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dharmabum

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Everything posted by dharmabum

  1. At 12:32pm, cyber authorities responded to an accident at the southern face of the monitor. One techie injured his hand on a keyboard, and the incident required several support staff to set down their twinkies and strawberry milks and "see just what the hell was going on". it seems that some ne'er do well hoaxers were in the process of revealing the "new secret area", and simultaneously threw an effigy from the top of the monitor, which fell across the screen of cascadeclimbers, and laid at the bottom of the screen on the toolbar. the tape-wrapped rags were spotted by idle surfers just after twelve. response by local "authorities" was rapid, and we expect further continued ranting to continue until well after the holidays. Local climber, and anti spray advocate Dave Sowerby had this to say"Well this is joost wat A'id expec from a site lak this, did ah tell ye aboot my new fyve twelve". Your local ISP is reviewing the matter, but expressed concern that "this sort of asinine shit seems to be on the upswing."
  2. Yeah I know it's not climbing related... 10'0" Longboard, 50/50 Hansen by Cardiff, w/ leash. $300. Like brand spankin new...
  3. The crag.com is a hotbed of controversy on the ethics bbs. The most hysterical part is, the route in question is the most laughable example of innapropriate bolting possible.
  4. on the same note (single, seeking climbing chicks) I've been, uhm, this is hard to say....uhm, seriously thinking, I mean.....an idea, at least is....to uhm....you know...........to uh....JOIN THE MAZAMAS. There, I said it!! Have your way with me, you cruel internet sparayers!! I couldn't help it! I want to get laid, and go climbing...it was the best idea I could come up with....oh the humanity..
  5. Have to get in my two cents: Climb Max is the real deal. More gear than clothes. OMC sucks completely. There is maybe one guy in there worth talking to. Here's a good example: In 1990, while making $4/hr, I saved up enough to buy a full set of Friends & biners. I walk in the next day, the same guy that sold me the stuff is acting like he doesn't know me when I have a couple questions, and then the owner acts like it's a big goddamned deal to get me a block of chalk. I would sooner order everything mail order than give them my business again. Maybe if you're a West Hills hottie with d-cups looking for a four season North Face tent to take to the coast, it's the right place for you to shop. Anyone else could get better service at the DMV.
  6. Does anyone know what the conditions are at Static Point? Snow etc..
  7. thanks for the laughs. i have McGuyvered so much shit over the years, it isn't even funny. reading your posts made me burst out laughing out loud for the first time in a while.
  8. i wish you had not shown me this..... and i thought the porn was becoming a problem.
  9. Ive got a Jannd Zoor that I've been using for close to a decade. Two tool loops, minimal straps, fits rope rack etc, carries nice, retail is about $85.
  10. Hmm, see if you can pick the person who doesn't know what they're babbling about!! (HINT)It's not Caveman!
  11. any of the kevlar or spectra cords are fine. they are stiff enough to make the small and medium hexes easier to place. to fuse the ends, take the piece of cord you have cut (about 36"-40") and slide the sheath back on one end, exposing the core. cut about 1" off the core. now the sheath is about 1/2" too long on each end, and you can melt the sheath and seal the end. this will also make the cord easier to thread into the hex. on the larger size hexes you can fit the knot inside the hex to make it less bulky.
  12. Hey that ain't that Adamson guy is it?
  13. I use a construction hard hat. It was super cheap, OSHA approved for overhead impacts, it's light, needs no chin strap, and I have to wear one just like it everyday anyway. No it's not UIAA approved, but neither am I.
  14. Well I will probably head over to the Lutz about 8:30. I don't got no hair, an I ain't no Reedie. I'll probably be with another fella who ain't got no hair nuther, although he's got more'n me.
  15. How about the Lutz tavern, 45th and Woodstock?
  16. Im good with east side and downtown. No preference on particular pub, though.
  17. I was there in May two years ago, and there was a ton of snow. We tried to come in from Snowgrass, and we had to park 3 miles from the trailhead. The east side would be a better bet, but it would be a long ski if there was alot of snow. The area is gorgeous though, both approaches are nice. Conrad lake is a real pretty place to camp, but getting in there with snow could be a little tricky.
