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AlpineMonkey

Banks Lake Ice

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whoever climbs on devil's punchbowl is either a complete moron or trying to commit suicide. witnessed today 30-40 ft dagger taking out entire bowl and snow slope below. don't go there till this shit falls off! the dust went as far as folly!

btw climbs near jameson lake looked the best, too bad we didn't scope them before the end of the day.

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Climbed this thing on the west side of banks today, around mile marker 3 (game reserve) Anybody know what it's called?

IMG_4854.jpg

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Any soft spots? He's got his boat with him!

 

I'm assuming the boat is for water on the lake, not for water on the climb.

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have the mighty death daggers been blown away at devils punch bowl yet? heading out there tomorrow.

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Great, we climbed Champagne and it is in great shape. Did not get as warm as yesterday. Will post some picthers as soon as my partner emails me them. Should be good tomorow. Going with a group to mess around with some lines by Lenore. Should be good farther north.DSC_0348.JPGDSC_0362.JPGDSC_0350.JPGDSC_0374.JPG

Edited by Paul_detrick

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Don't think it forms often enought to have a name. Was falling a part, and spiting rocks while we were there. Could have been fun when it was colder.

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Jens and I left Seattle at 6:00am this morning to go to Franklin Falls, but the pass conditions were OK so we continued on to Banks to get on either Champagne, Pepper and Salt, or Zenith. We got scooped at Champagne and Zenith, so we looked at Pepper and Salt and decided it was too much fucking around on a crappy rock start. We took a couple of laps on Trotsky's Follies, then headed back and did Champagne, catching John and Jeff Street coming out in the process. Conditions on both climbs were excellent; Champagne was really superb. As we drove back the pass report indicated a closure at 8:00 pm for avi control; we made it through at 7:50. All offramps, including the one to Franklin Falls, were closed due to avi hazard, so we wouldn't have been able to climb there anyway.

 

Not a bad day for having to change our plan so many times.

Edited by tvashtarkatena

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Pat & I found that climbs at Banks are definitely filling in and I-90 was surprisingly good today.

The unclimbed pencil a few feet right of Champagne was coming off the rock but would be awesome if it was a little colder and a guy had a pair of brush shears for the end. It'd be like the last pitch of mixed master.

 

Their looked to be a party that had rapped in to the uppper part of zentih to toprope it. The salt and pepper rock start looks mellow, just reeeaaaly time consuming.

 

 

 

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S&P:

1. rock approach is neither "soooo" nor "reeealy" slow ;), a very simple and short 5.0 traverse with 1-2 5.5 moves (overrating it to be sure), no drytooling. Use a few pitons (KB) for pro.

2. 60m rope - 2 60m halves - easily reaches the ground from the base of the ice column at the cave, with some rope to spare.

3. I'd approach to the bottom, gear up in the cave and walk up to the rock start.

 

The attraction on this route is a single pitch of good ice with lots of cool exposure.

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We played on this stuff right on Leanore lk. It was fun. Found this hugh wall.DSC_0474.JPG

 

How is the carabiner perpendicular with the ground?

 

Eric and I (well I attempted, eric climbed it) children of sunshine on park lake. Fun stuff.

 

Zenith looks really fat, too bad another group was on it.

Edited by kevino

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whoever got on Zenith today was lucky. That line was looking super good. Im jealous it was taken. Thats what you get for waking up late. children of the sun was super crappy ice, too much sun. But still fun.

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Climbed zenith last sunday. Attempted last couple of years, considerably better ice this year! Climbed far left, getting fairly wet but oh so worth it.

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Climbed this thing on the west side of banks today, around mile marker 3 (game reserve) Anybody know what it's called?

IMG_4854.jpg

 

This person is skiing across thin ice while towing a rubber raft. AWESOME!!!

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