10s are moderate IMO now a days 5.11+/12- could be considered "moderate" at least in some people's opinion... or as they say "your mileage may vary"

 

Personally I rather see a thread of "climbs one enjoyed"... I think those type of threads make cc a great resource

 

Hugs and kisses

Your all time favorite punching bag NOLSe

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john's bit was useful if for no other reason that moving forward the idea of what "moderate" means - so far i like dru's idea the most - moderate should still be, in the largest sense, the median type of climb defined as such - the whole "it's all relative" thing has of course been done to death, and so of course 5.12 is moderate to tommy caldwell, but he and his type are certainly big old outliers on the bell curve, no? today's moderate aint' that different from the moderate of 30 years ago...

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Seems like you can pretty much exempt most non-chossy, non R/X cragging routes that don't have a line at the base on a busy day from the statistical definition of moderate.

 

Seems like 5.11 sport, 5.10 trad, and WI4+ gets you there most of the time. I doubt that's changed all that much over the course of the past twenty years, since for most of us, leading at that level will require getting out consistently and keeping the climbing fitness at a fairly high level (for us).

 

For me at least, the time commitment associated with pushing my top-end clean lead grades higher than where they've topped out in the past - mid 11 sport, mid ten trad, WI4, V4 - would involve committing more time and energy to climbing than I have the time or inclination to put forth, since that would mean taking too much time away from other pursuits that I enjoy just as much.

 

Climbing is great, but there's a lot of other great stuff out there.

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he [John Frieh] also takes the training thing crazy serious (but not so much he disdains climbing w/ the smoking/ho-ho eating crowd) which i think leads to a natural desire to have #s and times n' shit

 

Oh shit! Now I see the problem, it is the ho-hos. Most everyone I know who cranks 5.13 and WI6 can crave a ho-ho now and then.

 

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fuggit...i hate my goddamn job...

 

I'm going to stick this out for the year, and then i'm going on sabbatical...i'm not kidding...

 

Oh, and bug, i finished that one project and just got tossed into a worse situation...FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUCK THIS>..

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