verticalswamp Posted July 4, 2001 Posted July 4, 2001 Joe Simpson tried shamelessly to pick up my wife for most of an evening in a bar in Whistler, but mostly because he thought the Cadillac was hers. Quote
Dru Posted July 4, 2001 Posted July 4, 2001 But he stopped when she told him she had a knife, right? Quote
verticalswamp Posted July 4, 2001 Posted July 4, 2001 Naah, but she mentioned she was a physio, and he got all respectful. Apparently physio saved his life or his leg or something. But he bought our drinks. Quote
willstrickland Posted July 5, 2001 Posted July 5, 2001 quote: Originally posted by erik: DEAN STEPH BOONE LEO HUBER Damn Erik, so close...only missed it by one, The correct list: Dean, Steph, Steven Jeffrey, Leo, Huber  Quote
erik Posted July 5, 2001 Posted July 5, 2001 sorry to disappoint will, not to much on the slc scene. the mormons scare me! though the desert is quite quite nice. so i will concede and only accept a 5pack of yo finest stout! Quote
Dwayner Posted July 5, 2001 Posted July 5, 2001 I once drank a sixer of Mickey's Big Mouth by myself in a JanSport tent like the ones Big Lou endorses. - Dwayner (P.S. I haven't heard of most of these people that many seem to think are famous. Sometime soon, when 'ol drunk Dwayner is back in his office, I think this whole concept of "fame", and how it is created, would be a worthy topic. Why? Because there are loads of folks doing amazing things out there, that would put some of these "names" to shame if they chose to advertise their accomplishments. Really! {I ain't one of them.] Quote
willstrickland Posted July 5, 2001 Posted July 5, 2001 But Dwayner, Were you naked in that tent? Big Lou would have been. You're right about the fame and advertising it. Anyone ever hear of Tait Rees? A Utah local, the guy freed Moonlight in one push...no falls, no "Yeah I freed it, redpointed the fourth pitch on the fifth try" stuff, just a start on the ground climb to the top without falling. There's a whole stack of folks in Utah that nobody's ever heard of that are climbing very hard stuff. Some 50 year old desert rats doing 5.12 trad routes in the desert onsight and even the Utah crowd hasn't heard of them. Some frenchy tradster in yosemite who would be a superstar in alot of scenes, onsighting Separate Reality, Astroman, the North Face of Rostrum, Alien, etc. Wanna get famous? Step by step guide: 1. Buddy up with a good photographer. 2. Rehearse on one hard sport route. 3. Get clean, bright clothes with prominent logos. 4. Wait till the light is perfect and get on the route. Shoot tons of film. 5. Submit the best pics to both the rags and the manufacturer's who's logos/shoes/etc you're sporting. 6. Now go bolt a ridiculously hard line somewhere remote. Make sure it's .14c or harder. 7. Aid up it to a high and scenic spot. 8. Shoot tons more film. 9. Submit to the rags again claiming a grade of 5.14 b/c or higher. 10. Say it's at a "secret" area. 11. Finally give directions to the crag to one strong climber when conditions are worst. 12. Revel in your new sponsorships/media worship. Quote
jon Posted July 6, 2001 Posted July 6, 2001 I briefly dated Jim Wickwire's niece in college. She wasn't much of a climber but .... Â Quote
Guest Posted July 6, 2001 Posted July 6, 2001 Exactly. I tag along with several climbers my senior who are unknown and can flash 5.11 and make it look easy. My goal is to absorb 1/10 of their knowledge and skill. Quote
nolanr Posted July 7, 2001 Author Posted July 7, 2001 Okay, time to bust out my Fred Beckey stories. These are second hand, but from reliable sources. Like any good Beckey story, they start out with "There was this grouchy old guy... My buddy and climbing partner was in Vancouver w/ his fiance at the time (now wife) at MEC checking out gear (40% off all merchandise for Americans--thanks Dru, that's a pretty cool country you got up there), and this scraggly old dude is hassling the employees. My friend looks at the dude, picks up a book by Beckey and looks at the picture on the back, seems like a match. So they ask him, and it is. Next thing you know the lecherous old coot has his arm around my buddy's woman and sez "How do you like my new girlfriend, she's pretty cute, huh?" I mean if you've been molested by Fred Beckey in a gear shop, you're really someone in the climbing community. Story #2. My bro got a permit to go up Whitney from the east side last year. On his way up, another party is going down. Bringing up the rear is...a grouchy old dude. Turns out it was Beckey, the reason he was grouchy is 'cause he couldn't hang on a 5.6 or 5.7 alpine route at 14K. And he's almost 80 years old. If any of us are even climbing still at that age it'll be a miracle. Quote
nolanr Posted December 18, 2001 Author Posted December 18, 2001 I shook the hand of a guy who knows Willie Unsoeld's son this weekend. I'm famous! Quote
Richard_Pumpington Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 I once took a crap that looked just like Sandy Hill-Pittman! Quote
