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About Franko

  • Birthday 10/29/1946

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  1. I know we weren't the first to turn up the first, wrong, gully to the Tooth south face. I know because when you reach the point where it is obvious that you're in the wrong gully, there is a rap anchor with 3 slings; 1 pretty new, 1 middle aged, and 1 old. Thanks to whoever left the anchor. It allowed us to rap down & get up the correct gully with enough daylight left to climb. BTW, I found a metal bottle at the bottom of the face with what smells like gatorade in it. PM me if you want it back.
  2. Anyone tried the winter route after the snow is gone? Too brushy, or what?
  3. Bivy Front Virtually new. Tried it out one night on my deck, decided that it is not roomy enough for me. I'm 6'1", 240 lbs, & a restless sleeper. If you're smaller and/or don't toss & turn a lot, this bivy is lightweight & well liked by most reviewers. List is $275. You can find it on sale for $230 or so. Or you can have this one for $200. Shipping extra; UPS about $9, US Postal about $5. Payment by Pay Pal. Crysallis review Crysallis review
  4. Screamers spread the force out over time, thus reducing the peak momentary force applied to the screw. It's the same way that you spread the force out over time by partially applying the brakes on your car, vs standing on the pedal.
  5. http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/knots.htm
  6. Paul, have you looked at summer falls lately?
  7. I doubt a .22 would do much, but a 12 gauge with buckshot might work. I plan to give it a shot next week.
  8. I live on Bainbridge Island, but I want to get over to the desert for some ice climbing soon. Thinking of Banks Lake, Ancient Lake, etc. I prefer weekdays to avoid crowds, but weekends are OK too. Anyone interested PM me.
  9. It was. Thanks. What's your opinion of figger8's statement that 8 hours a day in a simulator will not make a difference? Spending a few extra days at altitude would be great, but I live at sea level and often am stuck climbing on the weekend. Altitude has never been a problem with me, which doesn't mean it won't be in the future, but I'm more concerned with my daughter, who wants to start going into the mountains with her dad. Since I don't know her reaction to altitude, and people have died from AMS on Rainier, I'm looking at options. Google led me to altitude simulator companies, which all seem to claim to make you ready to do K2 in a day, so I posted here get more knowledge.
  10. Everyone knows lots of stuff, or thinks they do. For example, I've been told that adaptation to altitude is different than just having good wind due to cardiovascular exercise. I've also been told the opposite. My own experience has supported the first theory. Some years ago I climbed Rainier with a group that included some pretty fit folks, including a marathon runner. At the time I trained by watching TV, smoking 2 packs of Kools a day, and living at sea level. I doubt that I could have run a quarter mile without stopping for breath. I was the only one of the group who did not feel sick once we got above camp Shurman, and was the only one who felt good enough to climb past the schrund to the top. Since the climb was part of an AMS experiment, we all ate the same food & drank lots of water, so whatever made the difference it wasn't cardiovascular fitness. If you look back at the posts you'll notice a variety of opinions, and nobody save mneagle has put forth any credentials. And I don't know what Layton posted; he's been on my ignore list for a long time.
  11. And you know this because?
  12. It does. Can you steer me to any urls that have more info?
  13. Have you used it to prepare for a high altitude climb, and was it effective?
  14. Anyone who actually knows what they're talking about have anything to share?
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