  18. I'd be into going to that, too. Wifes out of town, nuthin to do.
  19. I too have experienced all the negatives mentioned above. I was actually treated badly by a dick who worked at PRG and OMC, in both establishments. If you want to climb, and beat the price, Mt Hood Community College has a 22' rockwall, and it costs (I think) $1.50 to climb from 3-8:30 daily. There is a certain amount of BS to deal with there as well, as most of the "staff" are volunteers who have been belaying about an hour. It's attitude free, cheap, and a hell of a lot closer to East County. Also, if you know anyone who wants to get cheap instruction, MHCC offers a beginning, intermediate, and advanced course. They are $35 each. The Beg is 10 wks, Int is 5 wks with a two day field trip to Smith. The instructors have varying degrees of experience. Uhh, I should admit Im one of the instructors.
  20. I ran into the mountaineers at the tooth about two years ago. The weather was really iffy and a ton of snow, so we didn't expect to see anyone. Sure enough, here came this guy and a pretty hot chick on our tails. They swarmed up to us, and announced they were the first of a group of fifteen. Realising they were able to keep up with us because we were kicking steps, we let them go ahead. We stayed close on their heels, and then ran ahead and got on the route in the most childish way possible. The hot chick watched with barely muted disapproval as my partner pulled out our "vintage" looking rack and started up. She asked me a million patronising questions, and wanted to know why Cliff wasn't stopping at the anchor points. "End to end is how we run her" I said. Finally she said we were moving smooth and fast, and did we do a lot of this? "Yeah, but usually 5.10" (sort of a lie. those are our best days). There was a distinct change her demeanor then. We made the top in about 20 minutes, then waited two hours for them so we wouldn't have to rap down on them. After two hours we decided fuck it, and started down. To make a long story short, they divided the tooth into five pitches, The first a TR, the second a fixed line, the third a fixed line, the fourth a TR, and the hot chick was trying to psych up for the last little bit. There are statements that could be made about the quality of those anchors, but why kick somebody when theyre down? When we got to the bottom, there were about six of the most apprehensive people you've ever seen. Everybody had on their "summit pack" complete with ensolite pad, stove, and all that shit. I told a few of them that they should just leave all that crap, and they'd have a lot better time, but the brainwashing was so thorough, they wouldn't do it. Also, the fact that everybody (except the hot chick leader) had their name written on masking tape stuck on their helmet, made for some comedy. "Barbara, I haven't seen you in forever? How long have you been climbing?" etc. Here in Oregon we run into the mazamas a lot. When they ask us to take summit pics, we only take two kinds, top of heads and the sky, or all feet. Lord help the snotty club climber who leaves his camera out on the ground while he's up above. More than one person has a picture of an ass or cackenspiel that doesnt belong to them.
  21. I met Ron Kauk in the bathroom in Yosemite. We had on the same t-shirt. I then saw Ed Webster bouldering, as I walked around drinking. I turned around to see Peter Croft waiting for me as I wasted time on the boulder he was apparently waiting to climb, and then again at his car. I got a little bit of fun made of me by Walt Shipley on Serenity Crack. (He knew my partner, and one of my closest climbing partners dated him for years). Tim Wilson laughed at me when I first got involved with climbing. We were at the Portland Mountain Guides Alliance training session, and I had bought the longest Petzl quickdraws. I had no idea what they were for.
  22. If you replied to my last message to you, my inbox didn't get it. In fact, now it doesn't show the one message I did get. If you didn't respond cause Im bugging you, let me know. I am curious about more climbs in your area. Are you into sharing info? Did you get my message about A. Lks? Had you heard of those climbs before? Grade IV granite in the Wallowas? You've got my attention. E-mail me direct if you like, craigmond@hotmail.com
  23. Have you noticed the BD hexes you thread yourself are gone? Id like a set or partial set (4-9). If they were the really old swiss-cheese ones, even better. Also, I have a carbon fiber BRS X-15, and one of the red shaft (hammer) X-15s. Id like to find somebody with a BRS carbon fiber hammer to trade with, or even buy.
  24. I tried sending you a "personal private message" but I don't know if I got it right. Check your profile inbox and see if there's anything there.
  25. tree trimmer. you climb all the time, get a hell of a workout, improve tenacity, and the money is good. plus, you don't have any more trouble getting time off than you would in any other blue-collar job.
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