mtngrrrl Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 my friend and i were trying to find the trail into "drapel", a crag in switzerland. after bushwacking for about an hour, we were about to give up when we spotted a climbing-looking couple walking up the hill. we caught them and asked them if they knew the way. the guy was really friendly and even recommended some routes after flipping through our photocopies from the guidebook. meanwhile, as i was checking them out, i thought the woman looked familiar. after walking with them for a while, it dawned on me that she was a climber featured in some of the photos in the book. turned out he was the author of the book, claude remy, out climbing with his wife, christine. not quite the same as asking beckey for directions, but it was cool at the time. i also met bobbi bensman at devil's lake, wisconsin of all places. Quote
specialed Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 we almost killed Sig Isaac, some Squamish badass dude, this October in the valley when my partner knocked off a dinnerplate rock onto his head. We also: hung out with Alex Huber at a belay, ate some of Leo Holding's "crisps", and ran into Bridwell at the base of El Cap. Quote
LUCKY Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 I'm old and fat and I ain't shit but I still get up shit [ 12-21-2001: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote
ScottP Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by nolanr: Okay, time to bust out my Fred Beckey stories....Passed Fred and a fine looking woman coming down from 3 O'Clock Rock. We got to the cars first and were just changing our shoes when Fred and the woman reach their car. First thing Fred does after taking off his pack is he gives this woman a big congratulatory hug and squeezes her butt cheeks. She pushes him away and slugs him in the chest. She seemed a bit pissed, but he was nonplussed. I got the evil eye from him a few years later when I skied past him on the way up to Muir, though I doubt my witnessing him being pummeled by a woman was the reason. Quote
erik Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 i know and have drank with dwayner and pope at the same time!!! and in my own little world i am god, so looks like i know the MAN himself!! -cheers to me!! Quote
ScottP Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 I shared dried bananas with Alan Steck and his woman friend as I belayed Rob on the Firecracker Roof at Donner Pass. I tried to get the recipe for the excellent bananas he offered, but Rob kept taking falls. He's a really nice guy. Quote
fredrogers Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 I denied Tom Hornbein a seat at a Conrad Anker presentation. I was saving it for my pops, honest. It just happened to be the last one in the auditorium. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 quote: Originally posted by fredrogers: I denied Tom Hornbein a seat at a Conrad Anker presentation. I was saving it for my pops, honest. It just happened to be the last one in the auditorium. Tom is the nicest dude around! You should be ashamed of yourself hehehehe. Quote
dharmabum Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 I met Ron Kauk in the bathroom in Yosemite. We had on the same t-shirt. I then saw Ed Webster bouldering, as I walked around drinking. I turned around to see Peter Croft waiting for me as I wasted time on the boulder he was apparently waiting to climb, and then again at his car. I got a little bit of fun made of me by Walt Shipley on Serenity Crack. (He knew my partner, and one of my closest climbing partners dated him for years). Tim Wilson laughed at me when I first got involved with climbing. We were at the Portland Mountain Guides Alliance training session, and I had bought the longest Petzl quickdraws. I had no idea what they were for. Quote
freeclimb9 Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 all those "famous" climbers are just folks. Ain't nothing close to being almost famous. It's just life. And ain't it a grand one. Enjoy Quote
Dwayner Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 Hey,pope! Tell 'em all that story about how you met Big Lou at the Whittaker bunkhouse last year. That was a good one; tell it again! IT DON'T GET ANY MORE FAMOUS THAN THAT!!! Quote
rat Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 my fine friend, crazy jz, and i met darryl hatton at the cliffside pub in squamish. he was having dinner (a big ol' steak) and sharing the table with peter croft, et. al. he told us, "i'm forty, look like i'm 50, and feel like i'm 60." i heard a rumor that he died of AIDS (dirty needles would be the likely scenario). rest in peace. Quote
Dru Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 Hatton has been dying for years but somehow he's still alive, barely. Quote
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